Hey guys,

Just looking to get some insight on a problem I've been having with my 2003 OZ.

I first picked up the car about a year ago and the brakes shook HEAVILY when braking. My first thought was warped rotors, I changed the pads and rotors and the shaking/vibrating went away.

This was back in september.

Now, it's April and the vibrating has returned. Not nearly to the extent that it was before, but I can definitely notice a vibration when braking from high speeds quickly.

The only thing I can think of is changing the callipers. I've heard of people flipping their rotors to the opposite sides, but I just don't see it as a permanent solution being as these rotors are almost new!

Any help is greatly appreciated as always!

T0W3L

 

Bump - Still curious if anyone has had any similar problems. My rotors seem to be gradually warping. Tempted to just do callipers anyway so I can paint them purple

 

Your rotors aren't warped - I've never ever seen warped rotors. The problem is the pistons in the calipers are corroded and sticking. When working properly, the pistons move several thou when you press the brake pedal and then are brought back in place after by the flex of the piston seal. Overhaul the calipers or buy remans.

The other possible source of shaking is worn CV axles.

 

Well, it makes sense to me that it's the callipers. It's what I suspected after I changed my rotors. I'm mainly curious why the problem was "fixed" for a few months after changing the rotors. If the calliper is applying uneven pressure wouldn't it wear them unevenly causing a vibration?

 

Still wondering if anyone has had a similar problem. I can get reman calipers relatively cheap but I still don't feel like doing them on a hunch.

 

Brake work isn't hard, but it requires some diagnostic skills

1. Examine the pads carefully. Are they worn unevenly? Uneven from to back, suspect a binding caliper pin. Uneven top to bottom, rare - be prepared to take this to a brake shop for professional help.

2. Check the caliper, does the piston look clean, no leaks? No damage to the boot? Problems here require either a rebuild or new caliper.

3. Pins are clean and slid out easily? If not, clean and lube with proper caliper or brake lube. Pitting, damage? Replace. New boots as well.

4. Rotor - damage/spalling? These need to be replaced. If you are 'just' replacing your rotors, you are probably doing it wrong. Check items 1-3, very carefully. Warped rotors are sometimes caused by wear and being too thin, but panic stops will also cause them on some cars. Lancers are pretty light, but when I drove a Taurus for a living, a full on panic stop from 80 would leave me with a slight pulse. Warped. Some models are worse than others. Various makes not so much, but I have heard even high end makes suffer from this. Abuse can cause this.

Also, check your suspension. Tie rod ends do this, but most suspension problems cause pulsing/vibration constantly until fixed. Recurring problems are probably the brakes.

 

Extremely helpful. You've got me thinking the right way. I'm taking the strut assemblies out this weekend so it'll be a good time to inspect everything thoroughly.

I'm thinking it may have to do with the caliper pins and boots as you suggested in #3. When I replaced pads and rotors they seemed a little corroded, and I actually had to use a "brush grinder" (for lack of the real name of the tool) and lube to get one to slide properly.

When it comes down to it the hardware costs about as much as I can get one reman caliper for. So I may as well just do calipers and hardware if it's only going to cost me an extra 60$.

Will post here when I inspect, thanks rickb928!

 

I have been having the same issue - exactly as u described. Went ahead and replaced rotors and pads. My issue returned after a couple months. Have you been able to solve this?

 

Unfortunately no, I'm still getting vibrations albeit they haven't gotten worse and are not terribly bad unless braking from high speeds. I've decided to do the calipers come spring, or whenever I have to do a brake job next. I'll update when I've done that.

 

Yeah man, mine are only felt from high speeds. I got you, probably I should just get some calipers also.

 

rebuilding the calipers is a lot easier than i thought, assuming you have an air compressor. new seals are really cheap and the pistons aren't too bad, either (if they need to be replaced).

get everything from RockAuto.com and save a ton of cash.

fwiw it sounds like pad transfer material is stuck to the rotors. are you hard on your brakes at all? you can take some 300-400 grit sandpaper and go over the rotors. see if that helps. it doesn't take that much. or, if you are lazy like me, you may find a place that can clean them up for you. LOL. if you do, tell them NOT to turn the rotors, but to only finish them.

and like the first reply says: most modern rotors don't warp. the only time i've heard of that happening was a guy coming off track and went through some water. the sudden cooling warped the iron. but that's super rare.

 

Great advice! Thanks for sharing.

 

Be sure to discern the difference in high speed stops between brake pedal pulse and tire wear. Pedal pulsing is a sign of warped rotors, and will happen at any speed, though it may be more subtle when slower or more pronounced when faster. Worn tires also will cause pulsing, but tires will cause steering wheel wobble without the brakes. That is the clue.

Those dirty pins are a no-no. Replace them if you replace/rebuild the calipers, Always use hi-temp brake grease. Do both, save up if you need to. Doing brakes one side at a time is dangerous.

If you find pad material bonded to the rotor, you need to change something. Pad should never bond to rotors. Ever. Possibly incompatible materials, but I doubt that. Sanding off any such material is unwise, but it may not be too hard. Check your rotor thickness.

 

if the brakes get hot enough it's possible. that's the reason we never, ever use a parking brake or sit on the brake pedal after a track session.

we all do it on a regular basis when swapping from track to street brake pads and back again. what is your reasoning? i'd like to know if i'm i've been doing something wrong all these years.