FYI If you ever decide to pull your transmission be sure to get a 10 point flywheel bolt socket like this. Waiting on mine to come in. LOL


http://www.sears.com/cta-10-point-fl...SPM11586574619

 

what is that for?

 

Its a 10 point socket for the bolts on the flywheel. These bolts are the ones you get thru the small port on the bottom of the oil pan. A 8 point or 12 point socket wont work. I couldn't get a good grip and decided to order the 10 point socket.

 

dude, don't take those off...it'll ruin your flywheel...that is how the friction surface/mass of the flywheel is connected to the hub of the flywheel...removing those will throw the flywheel out of balance, and it will destroy your tranny if you try to use it again...

when you pull the tranny, the clutch and flywheel stays on the crankshaft...then you unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, the clutch disc just floats in between, and will just fall off if you're not careful...then you unbolt the flywheel from the crankshaft...

 

I have a light weight flywheel I'm installing. Don't those need to come off?

 

no point just pull the flywheel off by the bolts that hold it to the crackshaft

 

Ok so with a new flywheel I only need the bolts in the front of the flywheel. Not the back side? I'm dropping in a fidanza light weight flywheel.

 

yeah those bolts, if you could even get them out, should not be removed...even if you're upgrading there's no sense in destroying a perfectly good flywheel...you could even sell it to someone to have as a spare...I keep a spare myself so I can have it resurfaced and ready to go, and change my clutch and throw the tranny back on in the same day...it's hard sometimes to get machine work done same-day...and I usually tear the car down on weekends when the machine shop is closed...

 

Nice. Ok I'll leave those bolts. I thought they needed to come out. Going to work on my car Tuesday after work.

 

nope, they don't and they shouldn't...drain the tranny, take the axles out, unplug the sensors, disconnect shift linkages, and clutch control lines, take the mounts off, and unbolt it from the block...comes right off. sort of

 

Thanks cranswick. For some reason the fsm mentioned those bolts so I assumed they needed to come off. I'll keep everyone posted Tuesday. If might take a couple of days after work. I'm not in a rush since I have my truck to take me to work.

 

Haven't put my clutch in. My back has been bugging me. I'm hoping to have my clutch in Thursday or Friday. Axles and everything else are off the car. I just need to drop the transmission and pull the stock flywheel. I also have a omni 4 bar map sensor in the mail.............. I'm hoping to go speed density in the future. I hear great things about it fixing idle issues, which I have. After the break in period on the clutch I'll try to get some dyno number from when I was a NA to now. I may have some tuning to do after the clutch install though. I noticed my load started getting lower as the clutch slipped more so I'm sure there are some load areas in the map that need tuning.

 

what idle issues are you having? speed density won't correct idle issues, it could actually make it worse...remember speed density tuning means removing the MAF all together, so there's no more closed loop, you actually need to map out idle and cruise, lol...

 

My only problem is idle. It use to run lean and then it started running rich. I'm not sure what's going on. I want to at least give SD a try. I'm glad I'll be able to log boost as well.

 

yeah, logging boost is a must-have...


one time I was idling lean...turns out I had an exhaust leak...