nope

 

i removed it and there was no difference... im just going to leave it on.

 

From a diagram I'm looking at it just goes back into the intake manifold. It looks like you could even replace that part with a "T" for your gauges

 

Heres the diagram

 

My vacuum control valve also leaks. I did a boost leak test though and its the only thing. I still run 5-6 psi fine though.

 

nice diagram. yeah i just decided to cap it off. and i also just put zipties on all the hoses just to be sure nothin is leakin

 

how do you guys think this will effect the EGR?

 

I turned my egr off when I went sd 2.0...but I may kick it back on. How will this effect it? I dunno...personally I'd leave it all connected, cause its a slow leak and doesn't prevent me frm boosting

 

When vacuum is applied (controlled by the solenoid) the EGR valve will open.

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is opened by the ECU under certain engine load conditions to direct exhaust gas into the intake manifold which has the effect of reducing the combustion chamber temperatures and the Nitrous Oxides (NOx) produced by the combustion process is reduced.

actually i think i might leave the vacuum control valve on. it seems to play a key role involved with the EGR. I dont want to have high combustion temps and blow it outta the water.

 

Those "certain load conditions" are around cruising load, like rollin down the highway on the way to work, no rush, constant speed, etc....and it just reroutes some exhaust gas back through the intake, and increases timing some, because already burnt gas burns slower (like ****)....so having the EGR not open, will basically make your exhaust more harmful slightly, and your gas mileage slightly crappier.

 

ordered a boost controller should be at least 6psi soon. maybe 8. putting in injectors soon as well.

 

I keep saying "taking my injectors today!", and I never do. The place is right up the road that cleans them, and he said it'll take like 1 day to do....but I am so beat after work I never go by.

Anyway, I'm not running a mbc, I'm going to try and get a boost solenoid working....so you're gonna be high HP before me, and I've been at this **** a while! Heck, my SD 2.0 tune still needs a crap ton of work, so I'm looking at a serious lag time before I'm gonna run 12psi...oh, and I still need a clutch.

 

yeah man i seen your thread a lonnnnnggg time ago and your only at 6 :/ but anyways why do i keep knocking when i switch gears. probly normal right.?

 

normal-ish....it can be resolved a few ways. 1 think is raising the threshold some in the low range, and the other is making sure there isn't a large jump when you shift, so the initial punch timing is like 3 or whatever, ,and the WOT timing when you let off is 3, and then it's not a big jump....probably just changing the lower threshold though is what I will end up doing. Evo's don't even register anything under 160 up to like 3k or whatever it is.

 

alright ill tinker with that a bit. also when im trying to get more power and advance timing what is the best method?