Demon_ni2

iTrader: (15)

Id agreed, Custom is really the way to go if u want something for a decent price and how you want it.. if u need simple and want something thats bolt-n-go, then a kit from rrm is ideal, but it will hurt your wallet. anyone that is able to put together there own kit and assemble it all themselfs will do much better with a custom kit, you can upgrade whatever you want and take it as serious, or as simple as you want it...(im on my 2nd setup now, and not many people can keep up with what i can put down to the wheels psi for psi)

maverick31210

it's looking like piecing a kit together is the way to go. i'm thinking if i'm having trouble finding something then i'll speak to the rrm guys.

looks like i have to read as many threads as possible and begin to make a list of the necessary parts. then as i have some money aside make purchases over time.

JRR

iTrader: (19)

luckilly i can weld and i am a certified welder at that, so i could and did fix my mani, but thats beside the point. any other company would have stood behind their product and not just said sorry!

check the link in my sig for evo parts that do fit out lancers. it will help alot and aide in your searching for parts.

my entire setup in my lancer i feel is a hybrid between rrm and a custom (now its leaning more towards custom with a few rrm parts unlike when i first did my build). i have quite a few rrm parts on my car, but the more you research the more you will learn.

maverick31210

so as I am doing some research, I am finding out that you need to tap the oil pan for the return line. is there a way to install the kit without having to tap the pan? epic failure or success depends on the size of that hole (no pun intended) and i'd rather not take that chance.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

No way around that one man, in the early days of this people thought about running in through the drain plug but this is BAD DO NOT DO THIS!!!!! You will have to tap the pan, dont worry its not nearly as hard as it may seem I was nervous about this too but found it was a piece of cake. I used this step drill bit just drill it through all the way so its a 3/4" hole
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ill-44460.html
Then I used this tap set to tap the hole
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-91395.html
You want to use the 1/2 npt tap (the biggest one in the kit) cant remember the barb fitting size I used but someone will chime in. Then you just wrap the barb fitting threads with teflon tape and thread the barb fitting in I have never leaked a drop of oil

turbolancer02

iTrader: (10)

1/2 npt to 5/8" hose , make sure you use hose rated for oil use and at least 300 degrees , the normal rubber line will break down from constant oil exposure

If you go with braided line do not use anything less then -10 an, for oil feed use a -4 with a 12mm banjo to -4an fitting and the stock banjo bolt

senate6268

iTrader: (20)

You can use -8AN for a return line over -10AN, if need be. AMS supplies a -8AN return line on all of their turbo kits, even on their huge 950R.

maverick31210

you guys are real helpful. to be honest, i'm not 100% sure as to what that means. i'm sure after some more research, what you guys just told me will make a lot more sense.

i was also thinking maybe going to see the guys at RRM to help with the oil pan tap.



p.s i just found out from another member through PMs that there is an oil filter sandwich type adapter?....does anyone have some more info regarding that option?

p.p.s will definitely be going with speedcorps for the manifold thanks guys!

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Yes I am using the sandwich adapter for my oil feed on my turbo, there are pics of it on my thread

maverick31210

so if i am understanding correctly, the adapter is the way around tapping the oil pan?

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Nope incorrect this is only used for oil feed line not the return, there honestly is no way around it. If your concerned with this part of the build I suggest to take your oil pan to a shop with your fitting and have them install it, I know others have done this I cant imagine they would charge very much to simply drill a hole and thread in the fitting

steven121

iTrader: (27)

Look on 03lances thread, what he means by tapping the oil pan is, look at your oil pan, there is a black box with a nut on the bottom and then that black box is connected to the aluminum pan holding it up to the motor, Im taking mine to a shop to get it done but what they do is they drill a hold on the silver aluminum part not the black part and they either will weld or thread on the return barb that is 5/8 of an inch on the silver oil pan part and all you do is get a rubber line as stated that can handle 300 degrees or more if you have to, and you connect the oil pan to the turbo and wallah theres your return line.

That piece you pointed out goes above your oil filter and you can use that to connect to your turbo for an oil feed, and oil pressure gauge to. I have the blue one even though I wanted a silver one but im not complaining I still like the color

JRR

iTrader: (19)

yes but also what about "false claims" such as:

fastest auto lancer?? rrm powered


now obviously its a customer car, but you cant go an make claims without backing them up.

my $.04 now

maverick31210

it's looking like when i get there I will take the pan in to get it done. only because it is such a small thing that can go very wrong and delay the process.

as for the RRM debate, i've met with those guys in person and had nothing but good vibes. but then again everyone's experience is not the same.

maverick31210

I found a DC Sports stainless cat-back exhaust on local craigslist. seller says it will fit 03 OZ,ES and LS. I asked him if it will fit an '02 ES as well. My question is if anyone knows what particular exhaust he might be referring to (he did not list a model name) and if said model will fit a 2002 ES. Lastly, will said exhaust mesh well with the future turbo I plan on installing?

thanks guys!


p.s: so after a little more research, i have learned that; tapping the pan is inevitable and i am looking into ways to have it done.

i am asking because the threads are a couple of years old, maybe by now some parts are being produced to address these issues.

1. also, i am reading some of the threads around here and it looks like most people had to do some grinding to get the exhaust manifold to clear the water line, is this problem addressed with the speedcorps manifold?

2. i also keep reading about having to extend the evo 8 DP 12" for it to fit......has there been a part made to address this as well.

again, sorry for all the questions. doing my best to understand by research. dont want to start spending dollars on parts until i know exactly what has to happen in my mind.