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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:23 PM
  #16  
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From: Orlando, Fl
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
You sound like you've thought about this a lot, and come to the decision that you don't want to spend a ton, but want some performance. I've also been on the same route, and let me tell you the most crucial advice out there. If you want power, turbo. If you want to spend money with not much else than a louder exhaust note...add bolt ons. You aren't ever going to say "wow, this thing is fast" unless you go turbo. If you know you're buying a ralliart, just save money for that. The money you spend will not be an investment, it will simply be spent, and gone.

I decided to go turbo, but my advice to you is just hold off, deal with the economy car as is, and wait for the big day when you step up to a stock turbo'd car.

I second that, the Contemplation will drive you insane. lol
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #17  
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From: South Central WI
Originally Posted by chucknasty
i would have to look into more, but i do believe the 4g64 swap is almost a drop on and motor by me cost $150, i don't know if they are that cheap by you but using that as a base : 4g64 - $150 + obx long tube header - $220 + intake cai $200 + custom 2.25" exhaust (trust me you don't need 2.5) $400 =$970 maybe a grand with shipping. Tune wise, i do not know who tunes the lancer ecu if it is different than an eclipse. But on average a tune can run you $300. So what do you have at the end of the day form this? $1300 to add about 20 horsepower tops. I will let you make the decision from there. I did this before with my old 4 cylinder eclipse, got it to run 16.1 in the quarter (auto) that is just as fast as a 6g72 eclipse auto with boltons. Oh, and never tuned it, stock ecu did a half decent job there.
yur also forgetting for him he also needs at least the bell housing from the trans to mount up with the engine. darkmitsu did his swap for about 1500 i think but then again if he dont want to do 1500 for a used turbo setup why would he do a 1500 engine swap for the minimal gains, unless even after that he does an evo head and a turbo...
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #18  
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From: DirtyJersey
What about these headers? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I'm scared the welds are cheap and just overall cheap.
Anyone have these?
Thoughts?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
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From: glen burnie, md
looks very similar to the one i have on the 4g64 eclipse now. those flow the best IMO BUT they are raspy so keep that in mind.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #20  
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From: DirtyJersey
alright, I guess I'll try them out in a bit
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by shirk
alright, I guess I'll try them out in a bit
I'm betting the noise will be increase but horsepower won't be quite so much. It doesn't seem like flow in and out of the 4g94 engine is much of a bottleneck, like with hondas.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #22  
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From: glen burnie, md
that is true. although a long tube design such as those will pretty much help you out all that a header can. only thing better than that is designing your own. A header on that motor i would say should increase power by about 5 or 6 in conjunction with a cold air intake and exhaust. The most important thing is the long tube helps the motor rev which is a downside with an auto. That is why is helps a bit more. the sorter ones are never worth buying since fed spec manifolds are pretty much the same thing (this appears to be the rule of thumb across all makes and models these days, 08 camry 4az-fe fed spec has a short tube header oem with stock 2.5" exhaust). Cali spec motors will always get more out of a header therefore. Remember that the header comes with it's own downpipe and you cannot use your own (the long secondaries go into one at the downpipe) so if you already have a high flow cat make sure it is a 2.25" (exhaust i.d. of new downpipe should be about this) maybe even 2" just have to measure it and have someone put it on. or take my route and go catless and pass emissions. after a good set of boltons, a tune will do wonders (think of it as a puzzle anda tune is the final piece). with your new parts you are leaning out your motor a little bit. this means in a tune you can throw a little more fuel in. bad mpg's? no. more efficient. yes. this will make it so you will less load to get moving therefore less gas and when you hammer it more power form a better afr. the tune with your boltons will add probably roudabout 10 hp (sounds low but your boltons together come to about 10 so essentially this will double it). I mean a tune without boltons has been proven these days (on some motors) to ave good results.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:20 AM
  #23  
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From: Missouri
Originally Posted by shirk
What about these headers? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I'm scared the welds are cheap and just overall cheap.
Anyone have these?
Thoughts?
I have that exact one on my car now. It's been on there since May and it's still strong...no cracks or problems at all.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 02:20 AM
  #24  
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From: SL,UT
Yah I m just going to be buying parts in bulk and selling them to afford a down payment on a RA and I ll be out of this car.
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