Hello Everyone. I need some advice, i am not a mechanic but have some background in technology. So what happened is, the wire of the temperature sensor broke while driving and the gauge was in the middle like it always is so i didn't realize the car was overheating, no fumes, no smells nothing until it was too late. When it started to smell like oil i immediately pulled over but the engine went out and did not start again.
I was driving probably 20-30 minutes with an overheating engine but not sure. When i opened the hood oil and water was everywhere. I did a pressure test, the first three cylinders have only 30 psi (all exact the same) the last one has 100 psi. Motor is 4G13 12V SOHC with Carburetor
I haven't yet been able to take the head off but i like to know if anyone of you experienced anything like this with this model or similar. How likely is it that the head has warped or any damage to the the vales or valve seals or piston rings has occurred?
Also as i am living in Panama, i did not find a full motor rebuild kit, so i guess i need to buy all the gasket and seals individually. What do you recommend me to check and what gasket and seals (or other things like water pump and thermostat and)to replace? (I never removed the cylinder head of any car so no experience there)

 

I have exactly the same car and year. 1998 gl 1.3! In Uruguay.
I would have thought if the sensor cable broke the gauge would have changed!! It remained in the middle even though it was overheating?
Something to be concerned about in my case then. Good to know.

I've replaced a head gasket on an old alfa romeo 1988 model before. Was fairly straight forward tbh. I'd imagine it would be the same on this. Compression tests reveal the gasket has blown. If the timing belt is all good can't see how any valves or pistons would be affected.
I think there are straight edges you can use to see if the block is warped once the head is removed. These are solid engines no? Fingers crossed you'll be ok just replacing the gasket.

Maybe others will chime in giving more professional advice.
here is a manual of the 4G1
https://mofler.com/uploads/attachmen...840cdbae27aaae

 

Hello, i fixed the car i got all the parts, replaced water pump, head gasket, piston rings, bearings, oil seals etc etc... car has been running for month now but its leaking oil on the timing belt side, i changed the oil seals twice and they are dry i put gasket and sealer twice on the oil pan but still its leaking a bit here and there don't know what else to do. There are also very small leaks from the cylinder head where it meets the engine block surface but they are not that bad.

 

Great work!

So you have an oil leak from the pan?
I recently removed the oil pan on mine due to a stripped drian plug. Is that where you have the leak?
What RTV did you use and what torque on the small bolts?

I made sure the surfaces were super clean on both block and pan with carb cleaner. Added a 3-4mm bead of GREY RTV on the pan side, around the inside of the bolt holes and along the grooves.
Left it for 5 mins before reinstalling.
Then carefully in a star sequence torque them all to about 5Nm.
Mine has been totally dry since then.

 

Yes i did the same so when it was still leaking i went to a mechanic to remove the oil pan and change the screws and fix it again, its leaking less than before but still it doesn't stop. Don't know if its leaking from somewhere else and its not the oil pan. I also use grey RTV silicone.

 

oh man sorry to hear about that.
leaks are such a pain!

Chasing coolant leaks on my daily drive chevy aveo right now.
Expansion tank had a hairline crack underneath at the back I couldn't see. Changed that then the radiator blew!!
New rad in, then the throttle body coolant hose from the thermostat started leaking, pulled that off and the connection to the thermostat snapped off!! Not my day!

Now all that done, I see a small leak from the hose to the heater core, right at the back of the firewall, only accessible from underneath after removing the starter motor!!

Once the hoses start failing then its a chain reaction as you start putting new ones in, the pressure finding all the weak spots!!
Got to tackle the heater core pipe very soon.

My lancer needs attention also - one of the pulleys/tensioners or bearing is making a whining sound when hot. Got another thread on that.

 

Do you know if i can put shellac on the surface of the engine block and cylinder head when replacing the head gasket? Because there are small leaks at each corner of the cylinder head and i am thinking to remove the head and gasket again. This is the product i want to use https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...compound-2-oz/

 

Sorry not familiar with that.

I was under my lancer last night. Noticed a very very small leakage on the oil pan. Just a slightly wet area around 1 pan bolt. Almost just a sweat. No drips luckily yet.
I guess trying to get a factory seal is almost impossible. No idea why they didn´t use a proper gasket!

Last night I noticed the rad fan wasn´t coming on. It has 2 fans as it had AC fitted some years ago. The smaller original fan is connected to the AC and should come on when you switch it on. Have to hit it with a hammer to get it spinning so its pretty much dead.
Removed it and now looking for a replacement.

Thinking of buying a water pump, new belts including the timing belt and tensioners. Piece of mind as I have no idea when they were changed.
I´d say maybe 7-10yrs ago. Sticker with the date on is all faded. My Father in law has no recollection of when it was changed. He always said ah very recently but he´s 95, not in good health and will not know in his state. He never kept any receipts either.

But its 36c today and I have no AC fan, got to take my son out so will be a hot ride with no AC on..