Warm up time
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Third rock.
You are correct!
When you first start your engine a large percentage of the oil is in the sump. It takes a short while for the oil pump to circulate the oil providing full lubrication. In a cold climate the oil may take longer to get where it is needed. There are other good reasons to be gentle with your engine until it reaches full operating temperature.
This told to me by an engine builder. When a cast-iron block is cold the cutting process is quite rapid. As the block heats it becomes very difficult to work. Your engine is harder when hot! This fits nicely with the practice of the serious racing world of pre heating their engines prior to start-up. They attach a machine to the engine that gets it up to operating temperature before they will even start it.
When you first start your engine a large percentage of the oil is in the sump. It takes a short while for the oil pump to circulate the oil providing full lubrication. In a cold climate the oil may take longer to get where it is needed. There are other good reasons to be gentle with your engine until it reaches full operating temperature.
This told to me by an engine builder. When a cast-iron block is cold the cutting process is quite rapid. As the block heats it becomes very difficult to work. Your engine is harder when hot! This fits nicely with the practice of the serious racing world of pre heating their engines prior to start-up. They attach a machine to the engine that gets it up to operating temperature before they will even start it.
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Kilorado
That's cool, not saying what the engine builder (??? where I'm from machines do that.) was a lie, but I don't believe that is why the engine idles like that.
The lancer comes with an optional heater block element, I believe with the ECU's these days it is simply the element engaged to warm it up. This may be because of oil not being distributed etc. etc. but the cause of the idle is not from oil in the sump.
My reasoning is because lately it's been 40 or 30 degrees out when I leave for work, today it was 52 at 7:00 am when I left and the car still jumped up to 2000 rpm and eased it's way off almost immediately, (By the time I had to turn a block and a half away it was idling at 1200 and the next time I stopped it was at it's normal 750)
I think it's really fun tho if you have to reverse and the engine is idling that high to just let the clutch out, the car drives itself
The lancer comes with an optional heater block element, I believe with the ECU's these days it is simply the element engaged to warm it up. This may be because of oil not being distributed etc. etc. but the cause of the idle is not from oil in the sump.
My reasoning is because lately it's been 40 or 30 degrees out when I leave for work, today it was 52 at 7:00 am when I left and the car still jumped up to 2000 rpm and eased it's way off almost immediately, (By the time I had to turn a block and a half away it was idling at 1200 and the next time I stopped it was at it's normal 750)
I think it's really fun tho if you have to reverse and the engine is idling that high to just let the clutch out, the car drives itself
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Third rock.
I stand corrected. As you so eloquently point out, the vast majority of today’s engines are built with minimal hand assembly. I was referring however to the relatively small number of performance engines that are still hand built by experienced professionals to exacting standards.
You are also correct in stating that this is not the reason for your engine running faster at start-up. Please appreciate that 52 degrees is still cold for an engine. At this temperature the fuel will not atomize optimally and running the engine faster makes it more stable. My point that you should allow an engine to warm up before hard use still stands and generally is accepted as wise.
And that ain’t no lie dude.
You are also correct in stating that this is not the reason for your engine running faster at start-up. Please appreciate that 52 degrees is still cold for an engine. At this temperature the fuel will not atomize optimally and running the engine faster makes it more stable. My point that you should allow an engine to warm up before hard use still stands and generally is accepted as wise.
And that ain’t no lie dude.
Trending Topics
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Raynham, MA
The rpms rise up to around 2k for fast idle to aid a cold start. When the engine is cold inside, the combustion process can be hindered by the cold "soaked" surfaces of the head, valves, cylinder walls, etc. In short, it can put the "fire" out.
If the ECU commanded a drop to normal idle rpm immediately after starting, the engine could run rough depending on how low the temperature is. Under extreme cold conditions, the engine would most likely stall or even misfire. The ECU commands a faster engine speed to insure that the engine runs and immediately begins to warm up the combustion chamber surfaces. There also could be a faster engine warm up / cat lightoff consideration as well.
The ECU would use sensor inputs to to determine if fast idle was needed on startup and for how long. Most likely, the water and air temperature values would be fed to the ECU and possibly others as it adjusts the fast idle sequence. A shop manual is what is needed here for the hard facts....
If the ECU commanded a drop to normal idle rpm immediately after starting, the engine could run rough depending on how low the temperature is. Under extreme cold conditions, the engine would most likely stall or even misfire. The ECU commands a faster engine speed to insure that the engine runs and immediately begins to warm up the combustion chamber surfaces. There also could be a faster engine warm up / cat lightoff consideration as well.
The ECU would use sensor inputs to to determine if fast idle was needed on startup and for how long. Most likely, the water and air temperature values would be fed to the ECU and possibly others as it adjusts the fast idle sequence. A shop manual is what is needed here for the hard facts....
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Third rock.
Originally posted by diesel_fan
The rpms rise up to around 2k for fast idle to aid a cold start. When the engine is cold inside, the combustion process can be hindered by the cold "soaked" surfaces of the head, valves, cylinder walls, etc. In short, it can put the "fire" out.
If the ECU commanded a drop to normal idle rpm immediately after starting, the engine could run rough depending on how low the temperature is. Under extreme cold conditions, the engine would most likely stall or even misfire. The ECU commands a faster engine speed to insure that the engine runs and immediately begins to warm up the combustion chamber surfaces. There also could be a faster engine warm up / cat lightoff consideration as well.
The ECU would use sensor inputs to to determine if fast idle was needed on startup and for how long. Most likely, the water and air temperature values would be fed to the ECU and possibly others as it adjusts the fast idle sequence. A shop manual is what is needed here for the hard facts....
The rpms rise up to around 2k for fast idle to aid a cold start. When the engine is cold inside, the combustion process can be hindered by the cold "soaked" surfaces of the head, valves, cylinder walls, etc. In short, it can put the "fire" out.
If the ECU commanded a drop to normal idle rpm immediately after starting, the engine could run rough depending on how low the temperature is. Under extreme cold conditions, the engine would most likely stall or even misfire. The ECU commands a faster engine speed to insure that the engine runs and immediately begins to warm up the combustion chamber surfaces. There also could be a faster engine warm up / cat lightoff consideration as well.
The ECU would use sensor inputs to to determine if fast idle was needed on startup and for how long. Most likely, the water and air temperature values would be fed to the ECU and possibly others as it adjusts the fast idle sequence. A shop manual is what is needed here for the hard facts....
i wait..when i first start the car..the rpm was like over 2,500..and it goes down to 1,300 pretty quick..but then i wait till it goes about 800, and then i start to move my car...normally takes about 2,3 minutes
its always good to wait ur engine to warm up!
its always good to wait ur engine to warm up!
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally posted by diesel_fan
Truly a sight to behold. A man beaten. The once great champ, now a study in moppishness. No longer the victory hungry stallion we've raced so many times before, but a pathetic, washed up, aged, ex champion.
"What's worse, speaking no English at all or speaking Howard Cossell?"
Truly a sight to behold. A man beaten. The once great champ, now a study in moppishness. No longer the victory hungry stallion we've raced so many times before, but a pathetic, washed up, aged, ex champion.
"What's worse, speaking no English at all or speaking Howard Cossell?"