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A little tuning help please?

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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #16  
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Without a doubt you'll need a wideband to adjust your AFR and idle. You will also NEED to log your wideband. To tune your maf basically put the car in open loop and match your "afr map" value to the widebands afr. It takes a lot of time but is worth it. I've been tuning my evo maf for the past 3 weeks almost daily. Try not to mess with the scaling but use the "compensation" to get your afr adjusted.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #17  
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Try to remember that adding compensation makes the afr richer. Lowering compensation makes it leaner. Going on a cruise and slowly gaining speed can get you a nice view of where you need to add or subtract from. I've found the cruise is probably the hardest to tune. There's a lot of values you're going thru from stop and go traffic. WOT is pretty easy.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #18  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...f-scratch.html


This has a lot of good info and helped me a lot. Luckily I didn't have to scale from scratch but just mess with compensation.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #19  
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Logs attached.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
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I've messed with my cruise compensation a little based on fuel trims and have had good luck so far. They were WAY off. Next week when I get paid I will be ordering my wideband.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:53 AM
  #21  
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I think I might have to scale from scratch since I am hitting over 100 load and I am lacking the turbo to actually do so...
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:20 AM
  #22  
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Looks like you get a lot of knock when you go WOT. Log the "knock voltage" next to "knock sum". Try to log these all next to each other (rpm, load, knock sum, knock voltage, air flow hz, afr map). It makes it easier to review and make quick changes. I'm not sure if the knock is real or phantom (fake). A wideband would make it easier to determine. You could be just dumping in fuel and thats what the knock is from. The knock looks like its just when you stab the throttle though. You should post a screen shot of your timing and fuel map. Do a stock pic and your modified.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #23  
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Also try to keep the logs short. When you do a wot pull start the log right before you do the pull and end it right before you let off the gas. It just makes it shorter and you know its a wot pull.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:29 AM
  #24  
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I've tuned out a lot of the partial throttle knock. I actually believe the WOT knock could be fuel related, although those are my first WOT logs. It hesitates a lot and then blows out a cloud of smoke, I'm guessing excess fuel. Let me get the pictures together for you. I'd like to do as much tuning as I can without the wideband. If I need to stay out of WOT until I get the wideband I will. Also, as I think about it... it would seem that I need to scale my whole MAF up, I have a rough idle with slightly high HZ values and I hit over 100 load.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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Here is a shot of my timing tables. Stock is the upper one and my modified one from those logs is the lower one. I have not touched my fueling with the exception of the MAF Compensation, which is different because of the 501 MAF anyways. I'm pretty sure the fueling is screwed up because of my cam too. I read that if you change cams you will probably need to change the compensation map quite a bit.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 01:00 PM
  #26  
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I do think its fuel related. When you got wot I see your afr map go from 14.7 to 12ish and thats when the knock kicks in. I also see it dip into the 11's which is way too rich for a NA car. Ideally you want to be around 12.5ish for NA. I would look into your fuel map and tune that next. Take a look at the area's its knocking using the "load" and "rpm" and tune those areas.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 03:27 PM
  #27  
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Definitely fuel related! I removed fuel from the area and the knock dropped a lot. The smoke also happened at a higher RPM and there was much less. I'm attaching a WOT log, let me know what you think. Once I get my wideband I'll be able to really dial it in.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:11 PM
  #28  
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Looking better. I would lean out those 11.4 afr to at least 12. Should run better. It's a bit rich above 3500 rpm in some areas. The "afr map" is what the ecu refers to in open loop or WOT pulls. You could probably use the afr map for now but definitely get a wideband. Just take your time.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jakermeister
I do think its fuel related. When you got wot I see your afr map go from 14.7 to 12ish and thats when the knock kicks in. I also see it dip into the 11's which is way too rich for a NA car. Ideally you want to be around 12.5ish for NA. I would look into your fuel map and tune that next. Take a look at the area's its knocking using the "load" and "rpm" and tune those areas.

N/A motor should be ok at 13 or higher AFR at WOT and high RPM. When I was N/A and tuned the lowest I logged was a 13.1....knocking at 12 AFR and almost no timing is very strange... is that a factory tune we're looking at?

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Aug 4, 2015 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 04:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
N/A motor should be ok at 13 or higher AFR at WOT and high RPM. When I was N/A and tuned the lowest I logged was a 13.1....knocking at 12 AFR and almost no timing is very strange... is that a factory tune we're looking at?
Yes, factory tune on the first page. The last post with the picture was a factory vs my current to get rid of part throttle knock. A few things to note:

1. I think it may be rich in a lot of areas causing even part throttle knock.
2. I am from WNY and we have harsh winters, so I'm guessing I have a tune kind to cold weather.
3. My mods which I will be putting in my sig sometime today: 4G93 cam, CAI, 501 MAF, and headers and full exhaust.

Next week I should be able to order my wideband and then I will know more, for now I am definitely running VERY rich at WOT. Enough to have caused a decent cloud of smoke.
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