+1

 

I have a 2004 Ralliart with a cold air intake installed and and i have gotten the P0171 code three times. I have heard from this forum that it might just be "idle air" from the cold air intake. So the third time the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on i decided to reset my ECU which i had never done before and i have heard that it might make the light go out for good. After resetting my ECU my car runs differently then before. My car now seems to reconize the cold air intake and it has adjusted itself to it. Maybe an ECU reset will solve the P0171 code? To reset my ECU all i did was disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes and then let the car idle for 5 and took it for a 10 minute cruise staying out of the high RPM's.

I would really like to help you get your Lancer back into shape. Everyone that doesnt like your car and is making fun of you are just jealous you bought a car with a lot of modifications already done.

 

Plus for a good price I might add. +1 For the car buy, have you done the tune up yet??? Also if you dont mine asking what part of FL doyou live in?? PM me if you wish.

 

I can't beleive I didn't see this thread before! I saw this car when it was on ebay and I had to laugh. There was so much incorrect information in that ad that it was rediculous. Some people already pointed out the dohc and the 4 wheel disc brakes, but in the main heading it said the car was turbo! I remember this because I wouldn't have even looked at the listing had it not said that. Then once I clicked on the link and looked at the add, I saw that it wasn't. Obviously, whoever you bought the car from was full of ****. I wouldn't have trusted a thing they said, or purchased the car, based on the auction listing. From the pictures, the car appears to be in good shape cosmetically. But if you're having problems with the car, I'm not surprised. If in fact there is a piggy hooked up, I'd take the damn thing out. Honestly, they're not worth the trouble they cause on an N/A Lancer unless you have the newest version. But from the sound of your problems, you probably have the old version. Rip that thing out, reset your ECU and you will probably be good to go. As for that pesky CEL, if you ordered the eliminator you should be fine with that, but your CEL may go off once you get rid of the piggy. The warm up cat is in the stock header. So when you replace the header with an aftermarket one, it usually throws that code. It doesn't hurt anything, its just annoying and won't pass inspection. If you're running too lean, the piggy is most likely the cause. So if you get rid of the piggy, and get the eliminator, you should be good to go. If not, then something else is wrong. And with all the false info you got on that car, it could be anything. Good luck!

 

Ok, today I did a rest to the ECU, let it idle for 5 minutes a perfect idle, then went driving aournd for 10-15 minuets, still perfect idles, then at the last stop light it started to do that bumpy idle thing all over again, notice a cherping sound comming from the front passager side in the engine area, when idling sometimes, wonder what that was all about? anyways, I will try again after getting the CEL Eliminator, thanks for the suggestions

 

Look into purchasing the RRM Piggyback Controller Software It might solve the problem with the Piggyback ECU as well as help you tune your ECU for daily driving.

 

Here are some pictures... man I am a bad photographer I completely missed what I wanted to take a picture of











Oh well I thought I post them up..

 

Update: Appearently there are more problems to the eye ...ahhhhhhhh....

But here are the things I had done :

Poly-Rib Belt
Poly-Rib Belt
Remove and Replace Alternator Drive Belt
Syntheic Blend Oil Change with Filter
Fuel System Tune-Up

I was also going to do a radiator flush.. but appearently there is a leak somewhere or something like that, the mechanic guy adjusted my idle some how with a hex tool and some wretch so the idle is ok for now, he said I should replace the MAF sensor when I install the CEL eliminator is that true? he said it will burn out enventually... but its 150.00$$ So now im waiting till I get my RRM parts the CEL elminator and strut bar.. its been 2 weeks they said I should get it next week or something, thats when I will take it in to the guy to do a presher test on the radiator he said it could be a faulty sensor "my temp is always in the middle between C and H" or could be the water pump and I would have to change my timming belt too.. oh man "sigh" let me know what you guys think about this

for now he said fill it up time to time with prestone 50/50

 

the temp gauge on the lancers is allways between the C and H. I read on here before they dont really work. (dont quote me on that).

 

+1. i agree.

 

The raidator fluid was low then filled then the next day it was in the low position again

Does anyone know what that sensor ontop of the intake mainfold is? its like a little box, he suggested replacing that sensor too


Thanks

 

Rad. fluid can vary. You fill it with the car off, then it circulates while the car is running. On my car, we "burped" the system and then refilled. So I wouldn't worry too much, unless you have a puddle or white smoke from the exhaust.

Not sure about the clip.

 

My guess, throttle body postion sensor, air temperature, or intake manifold pressure?

 

TBPS - doubtful, since it's on the IM
Air temp - could be
IM pressure - likely

 

its not the air intake temp sensor it takes that from the mass air flow its-self, its too far up to be throttle body sensor so i think it might be the pressure or volume sensor