Alright, as you guys can see from my name, I know **** about car audio/video, and whatnot. I have to say that reverse does make it sound better in an enclosed container(trunk) But I dont think its just reverse that makes it sound "Louder" or whatever. It basically depends on what you have and who installs it . You get what you pay for - plain and simple. If you pay 500.00 for a system, you will get a system that puts out 500.00 worth. EQs, amps, subs, your trunk's layout all comes into play when it comes to "Rattling" or how deep/loud someone's bass actually is. My SPL is 157, with SQ presets on my EQs, now if I wanted to go all SPL I would push over 160 which makes it difficult to breathe, none the less, the point I am trying to make is, every little bit counts. I definately suggest dynomatting your trunk if you don't have a lot of money to get a custom layout. Sorry for the long reply but I think people expect to get a little too much out of a system they paid less than $1,000.00 for.

 

Check your trunk.... About after 2 weeks after installing my amp and subs i have to re-tighten all of the bolts and screws because they came loose.. and will keep doing sooo lol..

 

So yeah all this talk about phasing with rear fills and sub compression doesn't matter .. when if you are serious about sound quality you don't worry about it because you have built a sealed enclosure behind the rear fills (6X9s or whatever you have)...

 

This topic was not really started to talk about how to make your trunk boom................But rather how to keep your trunk's screws tight when you have the boom.....
We all like to have bass...,,.,.,.,.,...,....some of us just like to keep things tight with a lot of bass.

 

you can always take the screws out and coat them with loctite or any other thread sealant. then put them back in...they will never come out then from the bass...

 

OK. OK. My phat, sorry 'bout that. I kinda led the topic astray. So I guess its up to me to bring it back.

:superhero pose:

Dynamat, Cascade Audio Engineering, Brown Bread, FatMat, and Thunder Mat. They all make adhesive sheets for vibration absorption, and you can get them all off of http://www.ebay.com

Personally, I used Dynamat Xtreme, cuz I had the hook up at Best Buy. I don't recommend Dynamat Original, because it is tar based and smells like asphalt (YUCK). The last two are generic brands, which look pretty good, and are much cheaper than Dynamat, so they might be worth a look.

:clink::clink:

D

 

yea. ive had my system in my lancer for a while now, and i bump alot. but now when im on a long strip of road and i get up to like 75mph, the dash starts whistling or somthing. i think i need to dynamat...

 

Those little squeaks and peeps become annoying.
I generally associate hard bass with sealed enclosures and High wattage output on a good amp. This is the level of bass that will make your car come apart. However, I once met a guy that one 10" sub in his mustang GT. The thing sounded excellent but it didn't seem to have that earthshaking quality to it.......It was more like a deep "chest felt" type bass that you would normally find in a home theater system. Maybe this was all contributed by the enclosure style, but I'm not sure........
Do any of you audio guys out there have this kind of setup, I think this would be ideal in combination with some loctite and dynomat...

 

I had my whole trunk torn up down to metal, and I have fibreglass'd the whole entire trunk into a mold which I would lay my 3 subs, and rack my amps inside fibre too. The seal couldn't be any tighter, and I have no rattles, not even my TVs inside the car or in my trunk, or the dash, but just the mirrors vibrate. As far as a regular dual enclosure I had that before this setup, and I had some rattling but not a lot to where it got annoying. Honestly, I would take it to a professional and have them tell you how to set it up to prevent the rattling's annoyance. I just don't know what to really do, but of course dyno, and a tight enclosure goes a long way like some of the other had said.

 

that's what bass is supposed to be like. most likely he has a nice tight enclosure, and is supporting the sub with good, clean power. the sub is probably very accurate and efficient, which helps too. most of the problems that people experience with rattling is probably due to poor installations and setups. shoddy sub enclosures with air leaks, full volume causing amp to clip and produce unclean power and sound, and inefficient, inaccurate subs that are being pushed too hard and irradically by clipped signal. a good diagnosis could come from an aftermarket EQ that can determine if the signal is clipping or not. you can therefor adjust the bass or other frequencies to produce the best clean sound possible.