HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

A lot of people (manufacturers and 03lances) have been putting flexible piping in a small section of the downpipe or extension to avoid breaking. Are you going to have this done? Also, if anyone else wants to chime in on what flex pipe they think should be used that would help, I hear the stuff at autozone is garbage and will leak very quickly after install.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

you dont need a flex pipe, what Im running is a stock downpipe, with the evo 8 downpipe bolts and springs, basically when your motor moves from the accelerator, the springs act a flex to prevent anything from breaking. You can always buy a flex pipe but if you want to stay the cheap route just do what I did. Either option is good

maverick31210

anyone have a pic of what the downpipe should look like after it has been welded/extended?

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

That's right, there are springs! So, when you cut it (since I'm lazy and haven't measured) do you cut before or after the 2 bolt locations? Like, do you cut just before the flange to extend or do you cut just before the bolts and extend. My hope was that I could actually make a second piece of pipe, kind of like a test pipe, and just put that in place. That way, the stock downpipe stays in tact and the cat stays in tact, so either can be replaced easily down theline.

I also want to put my wideband o2 bung there too, so that no matter if i replace the pipes, no more exhaust welding.

lofimind

Yes you can do that. And I'm also curious on the o2 bung part. I would think it would be ok.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

Ok I looked at tmy test pipe and its about 18 inches long so what does anyone suggest I need to do?

steven121

iTrader: (27)

hey does anyone know if any CEL lights come on when the turbo comes on? And if so where do the CEL eliminators need to go at?

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I had this same question. I would think the first o2 sensor would be fine, but the second one would complain, due to absence of the cat where the header now is. Aside from that, I think you'll get CEL's from a bad tune, too lean, too rich etc.

On the test pipe, maybe just get 2 flanges and a piece of pipe welded to the right length....and leave the test pipe in-tact, you could resell it or use it if you ever go back to stock.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

well heres the thing, I dont have a cat near the second one because I got it cut off? but im wondering if I remove the other cat will something go off? I just want to be prepared,

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

You're going to get "cat efficiency" errors I think, like....p0420 or whatever it is.

Also, you aren't going to pass inspection if they stick something in your tail pipe I don't think. Some places do, some dont.....in texas they do.

*edit* oh snap, you're in california right? I'd think you have no chance of passing there, don't they like "white glove" test the car out west? too worried about the trees and what not?

steven121

iTrader: (27)

im in texas, and all they do down here is just plug a computer to your car and run it just to see what they flow is etc... I got a friend that can do it so im not to worried I just dont want to run into any CEL errors because I have no second cat under the car and no CEL came on

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

If you run tephra's rom or my own for that matter the rear o2 can be "simulated" so it wont throw an error. However this doesn't fix the heater circuit which can easily be bypassed with a simple resister from radio shack.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

and by this what exactly is the heater circuit and where is this located?

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

Basically means you can't unplug the o2 sensor unless you use a resister since there are 2 circuits. One is the sensor itself which sends voltage and the other is the sensors heater circuit which as the name implies heats the element.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

So just a second bung though, and leave the stock o2 sensor in and it should be fine?