If you don't move ANYTHING then yes you can do it that way. But in the real world, this doesn't happen. You're fighting the valve springs, moving the cam gear to take up the slack, etc. Just use the marks. It's very simple as this is a SOHC motor. Crank pulley to the "T", cam gear mark aligned with the notch at 10 o'clock. Make sure there is NO SLACK on the right side. Let the tensioner pulley apply against the slack side, turn it over 720 degrees by hand (Crank passes the T twice), and recheck the marks. If ok, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to fix the tension.

The lancer is one of the easiest timing belts I've ever seen. They give you plenty of room on the front of the engine as well. It helps greatly to jack up the engine a bit from under the oil pan. The only obstructions are the power steering and alternator brackets which you have to remove. Just remember how they go back together and everything else in no big deal. The first time I did the t-belt on my Lancer it was a big relief- Most of the belts I do are on DOHC or even four cam motors where you have multiple gears that need to be in phase, with no slack in between. With the lancer just take your time and use the proper timing marks.

 

Yea I know if you know the marks its simple. I was under the impressions the marks were different, and just did a double read up to see, and found this. So I was just making sure. Everything does line up, except the belt is alittle lose, so i gatta hop back in their and make sure its tight. I dont have an air gun tho, i have to stick some pliers in my fly-wheel teeth to get it off, and thats no fun.

Im going to try and adjust it without taking the power steering pump off and whatnot, but we'll see. And thank you very much for the info, I feel a little better now.

"You're fighting the valve springs, moving the cam gear to take up the slack, etc."

What do you mean by that though? Besides manually turning the crank.

Edit:

And no tension, it doesnt really have any leway but is able to twist about 1/4 turn (same as all other belts), I would take it that is considered okay. When I put the belt in, and applied the tension, I had a friend with a pry bar apply the preassure to the tensioner, while I tightened the bolt. And it seems to be fine, just not sure, since its not the way you would say, but it seems to be okay, just worried about how i went about it.

Sorry if these questions seem self-explainable. Just like to make sure, and then double sure.

EDIT:

It runs fine now, no ticking, correct timing and everything. Although im getting this whiny sound, like it from the power steering, but i dont know. Very odd. Also, after slowing down, and comming to a stop it wants to drop the idle to about 500 than back up to 7-800. Like it wants to fail or die. Maybe running it for alil while will fix that, but the whiny sound, im not sure.

It have to do with the black and yellow lined ground wire that looks like it connects under the vaccum motor or whatever it is on the wheel well. I had things taken apart so long im not sure if it went to the pump, and if it does, where at. I just attatched it to the crank cover, as those bolts fit it well, but im thinking its the ground wire for the pump, thats why im getting that noise.

 

You overtightened the belt. That's what's causing the whining noise, I can guarantee it. Leave it and the belt will prematurely wear, as well as your new water pump. There is NO reason to pry against the tensioner. Simply loosening the tensioner center bolt and turning the engine over twice will apply the proper tension. Take it apart and tension it properly. I hope the damage has not already been done.

 

Yea, i re-tensioned it, with just a flat-head on the clip under the plastic cover before I started it, to make sure it wasnt to tight.(obviously i was wrong, i was just scared it would be to lose) Hoping to not screw anything up, but I will do that. And I truly appreciate your help man, its nice to know a place like this is around, with cool people like yourself

Ill loosen the bolt, and turn it over twice then tighten it and see how that goes.

If you feel the need to post again, what damage are you talkin about that soon? I can see the premature wear on those parts with it being to tight, not not sure whatcha mean.

 

If it was just a little tight, then there's no problem and as long as you've adjusted it you're good. If it was like crazy tight it may have caused some premature wear on the belt itself and the water pump bearing. I wouldn't worry about it though. Glad you got the job done, it's a nice feeling to know you just saved yourself hundreds of dollars.

Also for future reference see the attached image for the timing marks.


Also remember that timing belts should never be as tight as drive belts, this is why they have teeth. The only tension needed is to keep the belt from slapping around.

 

hey guys what do you think of this package

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timin...Q5fAccessories

 

Looks like the price is about par for anywhere. I prefer walk-in shops myself in case something is screwed up.

I'm in the middle of this job right now. So far taken 5 hours and I'm over halfway. My timing belt I took off at 89k miles looks flawless. Oh well. Probably take another 2 hours to get everything back together and all cleaned up.

Update: 8 hrs total to finish and clean up.

All I can add to the thread (I might have missed it if it's there) is to disconnect the power steering line at the PS pump or that metal line will be completely in the way the whole time.
Also a coolant flush is pretty much in the works when you take that water pump off, so have some fresh coolant on hand.
I bought a $40 electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight along with a $10 set of impact sockets. Took a few minutes, but took care of that pulley just fine.

 

I would follow Mitsubishi recommendations on most everything.. i would change the t-belt at 60k if i were u.. i did it at like. 65k.. and it cost ALOT more then 399..
ill do it myself when i get 120k.. but thats because im 100x more comfurtable working on my car now then i was 3 years ago...

i would also make sure at 60k that u get your transmission serviced like mitsubishi recommends.. (autos, flush and filter for sure, dont want to stretch those gears out with old fluids) and both serp belts also.. (recommended every 30k'i think')

we have interference motors.. so a belt breaking means by by head and thats not a good thing AT ALL