found out thru searchin the forums here that the clicking is normal, but can anyone help me on the settings for the spec 2? i like 10 psi but i know it aint good without the rite tune and new pistons and rods.

 

True, however as Senate has stated before it isnt neccessarily the amount of boost you run but rather the power you put out at the particular level. I personally am going to start a 5 psi and tune it good then work my way up one psi at a time which will give me a nice learning curve with little chance of destroying my engine.

 

Have you done any logging? I messed with mine a bit and screwed it up. Ended up with 10 counts of knock Back to the drawing board I guess...

 

Not sure if your talking to me or Josh lol. I have done lot of logging but I am still bone stock too. Senate is helping me make sure I am loggin the correct load (ECUload not load calc) load calc is tremendously influenced by what your injectors are scaled to in evoscan, I did some logging today with loadcalc (didnt realize I was supposed to log ecuload) and forgot the default is 513 for injector scaling and my loads were 260+ , I pulled off to the side and rescaled them to 232 and took off, my loads went from 260+ down to 101 max. I am running midgrade currently, and under hard acceleration (if there is such a thing with our stock setup lol) I still register knock counts of 8-11 on a stock tune. but I am starting to understand alot just from looking at my logs and seeing what the ecu does right after a knock is encountered. This tuning thing will hopefully come fairly easy for me Only time will tell though lol.

 

When knock is encountered, timing gets pulled in an effort to combat it.

 

^ So what is done to combat that?

 

so i bought a few things today.

1. full injen intake + upper and lower ic pipes
2. Greddy remote switch for boost controller
3. another push fan
4. ams t shirt

all in all about 600 bux. not too bad but still a nice chunk of change.

so with that note, in the next week i will have my ic pipes that i have now up for sale with all the couplers. just need an intercooler and you will be set for pipes.

and i was told to lower my set and set gain for the profec b spec 2, as for how much, i will have to play with and see.


josh

 

600? All new I'm guessing.

 

ya my visa account upped my limit so i figured it would be a good time to do some upgrades, and when i bought everything used, cept for like the turbo and stuff, i wanted some new parts that were mine to begin with

 

That's a reason I don't want another credit card/use the one I got last year. I know I'm going to pour money into the car

 

tell me about it. credit card companies have us all round their finger and as soon as we screw up, BAM, fees and overages. my capital one card raised my rate without notifying me, even though they said they did, which is a load of bs in my book.

back to the car...

i will make some adjustments to the greddy tmw to get my "boost under control"

current:
low...
set 50%
gain 5%
set gain 20
warning 70
w. limiter 10%

high...
set 100%
gain 5%
set gain 40
warning 75
w. limiter 10%



i think...
if i lower my set on the low side to 40% and my set gain to 10, and on the high side my set to 75% and set gain to 30, my boost should go down.

if anyone wants to take a crak at it here is the manual from greddy.
http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf


josh

 

When the ecu is told a knock has occurred it retards the timing to prevent the knock from continuing, in general the ecu pulls 1 degree of timing for every 3 counts of knock it encounters. Now basically when we tune to get rid of the knock is lower the timing in the particular load and rpm cell in ecuflash closes to the conditions in the particular log you are looking at. Basically you reprogram the ecu so it has already lowered the timing so next time the knock will not even occur. The ecu cannot stop knock all it can do is react once knock has been encountered

 

ok so with the above info that i "adjusted" today to the values, i hit a 13.3 psi on high!

then i had some bov flutter, and found out that i had melted the vacuum line from the bov to the fpr had melted!


josh

 

man this thing is tough! as soon as i figure it out there will be a tutorial i will put up for the greddy profec b spec 2 bc.

also anyone have an idea of what the engine is sposed to have for compression? bought a compression tester today and want to have a good rough estimate of where i am supposed to be.

josh

 

Usually at least 170+ psi with only about 5% +/- diff I believe between the cylinders