dragunbayne

If it's worth it I'll do it! Is setting the open loop load the best way to force open loop?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

not sure about the best, but it is a way...like if you set the threshold really low.

dragunbayne

I thought it would be better than doing it by coolant temp. I know that throws codes. It's coming along well. Trims were totally wrong. My WOT is really good. Steady around 13.5 and for a fraction of a second it hits 12.4. Absolutely no knock so far either. Any pointers on tuning for open loop? Just want to be sure I'm going about it as best as possible.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

no knock at 13.5 AFR? you need to run more boost, or have a look at your ignition timing lol...

dragunbayne

I'm not boosted yet man, so I really do need to run more boost. My engine is most likely too tired for boost. So i will be buying a 4g94 or 4g64 to rebuild before i boost. For now I just want to get the most out of what I have and learn to tune.

dragunbayne

I'm getting closer with my fueling. Just need to get my cruising a little less lean, except around 30mph where it's a little rich. Then i will move on to my timing. Right now I have my timing set as a slightly more aggressive 4g93 map. Reason being theirs is smoother so it was easier to clean up. I know I can easily add a little more without knock. It's great not blowing a giant cloud of smoke anymore too!

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

oh yeah, right, jeez when I said your AFR was dipping in the 9's I assumed you were running boost, lol that is crazy rich, even for 20psi+. and what do you mean your engine is tired? I turbocharged mine at 190k km (118k mi) and I'm now at 250k km (155k mi) running 14psi. So far, so good...if you're getting a spare motor anyway, put the boost to it...lol


to get the most out of N/A, if you can keep that 13.5 AFR at WOT, and dip it smoothly into the high 12's by redline, and see how much timing you can run using the highest octane fuel that's affordable/accessible. you're on the right track, once you get your AFR dialed in, then start adding timing 1 degree at a time to every cell in the map that's above the conditions that would fall under "normal" driving, until that cell causes knock, then subtract a degree or two, and leave it, continue this until the top end is like that, and you should notice the "but dyno" improvements...then give it a month, and you'll feel like it lost power somehow...but you'll just be used to it...drive another familiar car that hasn't changed and you'll notice 13.7 second quarter miles feel slow to me now, plus I have a buddy with a low 11s to high 10s car running like 40psi boost, and I rode shotgun at the track a few times. that made my car feel like a prius...

dragunbayne

By tired I mean mine has 208,000 miles on it, although I have considered that it may run a small amount of boost. Yeah those 9s were happening from the stock fuel map! I'm glad I am on the right track. The car really does feel a lot better. By no means will it be "fast", but it sure feels good. As far as octane I am now running 93 which is easily available here in Western NY.

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

Glad to hear its coming along. If you can cruise in the rich area a while and log it, it will be easy to determine exactly which area you need to adjust on the MAF smoothing. Be sure to compare your wideband to your "afr map" but don't forget your fuel map when doing wot pulls. I found it easier to slowly increase the throttle to get those upper maf readings.

dragunbayne

I was thinking it may help to cruise in 4th to get to higher airflow levels to make adjustments easier. I've actually adjusted things a little so that I cruise in closed loop for the controlled lean setting it is giving me, but the moment load or throttle goes over cruise it goes open loop. It's working extremely well. WOT still needs more work for sure. I used the freeway on ramp so I could actually rev it up and it gets a little rich and still blows some smoke. It's hard where I am to get a chance to bring it up near red line, so I took the opportunity. It still dips to 12.1 which causes a small cloud of smoke, but it pulls really well.

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

Try the freeway during the night when its not so busy. Question: Does your wideband go back and forth when in closed loop? Typically it goes back and forth around 14.7, or it should when in closed loop.

dragunbayne

It indeed does go back and forth just not around 14.7. I'd guess it averages to 15.8...

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

We'll that's good. I think maybe your trims just need to be adjusted to get it around 14.7? My evo maf would just go lean and stay there while in closed loop. My stock maf acts normal though, even with my upgraded injectors.

dragunbayne

My trims are near perfect and it's still lean. The mornings are cooler now, but this afternoon while it was warm, I took a decent drive and closed loop was leaner after driving. I thought about putting my old MAF in with the bigger plate from the 501 since the electronics are supposed to be the same. I still wonder if my front O2 is bad and just reading wrong. I have had a few exhaust issues and been running rich in open loop with it in. I think I might be able to replace it under warranty, so it couldn't hurt. Thoughts?

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

Well if the trims are within +/-5 according to your logs then most likely its a exhaust leak before the wideband.