If you have a piggy you can simply try raising the rpms to see if the problem stops. As for the SES that is expected with headers unlesss you get a CEL fix from RRM. btw, its always good to get the car checked by a third party mechanic before you buy it, its a good investment.

 

yeah and you can always go to an AutoZone or some place like that, and have them check the code and see what comes up. they can clear the light and them see what happens.

 

disconnect ur battery for 20minutes and then reconnect, let idle for 10-15 then drive around for 10-15 at various speeds... this will allow the car to "re-configure" itself and possibly fix a problem or 2.

 

^ if he has the piggy and its not connected properly reseting the battery is just goning to start the learning proccess over again its not going to fix a bad connection.

and if u keep raising the idle ur car is going to give another code for too high idle

before doing anything i recommend taking ur car to a autozone and get ur cel checked see what code it is if its the "random/multiple cylinder misfire" then its the piggy if its "warm up cat" or somthing similar then its ur header so before resteing everthing check it first

 

Yes go to a parts place like Autozone or Advance auto and ask them to check your Service engine soon light. This they do for free.

You should get a code like for instance P0300 which is a diagnostic tool to tell a mechanic what to look for. I am having a similar idle issue and that code popped up. I was told I need some spark plugs and at 60K you probably did not get the plugs changed as I am sure I dealer would leave that to the buyer to fix on their own.

Come back in and tell us what codes come up if you get them checked.


WADAD

 

Update 1 : I checked today if there is a piggy and I beilve there is... there is a big black wire and the a little greybox with what looked like electric tape taped to the big black wire with a whole bunch of wires comming from it running into the big black wire.... as for the ECU I think I saw that is it on a yellow wire with a red thing in the middle it you .. the red thing you can move it like a lever..

As for the misterous switch.. I think it controls the extra lights in front of the bummper

I went to pepboys to see if they would check my CEL Light.. they charge 70$$ and its a one day wait.. so right now im trying to find a AUTOZONE or something of that nature

Thanks For all of your help guys.. I hope that I could solve this problem ... and never buy a car from ebay AGAIN!!

I will take more pictures later on today and get them on a CD so I can upload them or something to give you guys a visual aid

Oh.. and there is not Test Pipe there are two tiny cats looks

 

If you end up needing a CEL eliminator you could get those on ebay for pretty cheap, they work good, a couple of my friends have some on their Civic and tC. Just don't buy another car. Sorry they kinda hit you with a lemon on this one. Unless you can get the problems fixed easy, and nothing else starts to fail on ya.

 

do your self a favor.. save your eyesight for other stuff. ONLY get chips / piggyback ecu's from RRM or RPW (The Tested n proven stuff) the only other chips you should be lookin at is sour cream n onion.

 

SHAnnon ... you dont wish!!! NOS for this car ='s KABOOOM!!!... turbo / Supercharge or evo III /IV motor swap is the only way to get huge power! but let me tell u what the others havent yet.... that header you have will only utilize a supercharger setup from http://rippmods.com. if you want turbo you have to get rrm's header or RPW's turbo manifold

 

Anyone else notice the inconsistencies in the list on the 2nd page (I think)?

 

Update #2 :

I whent to get that CEL light looked at the local adavanced auto parts... here are the results:



What should I do next? ... man not having air sucks.. Im gonna check that on Monday and have some pictures for you guys of the piggy and the header and the cat converts

 

yeah there are few innacurate things in that list:

Digital Instruments
DOHC
4 wheel disks
ABS (doubt it, don't know if that is even possible with read drums.)
sport steeing wheel
turbo add ons
Fast
California Emissions Compliant (Highly doubt it due to visual inspection)

ShannonCorp: Your car was falsely advertised. I havn't read the whole thread but if you purchased a car that said it had these things when it did not, that is illegal (and your car does not have these things). Sorry to hear about this. Good luck with whatever you deside to do, but on the lighter side. welcome to evom!

 

i know the p0421 is the code that the header will throw cause u eleminated the 1st cat
rrm sells a quick fix for that.

the other code esp. the o2 heater malfunction may just be the the first sensor going bad that would also give the lean code if the o2 is not getting a good reading

but as for the piggy (first congrads its like a $400 mod) it sounds like its working fine so leave it alone for now.

 

So all I gotta do is get one of thoses no CEL things from Road Race and get a new o2 sensor.. the advance auto guy said it would be about 250 and all of my idle problems will be gone? ... now I gotta worry about AIR CONDITION will check that out on monday and I will post some pics of the header and cat converters.. thanks for everything .. I just glade that its not gonna blow up on me.. do muffler shops install CEL Eliminators and O2 sensors?

 

Should I try playing around with the trottel body screw?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&page=2&pp=15

to change my idle to around 600-1000 so it doesnt bounce and make my lights flicker?

if changing the sensor and getting rid of the CEL light does not solve the problem?


Does this apply to me?

""" ambystom01
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Jan 15, 2006, 07:04 PM #5
Do not install it on the first O2! If your CEL is because of a header it will not solve the problem, trust me I learnt the hard way. All that happened is the eliminator melted and fused to the header which resulted in about 120$ worth of repair costs (nothing serious, the O2 bung just to be cleaned up and the CEL eliminator had to be scraped off). It's possible your gauge is causing the problem, a bad O2, any number of things. Get the code pulled and then come back, it could be a real CEL that was simply covered up by the header CEL.""""