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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

05 OZ turbo build

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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by burner67
the car will hardly idle when i set it to idle at 750. turning the stereo up to loud will make it drop rpm and die.

no matter where i set idle it will still dip way under where it is set.
I cant recall if your running the 440's? I've had my idle set at 1000 for almost 2 years now there is no way id be able to drop down to 750. Of course part of that is due to my car would rattle itself to death with my solid motor mounts
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #437  
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They were 440s but i had to uncap cuz they were making out at like 18psi. Anyways yeah mines been around 1k but it shouldnt be there. its loud, and uses more gas, generates more heat. plus the evos idle that low so it should be that way. not like i have cams or anything.

I tried to take a screenshot of the settings that mostly effect idle. will try to get an idle/dip/die log soon. LAWL

how can i upload the screen shot so it is clear? the file is to large.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 08:57 PM
  #438  
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Just an update guys... on the first of october i sent a rod thru the side of my oil pan. i was eating lunch in my car at work and hit the gas to hear her bounce off the 4,250 2 step limiter and right off the bat she blue up. i picked the bottom half of the rod off the ground and since then found the other half and piston smashed to pieced in the oil pan. Also found another bent rod when i pulled the rest of it apart.

I dropped the block off to get bored over and they said it would be about a month. i have already picked up a new crankshaft as mine was chewed up as well as a main cap since part of it got blown off as well. The best part is even after the rod shot out of the block and the other one was bent she was still running! i had to turn the key off to shut her down

If anyone has any of these parts listed below for sale please pm me.

4g94 oil pan
LF axle of quality brand.
lightweight flywheel
lightweight crank pulley
k1 or pauter connecting rods
forged pistons and or rings (probably .020 over)
aftermarket lowering or factory lancer oz or ralliart springs.
or coilover kit
stage 1 or 2 camshaft


Also a heads up i will have 2 piston/connecting rods for sale as well as kyb struts for front and rear if i decide to go coilover. Also have a stock 16g turbo i will sell. it has shaft play side to side and in and out. but will be a good core for upgrade or rebuild.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #439  
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I have an oil pan already tapped for return line. Also have tein lowering springs. For an es though I am thinking may not work for you.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #440  
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can u upload a pic of where its tapped? id like to get it welded in place.

unfortunately the springs wouldnt fit
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #441  
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ygpm
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #442  
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From: chatsworth
stg 1 cam here
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:10 AM
  #443  
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who makes it
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 10:38 PM
  #444  
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can't really find many options for crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. i have tried to search the forum pretty unsuccessfully. I have just been looking at the DNJ/ROCK products that rock auto sells. im pretty sure they are chinese parts but what other options would i have besides getting railed by mitsu
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 04:48 AM
  #445  
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im pretty sure you have, but did you try RPW?
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #446  
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they only show the acl thrust bearings for sale
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 11:20 PM
  #447  
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ok guys im in the middle of putting this motor back together. Yesterday i snapped a piston ring in half on my new ross pistons so i have to wait for that still. However i did put the other 3 rods/pistons in the block and the rod is hitting the exhaust side of the block wall. Has anyone talked about notching the block for these rods for some reason? I couldn't find anything on the k1 rods about clearance issues
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #448  
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ok here is a circled picture of where the rod is hitting. its hitting basically on the base of the rod where the bolt housing is. i know these rods are wider at the bearing area but i dont know if its too wide and i need to shave this or what is going on. any input would be great. i dont know what that spot is in the block must be some sort of oil port
Attached Thumbnails 05 OZ turbo build-img_20131215_092909.jpg  
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 12:18 PM
  #449  
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Yeah, iirc someone did have to notch their block for bigger rods. May be those exact ones actually. I think it was the guy who sold his block to Steven I think. It's been a while I can't remember who.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #450  
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well i guess it is what it is and will have to be done. im just not sure what that block is? im guessing coolant... i just don't want to go to far on it and ruin something. I also have the main cap and bearings installed already as well as the main seal and oil pump so i guess i will have to re-seal those again... great... just one thing after another with this.
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