se a good etching primer and don't make it too smooth so the primer can bite and have good adhesion. I usually use high build primer after glass and save a few steps of filling, sanding, touchup fill , sanding...

A few braces glassed inside from baffle to rear wall is a good idea if the sub is heavy to stabilize and support the baffle to reduce flex.

 

I have to disagree with you Bill. Most etching primers are acid based and designed for metal use. A good primer/surfacer would work, or just regular high build. I wouldn't use etch primer on bondo (or any other plastic filler) because it will react badly and could cause problems later on. Just my .02

 

UPDATE:

i fiberglassed the passenger side and am in the process of adding layers to it. I also began work on the amp rack. i will post pictures later.

THANKS

 

sweet... good job

 

NEW PICS!!

 

looks awesome dude.. I have thought about doing one myself soon... just getting a plan together first.

 

WAIT! i couldnt help but read you are putting visonik subs in there?!?!?! why, thats like buying a 15 dollar intake for a ferrari. get some diamonds or something.... at least a reputable brand, plus visonic amps look like *** and are not made to show off, not an insult but yea

 

Lol thats just what i have laying around for now, not even sure if its really going to end up in there. Most likely will end up with either JL or Zapco. Also i will have more pictures this weekend of the passenger side, just been busy building enclosures for others right now.

THANKS

 

Hey, really good job. keep up the good work.

 

any updates?? get the other side done yet?

 

lancerchick,
I'm not sure if you're spray painting it by can or not. You're really not going to get the gloss that you could get with an automotive base and clear.

It seems like you've spent a lot of time sanding. It would be a shame if you didn't take the extra step for painting.

House of Kolor paints are very finicky. If you don't use everything HOK, then a lot of times the paint won't come out great. For example, if you use a primer and sealer of a different brand, then try and base it with HOK, it may get a little funky. The same applies with the clear.

If you are doing it by HOK spray can, I can only imagine the results. Spray can paint does not come out uniform.

What you can do to make it stand out a little more is when you have someone mix the paint for you, instead of having them mix the metallic that the paint code calls for, see if they have a courser metallic. It'll reflect the light a little better in the trunk.