good point, I'll see, boost controllers are expensive for decent ones

 

just don't go greater than 12.5:1 afr

 

Complink: yes, stock internals

I'm using a hallman MBC and I haven't had any issues.
I think it was around $80-$90.

 

what about turning the boost down after you tune?

 

Sure but why?

 

sounds like your getting 1 psi of pressure drop from your turbo to the manifold, given thats where your boost gauge is taking its reading. It is very plausable that he has a 7 psi wastegate spring and only generates 6 psi at the IM, I would say its very acceptable. Evo owners don't notice it because we never run spring pressure.

 

just wondering

like if you wanna race at say 15psi but you dont u wanna daily drive it so you turn it down to 8psi to drive and back up to 15 to race.

 

you can do that but you need another map that you can reflash the ecu with.. or a standalone that will compinsate for the boost differences.

(so laptop in the car to change maps is the easy way to do that)

 

Exactly, if you went from 10 to 9, you'd run a bit rich but it wouldn't be a big deal. If you went from 15 to 8, it would run very rich.

 

Unless you have upgraded pistons and rods then I would just keep it at 6 or 7psi...Better to be safe then sorry

 

Not necessarily the case. You scan safely run 10-12psi as long as you have a proper tune. I've been running over 10psi for 2 years now on two different turbo setups. People have popped their motors on 6 or 7psi with no/bad tuning, so you're better safe than sorry point is moot. On our motors, the pistons/rods do not take well to bad tuning and boost.

 

i second this 100%

u can run 10-12psi on our motors safely with a good tune.. but if you tuned for say 7psi.. stick to that! or get retuned for higher boost if u want to run more..
anyhting over 9psi i do 100% suggest a decomp gasket and arp headstuds, because lifting the head is very possible.. and upgradeing them is EASY!!!!