I have an RRM stage 1 setup that I bought used off of Vince (Guru_Del) with 15000 miles on it. I have put 8000 on it and finally got around to getting on the dyno. My results were pretty scary to be honest. My scanner is down too, so I can't scan, but I'll take a picture and post. Andy they only did one pull because they were nervous about it, and they still charged me the full price $120. Here's the synopsis

2700 RPM - 14.7 A/F
3000 RPM - 16.0 A/F
3200 RPM - off the chart (>18.0) A/F
4200 RPM - 17.75 A/F
4350 RPM - off the chart (>18.0) A/F
4500 RPM - 17.75 A/F
5000 RPM - 15.5 A/F
6000 RPM - 14.7 A/F

So, wtf is wrong with my setup? I'm guessing this is why my engine is sounding so funny, all kinds of ticking under the hood. Is the FMU adjustable? Could the FMU be bad? Could my ECU be messed up?

 

i don't see how you haven't blown up running that lean under boost at that high of an rpm, doesn't make sence.

 

Oh, maxed out 137hp and 145ft/lbs @4500 RPMs

Yeah, idk either. Wish I had a wideband right now so I could double check the readings.

 

u upgraded your fueling to go with the turbo? ... injectors, pump, fuel rail? ...fpr ? Have you been running your car hard hard all this time being lean like this?

 

Upgraded to 12:1 FMU and 190lph fuel pump. Injectors and fuel management don't go in till stage 2.

I've only punched it hard a handful of times, and I rarely push it for long periods of time. The funny thing is the car feels great when I reset the ECU, and that helped me pass emissions, but after a while the car feels like crap.

 

those numbers are RETARDED. there is something seriosuly wrong you need to go over everything again in your setup that is so very not right.

 

Well, if Auterra weren't a bunch of douchebags and sent me the right software I could double check it with a laptop dyno-pull, but they sent me the PDA software and not the Windows software. A$$hats.



Here's the Dynojet print out:

 

...obviously you're not getting fuel at load...u need to be very careful...get yourself a wideband af gauge...and make sure your injectors are not clogged or something...i think u need to upgrade your injectors...how much fuel are you running?

 

Maybe I could borrow someone's wideband locally and see what's what with the A/F, because I really can't afford to buy one right now.

 

can you afford a new motor? ...wideband is a wise and neccessary investment

boost-af-egt-oilpsi ...most important gauges

 

My credit card company can afford a new motor

I have boost/vac, EGT, and oil pressure right now. A/F is a waste unless you have wideband O2, which I can't really afford right now. The motor has what sounds like a bunch of valve chatter, but it has been doing that for some time now. I mean, the motor seems to be fine. How could you test to see if your pistons lost some chunks without pulling the head off?

 

Check to see what your spark plugs look like...
Sounds like your engine is knocking pretty bad, it wont last long like that


Edit: In fact hide your keys, because unless you feel like buying another engine don't drive your car another mile

 

The guy at the shop said it's not knocking, and I'm pretty sure he knows what knock sounds like.

Would having a CEL light for the first cat missing cause the ECU to lean things out?

 

i thought you had to run a 255 lph fuel pump with stage 1 and stage 2

 

no, if anything CEL will richen you up. My guess is the WBO2 they're using is fouled. You need to find another shop or just start doing this yourself. $120 is 40% of a Zeitronix with O2 bung 2-day shipped to you. And you could have been making runs all night with the Z.

Shouldn't the Stg 1 be pretty much plug-n-play? I would have expected a little lean: 12.5 or so, but your numbers aren't supported because you managed to drive your car home.