I knew it! It was Zulu. The K1's https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...747-cheap.html

And the Pauter Rods https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...used-rods.html

Apparently The Crower rods were the way to go https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...tons-rods.html

If you hunt around you may be able to find a pic where exactly and how he notched the block https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...-build-16.html

Good luck!

 

dang lol well i haven't seen any "crower" rods for sale so it looks like i got second best fitment wise... i would hate to have to notch the bottom of all 4 cylinders for the pauter rods efff that. so hopefully i can just notch this a tad and make it work. the sides of the connecting area of these rods are .147 or so wider on each side so it looks like an 8th inch should be fine as long as i dont make it thru the wall

thank you for all your links and info. I just would hate to be the only one with this issue, but it would be nice if the rod manufactures put this kind of info in the description so we dont get the block half together and run into this crap!

 

....great i just ground a small pinhole into whatever this piece is... my first guess is a water port but i hope its not...

 

Just an update everything is running fine. Burning a little oil thru the turbo i think. Also back to the tuning board which always sucks.

I am still having this one issue with the car where it drops rpms and shutters when i put an electrical load on at idle.

I have replaced the battery. replaced the alternator. the ISCV. i have tried adding more ground wires. i have searched and searched thru many forums trying ideas and things to get this gremlin out of my life.

The one thing i have not tried is to adjust the alternator map in the rom. I have seen it in the merlins tuning guide and read a couple threads on it but i can not figure out how to make it show up in my rom and its driving me insane. I have tried adding a xml table to the romedata xml definition but with no luck. my guess is because the addresses are wrong and i don't know for sure what im doing. i have made a new thread about it and there has been no replies.

it is here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...arge-maps.html

I tried creating a table definition from this thread with no luck. not that i really know how to: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...rrent-map.html

any insight would be great. or just how to create the table

 

So how did the pistons and block grinding go?

 

It went good. I just had to grind that once piece down i posted a picture of on the last page. like i stated i ground thru it and it created a hole but it ended up being a mounting hole for something. So i just found a set screw with the same threads and put it in there with RTV. turns out it's not even used on this car

 

Okay! Sweet man! That is good knowledge to have. So with new pistons and rods are we upping the boost?

 

yeah i plan on running 20lbs on my current setup. however like i said i need to figure this tune out. she seems to like it a bit rich which drives me nuts. I also need to pinpoint how im burning oil. im thinking its the turbo since my spark plugs look just fine. its like a quart every 1000 miles and i can make it smoke blue at idle. i have 2 evo 8 turbos and can't decide if i want to rebuild one or buy a evo9 or other turbo.

 

Man 20 pounds will be sick. Pave the way. I'll think you'll be the first reporting FI with forged. Good luck!

 

no i thought for sure there were many people running a set up like this??

 

Nah, not with rods and pistons. 02-es I think. That's the only one I recall. Demon maybe but he never completed the build. Zulu had it and never turned over the motor and sold it. Then it self destructed. But I'm pretty sure 20 is the highest we went.

 

i thought senate was. ill go for more if i can keep it down and maybe get maybe a gear controlled boost setup. I need to find out why im burning oil!

And i think im having heat soak issues because everytime i go out to tune i just tons of knock after its been ran a bit and idled when i look at the logs. Im basically 11.2 AFR thru most of the power band and at 1 degree timing at peak torque and it still had a knock or 2. And when i say 1 or 2 it means that i can actually hear the knock with my det cans but the ecu registers like 9 counts. Im sick of the knock sensor.

Also for the record merlin got me an xml with the alternator maps in it and i found out that the 500 and 750 column were set to 12% power for some reason. I set them to 100 like the rest of the cells and the problem is basically gone. wish i knew a way to log alternator demand or something.

 

I thought i already uploaded these pictures but couldn't find them anywhere in the last few pages of my thread here. Anyways here is my internals!

 

What a beauty! how much did those internals run you? Never heard of that company btw.

 

The K1 rods were $400 for the set. The Ross pistons were $700 which included wrings and pins