Hornstar had rpm controlled boost. Check his thread.

 

Oh sweet. ill look into that.

I should probably figure out this burning oil thing first. This is the first motor i have ever built and researching break in threads it sounds like i have done it all wrong.

I have used synthetic since the beginning. I think the first hundred was mobil 1. changed it at 100miles in town driving a little soft but not exactly granny. Then i changed it at around 500 miles with the new motor. Then at a thousand and used Royal purple 10-40. Im at around 2000 or so miles and still burning oil and making blue smoke. I lose about a quart every 1k miles.

After researching I see that you use conventional and get on it pretty hard from the get go. Hopefully im not at a loss of rings and a hone job here. Seems like it might be a little late to seat rings properly. Iv also been having a very rich cold start since the rebuild so i could be washing the walls. around 10-12afr till it warms a bit and goes into closed loop.

So when i get back from the nascar races in phoenix this weekend i will be draining the oil and putting some 10-30 conventional and hammering down on the throttle.

 

Just happened to run into this

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...t-control.html

 

Do you know if it's possible for us to do electonic boost control? I know the evos come with electronic controlled boost, but have you came across anyone that has done it on a lancer? I'd like to get a 3 port or 4 port solenoid, just wondering if there is a how to on it yet.

 

Nm, should have read back a cpl post before posting. Got excited after reading the link. Was just reading about this in dcsport magazine haha

 

Yeah the break in period is pretty critical. Are you getting fuel blowby into the crankcase? If so compression test, then leakdown test. Was the head new or from a junkyard or somethin? If not new, might be worn valve seals. From your previous posts, I can tell you know your way around the engine compartment, so I'm pretty sure you set the timing right, I was thinking maybe a damaged piston because that'll cause you to go through quite a bit of oil.

 

leakdown was ok. valve seals were leaking. i have some play in one of the valve guides as well so i might just buy a rebuilt head.

I have spent some time tuning it lately but once i get to around 16 psi i have to run negative timing to avoid knock... Im at -2 at peak torque which i can really feel losing a lot of power. i have to run negative timing basically from 2750rpm to 5000rpm to avoid knock. yes it is real knock i have det cans.

 

ok years later and still fighting this idle dip issue. However I have found out what is causing it or what will fix it. It doesn't make a whole not of sense tho. Out of frustration I reverted back to the factor injectors, factor maf, and factor ROM to see if the problem would persis, and it did but not quite as bad.

Then today I decided to unhook the forge wastegate actuator im using and see what happened. IT fixed it!! I was so excited then I realized wait... so what do i do now... it really doesnt make sense that this is working for others but not me.

So back to back i tested it with the wastegate hooked up and unhooked. with it hooked up it would nearly stall whenever i revved over 3or 4k rpms and let it stop, and you could kinda hear it backfire or choke up on the exhaust. Then I unhooked the wastegate and could rev it up however high i wanted and let it drop, and it would drop smoothly to its idle point with no dipping or exhaust farts at all. I did this back to back to confirm this. As i said i am using the forge wastegate.


I have searched to find topics on this but can't seem to find anywhere on any forum. The excessive back pressure is causing my engine to get backed up on its own exhaust... any ideas would be helpful. I really don't know where to go from here.

 

If you want, I could send you my rom and XML and let you start with that and adjust it. I had that same issue when I 1st went speed density. Now it drives really decent. Every once in awhile I'll get the rpms to drop but not too often. I think my main issue was a faulty alternator. Originally I adjusted all my idle rpms up like 300 over what they were. Seemed to fix it. But after changing the alternator. I decided to change all the values back and it's been running really decent still. I think the fluctuation in the volts was messing it up when I was downshifting

 

thanks but that wont help my problem. i know because i have tried. I've been tuning this thing for the last 3 years and could never get the problem tuned out. I have paid a professional to tune it and it cannot be tuned out. Like i said i changed everything back to stock for the most park except for the actual turbo on the car and the intake piping. Its a hardware issue not a software issue.

the wastegate is restricting the exhaust flow too much on decel out of gear.

 

Ive never had any idle issues on mine . Im on a 3 port using an Aem tru-boost , love the overboost feature !

 

ITS FIXED YES FINALLY YESSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE STRUGGLE IS OVER YEARS LATER YES YES YES! IM SO EXCITED!

it was a bov problem!!! when i put the kit together i purchased a "crushed" evo9 bov. turns out it was crushed so far that it took 25 units of vacuum to open the valve. I uncrushed it by welding a nut to the top and using a slide hammer to pull it back out. all fixed

 

yeah don't buy crushed BOV's...they crush them cause high boost pressure will help push them open...if you're only running 10psi, you won't have enough vacuum to open it properly...I use a 1g BOV.

 

Go big or go home!!! Buy a greddy bov not recirculating since i have my car turboed and never had a problem!

 

as long as your MAF is after the BOV (needs scaling, due to metering pressurized air), or if you run speed density, you can vent to atmosphere...otherwise you NEED to recirculate otherwise the car will run like ****...