in case u dont now theres a screen in your maf sensor its kinda like a bee hive anywas theres been ppl smashing them out well that really dosent do anything cuz its just a little screen i got to looking at it and theres a little bezzel that holdes the screen in if u jently pry it up on the top and then go around it u can pop that of and the screen comes out but u also add about anothere 1 1/2 to the maf sensor doing this i added probly somewhere between 5 to 10 hp when u first do this it will seem as if its bogging out and it is but thats only cuz u made a drastec change to the intake (cuz u did) but ones the ecu notices and corectes whats going on its a huge diff + its free u probly wont notice much if any gains if u dont have a short ram intake or pipe i have bolt so im thats why i say this (in order for more air in u need to get more out)

 

isnt that "screen" crucial to the MAS?

 

Umm let me be the first one to tell you that the honeycomb thing you just removed is necessary for the ECU to correctly match the fuel with the air coming into the engine.

Put it back in unless you want to completely F..K your engine because the ECU is flying blind!!!!!!!

WADAD

 

whoever told u that is a moron thay dont make a hi flow maf sensor for a lancer but if u ever seen one for a chevy or ford thay all come with a honeycome thing in the maf from the factory and theres not a singal aftermarket one with it all a maf dose is sence how warm and humid the air is and tells the motor what air fule mixture to use i have a air fule sensor and its never been to lean sence i did this mod and if i have a 2 1/2" exaust frome the downpipe back and a short ram intake so yes maby without the right stuff like a pipe and/or intake u can screw stuf up so ur some what right but the maf sensor is setup for the car STOCK when u start messing with stuff like the exaust ur letting more air out wich can give u less backpresur so u need to get more air in so i gess if u dont mined taking a little risc and seeing if it works do it or just get a air fule gague and if its leans out after u do it u can put it back in

 

a stock MAS and an aftermarket MAS probably uses a different way to calculate the amount of gas it's going to need for the air coming in. there's different kinds of MAS sensors out there.

 

run a search on "karmann vortex" type mass air sensors. though certain logic programs are keeping your system working, removing the honeycomb just makes your ecu retarded. the gain isn't worth the trouble.

the only upgrade to these sensors are either from a larger displacement mitsubishi, or the ramchargers GM hotwire MAS conversion kit.

also, i'm sure this thread doesn't belong here. maybe US Lancer General.

 

the screen straightens the airflow that comes in. since the MAS sees how much air is going in by the velocity, if the air isnt coming in straight, it will register as the amount being less then it really is. the screen is there for a reason and it doesnt really cause much resistence at all. placebo effect if you ask me.

 

Come on people you are so ready to jump down some ones throat when they start talking about the MAS that you dont read what he is talking about. He was talking about taking off the bezel that is surrounding the honeycomb. Not the honeycomb.

It comes off easily enough, I did it last summer and it opens a hell of a lot more honeycomb for airflow. The problem with it is you now have a **** load of unaccounted for air. That bezel keeps the air directed over the sensor that counts to vortexes, with out it it is just air flying through with the computer not knowing that it needs to add fuel for this extra air.

I was not able to overcome the leanness from this with an AFC (which is part under dispute as always) you may be able to overcome it with higher fuel pressure. Talking with Rhyzin in the past and he has removed a significant amount of this bezel to let more air in. I am no longer interested in continuing this research as I have moved on but it may be worth looking in to.

 

i hope he was just talking about the bezel. he said something about "...and the screen comes out..." and you just sorta figure thats what he meant. the lack of punctuation makes it kind of hard.

and no, if you take off just the restrictor plate and leave the honeycomb, there's no chance in hell it's gonna run correctly. worse if you took out both the plate and honeycomb. it may still work, but your ecu is running "fuzzy" and not as precise. you definately run the risk of damaging the engine. the ecu can only allow +/-10% change in airflow. anywhere out of that range and the ecu cannot compensate. such a mod puts you WAY OUT of that range. i'd get numbers to prove it, but i would never run my engine like that again.

 

i had no MAS when i first installed my intake - ** b/c i forgot it, hehe silly me ** but like i noticed if i floored it the tires would actually spin, but now since its back in and i have more mods, and i floor it... the tires dont spin, its wierd. . . maybe its b/c its cold though?

 

DO NOT BY ANY MEANS remove the honeycomb filter. i did it and everything was f*d up! it seems good for about a week, then just goes bad. as soon as i got a new MAS, everything was perfect

 

lol ya i put it back within 2 huors after realizign how stupid i was

 

Write a little better so everyone can understand.

Chevy and Ford don't use karman since they use Hotwire. For any karman to read hotwire, you need a translator hardware and software like DSM'ers using the 3 inch GM MAF.

Pickleknock is correct on the honeycomb. W/o it, the turbulence from the airflow will be too much for the ECU to adjust properly.

As for the resistor plate, w/o some sort of AFC device, you'll never get it run properly. Since you aren't telling us the whole story, please don't tell me that you have somehow outsmarted Mitsu's engineers and their conservative performance perimeter within the ECU. I can guarantee that you'll encounter a CEL within 30 miles, a failsafe program for all OBD2 cars, especially cali spec emission.

 

And when you do post it, please use periods. It's cerfur II.

I personally wouldn't recommend this method of "tuning" as there's really no tuning involved. If the change is really drastic, keep in mind the ECU can only make corrections +/- 10%, and you may be pushing the limits of your ECU's ability to correct itself...if it even has a clue what it's doing.

 

i've read what everone has been saying and ask this: what if you combine the removal of the restrictor bezel with a piggyback ecu and afc?? would this potentially work since the piggyback or reflashed ecu and afc would have more potential tuning ability to match the fuel flow with the new air coming in or is the problem in the MAS sensor that it has an upper limit that when crossed goes all silly??