sub box q's
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Vancouver, WA
sub box q's
Ok, got a few questions now. I was reading the spec datasheet for the subs I am looking at getting. Phoenix Gold Octane ZR 10d4's. The datasheet says that for best SQ they should be placed in a box that is only .3 cubic ft. for a sealed enclosure. Does this sound small to anyone besides me? For a ported enclosure, they suggest a .8 cubic ft. box with a 3" x 10" port. That sounds a little more reasonable. Is there a preference over which type to use? or is it just listening preference?
As for making the box, does anyone have a calculation tool that they use? or some sort of formula that works well? I'm looking at doing the install myself, and have been reading how-to's and the like, would just like some input on these questions.
-Tyler-
As for making the box, does anyone have a calculation tool that they use? or some sort of formula that works well? I'm looking at doing the install myself, and have been reading how-to's and the like, would just like some input on these questions.
-Tyler-
well, the vas (volume of air having the same compliance as the suspension system of a driver.) seems to be 54.1 l which is 1.91 cu ft......depending on how you want your system to sound, i would build my box somewhere in this neighborhood...the lower the box size, the punchier/tighter it will sound, the bigger the size, the boomier/less responsive it will sound. There is no way i would build it to .3 cu ft...maybe 1.3 sealed and 1.8 ported, but i wouldnt go much smaller than that....especially with a 30 square inch port....thats a pretty large port for that small of a box IMO
Here's a handy dandy link that goes over a LOT of stuff regarding enclosure building. The first article lets you do calculations using the specs of the driver instead of going for just the recommended size. I found variance between the two when I did the calculations for my sub as well.
Originally Posted by ghostrider
Here's a handy dandy link that goes over a LOT of stuff regarding enclosure building. The first article lets you do calculations using the specs of the driver instead of going for just the recommended size. I found variance between the two when I did the calculations for my sub as well.
that is a nice little link.......but the tuning frequency of the box is more based on personal taste .......if you tune it to 24 hz like the program says, it will be a pretty quiet box...try somewhere in the 29-32 hz range
Last edited by vrrrm...psss; Nov 12, 2004 at 08:05 PM.
just to let you know do not hook up the leds to the amp where the lige would pulse when the sub goes off (i know it would look cool) cause that is what i did with mine and i blew both of them. hook up the leds to the trunk light or to the wire that goes form your battery to the amp.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Vancouver, WA
thanks for the response guys. I would probably tune it to 24hz, as I am planning on getting 3 of these subs and running them with 3 seperate amps (all subs in seperate spaces). Next weekend is when I am planning on making my purchase, Phoenix Gold is having a garage sale at their headquarters in Portland. I might try and pick up some extra stuff and sell it on here (and pass the savings on of course).
I agree, 24hz is way too low. The group delay or "muddyness" will be more pronounced and you have a higher risk of damaging the woofer. Make sure you have a good subsonic filter in your amp if your going to tune that low. i will bet that there will be a big impedance drop below your tuning frequency, causing the amp to put out more power below 24hz, probably clip and definitely make the woofer have too much excursion.
The lowest note produced by an instrument is around 43hz, the E string of a bass guitar. Synthesizers and Pipe organs can go lower, but if your not listening to that type of music it's pointless. Also remember your car is a fairly small chamber and has a transfer function that makes lower notes louder.
BTW, most pre fab boxes from JL, Rockford,MTX etc. are designed to roll off around 45hz and have Q around .9 or a little boomy.
The lowest note produced by an instrument is around 43hz, the E string of a bass guitar. Synthesizers and Pipe organs can go lower, but if your not listening to that type of music it's pointless. Also remember your car is a fairly small chamber and has a transfer function that makes lower notes louder.
BTW, most pre fab boxes from JL, Rockford,MTX etc. are designed to roll off around 45hz and have Q around .9 or a little boomy.
24 hz is way too low, like everybody said..look for around 30. Most non audiophiles can't even hear 24 hz.
I would go with sealed for the 10's... no ports no vents.
If PG is having a sale...why not grab a 15?
I would go with sealed for the 10's... no ports no vents.
If PG is having a sale...why not grab a 15?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,679
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From: Vancouver, WA
I'm not going for loudness, I'm going for accuracy, with 3 10's it'll be plenty loud on it's own.I was just going off of what the specs are on that datasheet I posted the link to. I figure that the manufacturer, especially PG, would know what they're talking about.
Originally Posted by twardOZRally
I'm not going for loudness, I'm going for accuracy, with 3 10's it'll be plenty loud on it's own.I was just going off of what the specs are on that datasheet I posted the link to. I figure that the manufacturer, especially PG, would know what they're talking about.
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