05 OZ turbo build
heres a vid of my exhaust. sounds deeper then this but cell phone can pick up very low tones.
http://youtu.be/yp0i4atpzVk
http://youtu.be/yp0i4atpzVk
woooooo hooooo got the new clutch in now holds thru all the gears like a champ... not to mention eliminated a lot of knock. when i pulled the old disk i could shake it and hear it rattle.
im confused tho that sometimes the knock light will flash but evoscan wont register knock?? hmm
im confused tho that sometimes the knock light will flash but evoscan wont register knock?? hmm
knock light flashing and no knock registering is weird....you sure you're looking at the right log? did you change what was getting logged in evoscan and then not close out and open back up? If I adjust what gets logged, or move items around on the list, I have to close out and open it back up or the columns are all mixed up.
About that clutch...nice work. Did you do the install? What brand/type is it?
About that clutch...nice work. Did you do the install? What brand/type is it?
yeah i mean im logging in evoscan and my knock light will flash but i see no knock looking at evoscan.
its the act mb8-xtss ive never done a clutch before and got it done in 2.5 days by myself... i also did the rear main seal. also the sway bar endlinks broke so there was another $40 for those. they were rotted in place too they weren't easy to get out.
the clutch feels a lot snappier and heavier so far but it holds great thru all the gears at 12psi.
the hardest part of doing it was unbolting the rear motor mount from the trans. there is a bolt like right between the bushing and the block and no room to get it out so that took a few extra hours just to get that out and in.
the driver side axel was also very hard to remove because its in a tight space and hard to get a crow bar to it.
oh and i plan on window welding my front motor mount because i get wheel hop and it is very annoying so i will do that soon.
also my car tends to overheat after just sitting a few minutes after fully warmed up
wth
its the act mb8-xtss ive never done a clutch before and got it done in 2.5 days by myself... i also did the rear main seal. also the sway bar endlinks broke so there was another $40 for those. they were rotted in place too they weren't easy to get out.
the clutch feels a lot snappier and heavier so far but it holds great thru all the gears at 12psi.
the hardest part of doing it was unbolting the rear motor mount from the trans. there is a bolt like right between the bushing and the block and no room to get it out so that took a few extra hours just to get that out and in.
the driver side axel was also very hard to remove because its in a tight space and hard to get a crow bar to it.
oh and i plan on window welding my front motor mount because i get wheel hop and it is very annoying so i will do that soon.
also my car tends to overheat after just sitting a few minutes after fully warmed up
wth
overheating comes from not enough air flowing (fans or fan relay), not enough surface area (too small radiator or not enough fluid), water not moving (water pump), or heat leaking in (bad headgasket or cracked block, bad radiator cap can also cause same symptom).
My bet, check the fans, if you have 2, might need bigger. Also, check that you have fluid in the radiator.
My bet, check the fans, if you have 2, might need bigger. Also, check that you have fluid in the radiator.
radiator cap? Does it over heat if you push it hard? My dodge dakota overheated when I pushed it hard and turns out it was the radiator. I threw everything at it before "head gasket" popped in my mind LOL I didn't see oil in the coolant so I knew it couldn't be a head gasket.
Then it's lack of airflow across the fins. This is why I upgraded to the Zirgo 14" super wicked high flow aircraft sounding turbine fan.
Side note, might be too powerful, since the RPM's actually drop when it powers on and it sounds like I'm in a wind tunnel.....no, nevermind, no such thing as "too powerful"
Side note, might be too powerful, since the RPM's actually drop when it powers on and it sounds like I'm in a wind tunnel.....no, nevermind, no such thing as "too powerful"
still having this same problem.. whenever i take the car out of gear the rpms drop to 400-500 and almost dies and the afr goes from lean right when i pull it out to 10 and slowly climbs back to 14


