haha, well, one of the good things about getting projectors, is with a simple mods, such as adding a few washers or slightly bending the shield on the inside, you can give your self bright white projection light with but the cut off will be colorful, this is what you want because it is not as easy to get pulled over by cops for having illegal color lights. Just look at these attached pics with a nice colorful cut off. This is what causes that beautiful flicker from the headlights when the car goes over bumps in the road such as the blues, purples, and whites. This is what you should be aiming for.

because of this, I think it is just plain stupid to sacrafice the light quality just so all of your light can be colorful, which i sharder on your eyes and will make it easier for cops to spot you out. but to each his own, I am just sharing all that I have learned so far.

-Justin

 

veryyyyyyy nice! man i wish someone would f*ckin make projector headlights for our lancers. seriously. like there are like 92' and 90' civics who have them, even my mom's expedition has projectors (well for sale, not on her car).

 

just so I make sure there is no confusion, I am not done with my yet, I will be hopefully, by mid july to the end of july. ill keep eveyone up to date.

 

also, I hope with me taking enough pictures of the head lights being finished professionally that other people can immitate the design and make some of there own. So hopefully I will be the only one who has to pay this much to make custome lights haha.

 

this is pretty interesting man, i've got some spanking new cedia housings that deserve something like this.

i've always wanted cedias, but i HATE driving at night cause all these idiots on the road have their brights on or aimed too high......so i would be a hypocrite if i put on HID's without projectors

i think this fall i might be getting this, the problem is money: projectors + hid kit + labor, is going to be near 1g for me

ah well, hope they turn out good for you man, then i'll start saving

 

Yo. my man Tweak, u should also do them for ppl who would be more prone to f*ck em' up. haha. Example : me send you the parts, and have you do it and charge me for it Just tryin to help ya out man! I would pay someone for them to make good projectors, ya know.

 

I might consider doing that once I get these back, then I can see how he put them together and see what is all involved in making sets. Then, if it is not too much of a pain in the ***, I might just do that.

-Justin

 

yeah, maybe some sort of group buy or something? i dont know. i just have civic projectors in my closet (apart) and my old lancer headlights taken apart in the closet. taking up space

 

ok, finally got my D2S bubls in with there wiring harness adapters, so now I need to adapt them so they fit my current harness's. I also finished the harness for the 9007 adapter so that I can use my hi beam without shutting off the low beam and also so that there is not a power delay when I switch from Hi to low which would cause the lights to flicker, this is not good for HID's haha. so here are some more updated pictures for everyone. if you want me to explain how I made my harness's just ask and I will make up some wiring diagrams.

-Justin

 

Just as a reference so the info is available on these boards. if you do get real projectors from a production car such as an Audi, BMW, Mercedes, etc, they will most likely use D2S bubls. These bulbs have a special wiring harness and it looks like it has 3 wires inside of it. There are actually only 2, the third white wire is a kevlar strand to help keep the wire from being stretched. I would also like to note that if you are going to make your own adapters for these, use automotive silicone to seal all connections and keep all High Voltage lines at the very least 5mm away from one another to prevent arcing and potential car fires. If you have any more questions please ask me.

-Justin

 

ok, well I decided to just post the wiring diagram right now haha. ok. for a 9007 adapter I just broke a light bulb and soddered everything I need to the appropriate spots. If you are looking at the bulb where you plug it in, with the notch up, it is low --- ground --- high. I will try and put together a good looking diagram in a bit, this is what I used when I was designing and testing my current hids to make sure that the lights stayed on at all times and still allowed me to use hi beams. the diodes are there to keep the current flowing to the low beams at all times and also to prevent EMF spike back when the HID's are shut off which can potentially burn up your stock harness. the capacitor which can be seen between the ground and low beam was to fix an occasional problem that I saw. Every once and a while the lights would flicker if I was constantly flicking the hi beams. This was caused by a brief lack of power on both the hi and low beam wires. to fix this, I placed a capacitor on the low beams going to the relay. what this does is acts as a battery for the few miliseconds that there is not power, which keeps the relay open so the ballasts keep a steady flow of power at all times. This will give your ballasts and yhour lights a long life and hopefully keep you from blowing anything up haha. as always, if you have any questions feel free to ask.

-Justin

PS this design will work for both single and bi-xenon projectors, just remove everything after the red lines and you will have no problems.

 

also please excuse my crappy hand writing haha. like I said, ill get these all typed up for you guys once the project is all done or once I have some more free time.

-Justin

 

mannn that stufff looks like jibrish to me. haha. i am clueless when it comes to wiring anything. but man looks like YOU know what you're doing, and for that, i commend you my fellow lancer owner!

 

ok, just another update, cause its late (or early depending on how you look at it) and I have nothing better to do. I sealed up my wiring harness that I made with some automotive sealent stuff I got at schucks both to make it so it will not short out from water or get dirty from crap being in the engine bay, but also to keep the wires from touching and possibly causing a fire or blowing fuses in the car. if you really want pics I can post em but I think everyone gets the point. I now have the harness with and all the necessary wires ran through the engine bay and in place for once I get the retrofit it self done. harness works better than I had expected. I have already hooked up the projectors to test out the High beam solenoid and it works quite well and with my design I will still be able to flash to pass (when necessary of course) and just flash people in general without destroying my bubls haha.

In other news, I should be recieving my stock headlights from smoku, hopefully everything is in one piece so I do not have to deal with USPS insurance. I will not have the money to pay for the retro until sunday night, and then because of the 4th of july, will not be able to ship them until tuesday. In anycase it should take about 3-4 business days to get to texas, a week or so for the retro itself, and 3-4 days to get them back. Aslong as everything goes as planned I should have everything up and running by the 20th of July or so. I noticed this thread is kinda dead at times, but look at the bright side, I will be able to help all of you out if you ever decide to take on this endevor. I am going to go get some sleep now. I will post some more general pictures tomorrow once I get the rest of my parts so I can have a complete before and after of everything.

-Justin

 

i admire what you're doing man.