uhm my father is a pro installer. you're not the one who has to upgradte the alternator. the guy we went to said theres some kind of module thats usually built into the alternator, but on this car its built into the computer. so its kind of hard to find one if the guy you go to doesnt know that. but we found someone and its getting installed wednesday. ill post pics when its done not that any of you care since you've obviously been flaming on my dad when you probably arent ASE certified, you havent been install manager of the year a bunch of times, and you definately dont have 40 years+ of experience. so im going by what hes telling me, and he has done this so many times to so many cars and its turned out to work the best.

 

Ok, let's just put all the tension away in this thread.

Maybe your father is the best installer, it's probably just the way you were telling us "the formula is: bla bla" which is really not the right one. Maybe if you took the approach "well usually we use a formula that gives us an approximation of the current..." our opinion about you would have been better. It's just the arrogance you used for your defence that made up all this. If you read back to the firsts messages, cup was only telling that it was a huge amp which was special.

Anyhow, good luck finding your amp.

I think this thread may be closed

Etienne

 

they can delete it for all i care, i dont know why i started this post. i say i need a new alternator and you all post all this ****. someone whos post was right, you can never be right on this forum.

 

i said my peace, if you want to waste your money cause your dad says so, go ahead. no, i'm not ASE certified, but i have a BS in electrical engineering, a good knowledge of car audio, and common sense.

 

I suppose this reply is a little bit late; also pardon if anything was said before that I'm saying now, but I'm godamn lazy and I'm not reading all the crap you people posted Running a JL1000/1 and 2 300/2s would necessitate a 140-160A alternator with all probability Joka. Nothing wrong with 200A just make sure you're really putting all those Amps per hour to good use. I'm assuming that you will be driving around with your volume maxed out a lot when I say this. Good luck man take those pictures, and tell me how that thing does on the VAT-40 machine.

 

thanks 2wd. if anyone lives in florida theres a car show in daytona on march 22nd or some date around there. ill be there with my lancer and my system. im going to enter the car audio sound quality comp. im not sure if its a comp, might just be a regular show, should be a blast! (literally)

 

Oh yeah Joka whoever you spoke to at JL told you wrong. A JL 1000/1 Amplifier will draw no more than 80A of current at thats all the way up kid trust me I know(Blown up my fair share of JL woofers and amps)Also 300/2 amplifier will draw no more than 35A. The 1000/1 is fused at 100A and the 300/2s are fused at 40A each thats a total of 180 possible draw on your system which you will not meet without blowing fuses; also the only fuse you stand to blow is the fuse connected to your Monoblock amplifier, and that will only happen if you really push that thing. Have fun and take pictures many pictures