I really need to know the engine type of my car 2011 GTS/CVT 4b10? 4b11? or 4b12? I have no idea and if some on could explain all this to me... thanks. Im getting the alutec crank pulley by RPW and thinking about short intake by rrm,heads and a cat back system... any opinions on these mods?

 

4b12

 

alutec crank pulley is good.

for the intake get the takeda 4b12 intake
we have a group buy going on on 9glancers.com check it out...

for the exhaust i would get the greddy se not the one from RRM.

 

Is there reason for the greddy instead of RRM.. maybe personal bias? I'm not looking for a muffler swop but instead everything from the headers to the muffle i want replaced... maybe even a performance cat. converter????? newbie to tuning so help is needed. lol

 

you can go full exhaust but from my experience all that is needed for the NA lancer is an axle back exhaust and maybe a header.

but for intake for sure go injen Short ram intake OR the Takeda Short ram intake (preferred)

 

Do you have emissions testing in your area? If so, a full exhaust will need to include all the necessary emissions equipment (Cat, O2 sensors, etc.). Also, removing this stuff without replacing it with similar parts is generally not legal, so you may have a hard time finding a shop that will do it. Going with a cat back/axle back doesn't really provide any performance gains, just more noise. The CVT doesn't act like a normal engine, so check out you tube before you buy anything.

Intakes also provide minimal gains in these cars (around 5hp above 4k rpm) and mostly just add noise.

Not trying to kill your mod bug...just make sure you understand that a couple of bolt ons won't transform your car into something much faster than it currently is.

 

Ill be the first to admit this car can not be transformed into a 200whp car with simple bolt ons, I have owned a lancer since mid 2007 and have had a good amount of experience with the 2.0 and 2.4l engines (total of about 102k miles between the two engines (48k in the 2.0 and currently 54k in the 2.4l)

I have tested out (physically had on my car for at least 1 week) the RRM exhaust, greddy tic, hks exhaust and finally settled with the greddy se ( i was fortunate to be able to swap exhaust with some local friends)

Ive had 2 injen CAI (2.0/2.4l), custom 2.0 sri , k&n drop in, and now HKS drop in with ralliart intake duct (not much better than k&n , it flows more but filters less, i got it free so im trying it out).

The takeda 2.4l has proven to have good results with a couple of members posting on 9glancers.

When i installed my greddy se i definitely felt a difference in the top end (above 3500 rpm).

Pair the takeda intake, or any intake (even a hks hybrid drop in) with an axle back exhaust and a tune from RPW (racing performance works) and you will have some pretty decent gains.

I am on my 3rd version of tune from RPW and I must say its pretty impressive, no I dont have a dyno nor do I plan to get one anytime soon.

All I know is my gas mileage (highway driving) has increased and the overall power across the entire rpm range has improved significantly.


SloppyjGTS11 , here are my recommendations for a setup that I think you will enjoy.

-Greddy Se Axle Back Exhaust $400
-Takeda SRI 2.4l $250
-Alutec Pulley $175
-RPW Tune $92 will require you to run at least midgrade gas (89 octane, 93 for best results, i run 89)
-Tactrix 2.0 cable needed to read/write rom for tune $175-200
-Header $400

Also some light weight wheels will help, when you get new tires change to 225 45 18.
go at least 18x8 and stick with an offset above +40 unless you want to roll your rear fenders.

For a drop I recommend eibach pro kit 1.1" drop up front and 1" in the rear, its just enough to have a ride that not only handles great and looks great but isnt too harsh on your shocks/struts.
-will also help with your gas mileage as i definitely noticed an increase with highway driving.

 

I think the tune is the key to your gains. Without it, you probably wouldn't notice as much improvement. Do you have any concerns about your warranty should an issue come up?

 

I experienced gains well before the tune. I just started messing with the tuning aspect in october of 2010. All the mods ive tested/used/had on my car(s) were all without tune and i really had nothing bad to say about any of them, I just preferred one over the other.

Prior to the tune i felt gains with the exhaust and especially with the injen cai but sold it because i wanted a drop in with the ralliart intake duct instead.

The gains i feel now are much better than without tune that is for sure but a tune is not needed right away but if someone were on a budget and had to pick what order of things to get i would recommend.

Intake, exhaust, tune, pulley, header (only because beside the exhaust its the most $ part), lighter & wider wheels, 225 45 18 tires.

If an issue comes up, I can flash back to stock and the dealer will not know, Ive done it once when I took my car to get a tpms fixed (one stopped working) and they had no problem programming my car (through the obd2 with the mut-III tool) for the new sensor they installed.

 

Good choice, RRM one sucks
Good choice, awesome noise maker
Sure if you've got the extra money to blow
Prob lose HP lol

What he said.

 

tune breh, thats where you're gonna get your turtle powas

 

I understand this and I don't have any laws about emissions what I really want is my throttle response n my 0-60 to increase not so much top end.. Axle back sounds ideal after doing research but I can't stand ricer exhaust kits and I won't do anything to the ecu until 10yrs/60k miles

 

If I could have done it all over again it would not have gotten the CVT transmission... $15,000 mistake! Still got a great deal on the car though. Next purchase; EVO!!!