time for one of those 300$ clutches, and 2 - 3 days down time.

um..3 things off the top of my head, diaphram cracked? check the line for a leak maybe? if its vac controlled, might not have any vac to it and thats just what it wants to run at when vented to atmosphere... Also.. check for a coupler poped.. i remember i had a few clamps go bad and i could still push boost with my intercooling piping leaking, just not much and it was consistant like your saying yours is.

 

no way 2-3 days?? what about a full 9am-10pm day that would have to be enough! also what do i need besides the clutch kit? the throw out bearing too? if anyone could link me to a good kit that can hold at least 270hp/torque or better that would be saweet. i have checked out a lot of act clutch kits but 4 or 6 puck full round disk idk whats best.

also it is holding boost fine at just about 6 psi... and it was fine being adjusted a few weeks ago. checked that wastegate gasket its fine. but maybe one of my hoses is messed up. i had the hose that goes to the wastegate sitting on the radiator for some time.

 

shoot senate a message. im sure he can give u an exact list of what u should do while its out.. just dont forget to replace ur rear main seal while u got it out, simple 9$ gasket

 

Act MB8-XTSS, good clutch and grabs mint at 12 psi. Closer to $400 but good to 330 ft ibs and has a good reputation as several turbo lancers have run it. As far as down time. If you get someone who is mechanically inclined in anyway one full day will be more than enough time. Took me 2 hours out and 3 back in by myself while checking to ensure nothing else was damaged.

 

thanks i will get one of those^^

man it was in the low 90s today and my car was overheating when i was just sitting there. the fans were fine but it almost got into the red area. i think i need a new radiator so im looking for an evo one. mine has most of the fins dented from the install lollollollol

 

umm.. try to burp ur system.. just saying.. normally thats the issue as long as u know the fans are actually working at 100% and are wired correctly.. the OEM radiator is normally better then most the aftermarket ones out there and hold more water also. if it isnt leaking, u dont need to replace it.

my oem radiator worked jsut fine and my t3 turbo and manifold were less then an inch from it.. i had 2x 10inch fans pushing and had no issues with staying below midline. and im in alabama.. its alot hotter here.

 

alright thanks i will give that a try but here is a picture of the fins to have a gander at

 

ive seen worse..

 

oh hmm. so to burp just pull the cap and let it run for a few and watch the levels right?

 

Yeah get the clutch 03 listed, we both have it. Its rated to 330. Clutch pedel will be heavy for a few days but after that feels close to stock. My only problem is how well it grabs + a light weight flywheel make me feel like i am learning how to drive a stick again . Ebay was the lowest price we both found.

 

hmm yeah i saw the one on ebay very reasonable with everything it comes with throwout bearing and such... but it says 02-05... and the 02/03 throwout bearings are different then 04/05

 

I doubt it really does come with the TOB, act shows a pic but it doesnt come with the clutch. Id only trust an OEM myself but your call.

 

also my temps have been under 200 since i burped it. but its been pretty cool tonight so ill see how hot she gets tomorrow

 

so i should probly order the release bearing and rear main seal from an online mitsu dealer? or should i just pick them up at a auto store like autozone? is there really gonna be a difference?

so Act MB8-XTSS/release bearing/main seal.... anything else thats worth putting in while im in there? flywheel?

 

resurface the flywheel if you don't get a lighter one.