2008 Lancer bulb list
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: United States
LED daytime running lights
Hi guys, I have a stock 2011 Ralliart and I'm planning on getting a pair of LED daytime running lights for the front, but I'm not sure where's the "best" place to install them. The stock foglight housing seems too small and restrictive while the grill mesh seems a tad too obstructive. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: GTA
has anyone changed the light bulbs down in the centre console by the change pocket? The lights that shine down onto the surface of the center console with the shifter? If so, how do you accomplish this and what size bulb is it?
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: City of nonyabiz
Just bought these red w5w from amazon
They with about 1 mm of space to spare. They are very deep red not like the regular bulb that have a pink/yellow hue. So far, I'm happy with them. They don't fit in the license plate light sockets with the cover.
One of these only lasted 10 months. Going to try another pair. Also going to try brake light from same manufacturer.
Last edited by pcguru2000; Jun 5, 2013 at 05:13 PM. Reason: update posting
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Utica NY
I found out the hard way, after ordering LED replacement bulbs, that the Sportback model has different backup lights. Instead of using a 7440 bulb it has a 194/168 socket.
While changing other bulbs to LED I also discovered that the license plate bulb housing is pretty small. If you plan to switch to LED, find LEDs that are not much longer than the stock bulb. Once I get everything working I'll try to post a list of every bulb I used.
While changing other bulbs to LED I also discovered that the license plate bulb housing is pretty small. If you plan to switch to LED, find LEDs that are not much longer than the stock bulb. Once I get everything working I'll try to post a list of every bulb I used.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Utica NY
LED Light Conversion Notes and Tips - part 1
List of LED Lights - 2010 Lancer Sportback GTS equipped with factory HID headlights
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Notes/Tips:
1) The sockets listed below may be called other things. For example a 194 socket can also be known as a 168, W5W, 2825, 2827, and maybe more. I found this confusing when shopping for bulbs because some sites wouldn't list any products for a 2825 socket but had the 194. I'm using what seems to be the most popular designation for the socket, not necessarily what the user manual says the bulb is or what Sylvania's light lookup page says. Here's a chart of how some things could be cross listed: https://www.vleds.com/faq#10
2) As a matter of preference, my white lights are 5000k or 5000 kelvin temperature (may be listed as "cool white"). This is in the "daylight" white range along with 6k ("super white"), compared to 8k lights which are more blue or compared to lower temperature which are more yellow. This may be important to you just so all the white lights you have match. Unless of course you want yellow fog lights and blue day time running and purple HIDs, that's entirely up to you. Generally as the color temperature increases you also lose brightness. Stock HID headlights are 4300k as that is accepted as the highest light output.
3) Some bulbs must be installed with the proper polarity, in other words you may need to take them out and turn them around if they don't light up. Test each light after plugging it into the socket but before fully installing it into the housing to save yourself work. Especially true with hard to reach bulbs. Nothing worse than getting everything put back together to find that you have to start all over. You may also want to test in different scenarios to be sure the car is handling the load properly with different lights on. For instance I was testing my turn signal lights by turning the hazards on with the car not running. I did this to be lazy because I didn't have to have the key on. Everything looked good and then later I started the car and tried the signals and got hyperflash. I guess the way the hazards are wired and the turn signals are wired is different.
4) This could be used as a shopping guide for changing your lights, but I have no control over the sites I'm linking to. They could change the products in the future and cause issues. Where sizes are important I'll try to note that and you can check the specs of whatever you choose to purchase.
5) Lumen is a measure of light output. It may not be something that you can quantify easily because incandescent bulbs are measured in watts (the power they draw, not their light output). Using lumens as the measure makes sense because a low wattage LED can put out the same or more light than a higher wattage incandescent bulb, so watts don't allow for an even comparison. A 100 watt incandescent household bulb is about 1400 lumens. But that's not good for comparison either because we use that household bulb to light a large space, while the lights we have in vehicles are usually being reflected so all the output is in one direction. That lowers the number of lumens we need to do the job compared with lighting a room. You can at least use the lumen ratings to compare different LED products you may be looking at buying. Some sites won't list the lumen output, which is unfortunate. Be cautious with sites that instead have a "brightness rating", which they can arbitrarily assign and will only allow you to compare a bulb with another bulb on the same website.
Here is what I installed, in no particular order, and my notes about installation:
Rear License Plate lights - 194 socket
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/minia...21-1-pair.html
Warning, these lights are 29mm long and just barely fit in the housing (the website says they are 27mm but I measured them myself). If getting something different be very careful with the length. The car user manual explains how to change these. The light housing slides a little to the left and then pulls out. Be gentle sliding it left though, I probably slid it too far and cracked one of the clips. Had to rig it to stay on right.
Lumen rating unknown, bright enough to illuminate the whole plate, the entire area around it, and top of the bumper.
Brake Lights - 7443 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10264715.html Plazma Red
These are by far the easiest bulbs to change. On my Sportback you just have to take out the cloth access panels on either side of the cargo area and reach in to twist the socket and replace the bulb. Some cheapo bulbs from Pepboys I tried barely fit because they were a little larger around than they should have been, certainly any decent brand LED bulb will have a small enough diameter.
These are 320 lumens each.
Rear Turn Signals - 7440 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10264716.html Plazma Amber
Superbrightleds.com load resistor* RL-2525: Marker Lamp Load Resistor RL-2525: Marker Lamp Load Resistor
I did not figured out an easy way to get to the wiring to connect to the load resistor (required to prevent hyperflashing for turn signals), or an easy way to mount the resistor. What I ended up doing was using the small access panel in the cargo area to access the wiring, tap the resistor into the circuit and then drill a hole in the sheet metal above the might fixture to mount it to. Be sure you're finding a good spot to mount to, wouldn't want to drill into the exterior. This was a pain in the ***, you may want to explore removing the fixture entirely to do the wiring; I didn't want to because it looked like it was going to be tricky to get to the bolts.
These are 320 lumens each.
Reverse lights - 194 socket (I believe this is 7440 on non-Sportback models)
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10256746.html Standard white.
This is not the brightest light I could get, so you may want to look into other option. These were originally purchased as the license plate lights and I didn't need a lot of brightness there, however the bulbs were too long for that location and the 7440 lights I ordered for this spot wasn't the correct socket on the Sportback. If your car uses the 7440 socket you'll have a lot more options for finding something nice and bright for this application. With the blind spots in the Sportback I can't see well backing up, so I figure having bright light output wouldn't help me much. I get plenty of light from the brake lights backing up anyway.
These are 50 lumens each, fine for me but maybe not sufficient for most people.
Rear marker lights - 194 socket
http://www.vleds.com/red-4-led-2-wat...58-1-pair.html
This particular bulb only has LEDs on one side. The reflector does well with directing the light so mine look ok even with the LEDs shining toward the front of the car. You may want to pay attention when putting them in the socket to make the left and right bulbs both point the same way. Maybe I'm just picky. These were hard to change because the light socket was very tight. After taking the electrical connector off, I was able to use a socket wrench (I think I used a 3/4" socket) and some extensions to twist the socket with some force and remove it. Only needs 1/8th of a twist counterclockwise, but it was in there good. I actually had to use the socket wrench to get the light socket back in too.
These are 40 lumens each.
Front marker lights - 194 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...ng-406463.html Stick B-type Amber
Note to change the marker lights you have to loosen the bolts and clips on the inner fender and reach up into the front fender from there. It's not convenient. These were polarized bulbs, so check that they work before you put them back up into their spot and bolt everything back together. If they don't work turn them around and test again. On the other hand, if you're going to be replacing multiple bulbs in the headlight unit you may want to take the bumper off and remove the fixtures. It's a lot easier to get to the back of the housing and change the bulbs. See the front turn signals section for more information.
Lumen rating unknown, I think they are at least the same brightness as the stock bulbs.
Front turn signals - 7440 socket
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/7440-Single...440_sku325.htm
If you haven't heard of switchback bulbs check them out. The iJDMtoy site has pictures of the product on a lancer and I think it looks great. These are "type 2" switchbacks, so they are white when given power (there is a small wire you have to tap into another source, like the front marker lights, for power) and blink amber when the turn signals or hazards are activated. The complex part of installing these, other than needing load resistors, is that it's hard to get to the wires for the parking lights to tap into. I used the parking lights because I don't want the switchbacks on unless the other lights are on. This gives me a few scenarios; A) only day time running lights on. B) day time running plus parking lights and switchbacks; gives me a little more forward brightness but not full headlights. C) HID headlights on, this automatically turns off the day time running lights but the switchbacks stay on. If you fail miserably to hook up the third wire these will still work properly as turn signals by just sticking them in the socket and adding the load resistors. But they are expensive if you're not going to use the switchback feature. I don't have good advice on how to change these without removing the bumper and the fixtures. It is possible to get to the socket and switch them, unless you have big hands. Removing the plastic cover between the headlights helps to get to the passenger side one, but not the driver. If you're thinking of taking the lights out of the housing to work on them, be aware that you have to take the entire front bumper off. Even though that sounds like a pain, it may be easier than trying to change the bulbs with the fixtures in the car. I did it and was able to do the load resistor wiring on my workbench instead of trying to get them installed in place. See this video for help:
. I realized the easiest place to tap into a 12v wire was the back of the headlight. The harness connector breaks off to the various lights and its relatively easy to access if you take the headlight unit out to work on it. I ended up tapping into the blue cable going into the front marker lights. I tried using the same 25 watt load resistors for the front signals that I used for the rears, and I got hyperflashing. 
I ordered a set of 50 watt 3ohm ones and they worked. http://www.vleds.com/resistors/led-l...ix-1-pair.html Another note about installing, I purchased a set of mounting plates for the load resistors and it was worth the money. With a small assortment of nuts and bolts from the local Harbor Freight I bolted the resistors to the plate and the plate was able to fit perfectly into a vertical frame member and utilize an existing hole to bolt to. This hole is above the inside edge (grill side) of each light and is identical on both sides. I also used crimp on connectors between the resistors and the wires to the bulb circuit so I can easily disconnect. When I need to take the headlight fixture out I can disconnect the resistor without unbolting it from the car.
Lumen rating unknown, but both the white and amber modes appear plenty bright to me. They are slightly bluer than my DRL bulbs, so they might be 6000k as opposed to 5000k. It doesn't bother me though, it still looks really nice.
Front day time running lights - 1156 socket
http://www.vleds.com/5k-white-21-led...56-1-pair.html
Note my car is equipped with the factory HID lights, so I have a Xenon bulb for high/low and a day time running bulb. This will be different if you have the stock lights with separate low beam bulb and high beam bulb. Due to the way the reflector is built there is a length limit on this. I didn't measure but got lucky that this bulb just barely fit, anything longer wouldn't (this is 60mm). If you're going to be replacing multiple bulbs in the headlight unit you may want to take the bumper off and remove the fixtures. It's a lot easier to get to the back of the housing and change the bulbs. See the front turn signals section for more information.
These are 510 lumens each. Brighter than the stock bulbs in both day and night use, and whiter light. At close range it looks almost as bright as headlights, but when driving in the dark they don't throw light down the road very far. I have great night vision and between these and the switchbacks I can drive around without the headlights on most of the time (not that anyone would recommend that).
Dome/Map lights - 3175 Festoon base bulb
Superbrightleds.com 3022-x9: DE3175 LED Bulb - 9 LED Festoon 3022-R9: Red
I got red LEDs for this because I don't like the super bright white dome lights (like when you're driving and your passenger turns on the dome light to read something). The red lights still let you see inside the car but don't affect your night vision so you can still see ahead of you.
The 3022 needed for the trunk and 3175 are only slightly different, so you can probably get either one to fit in either location.
These are 20 lumens each, which is dimmer than the stock bulb. If you wanted to stay with white you could get some that are brighter than what I choose.
Cargo area light - 3022 Festoon base bulb
Superbrightleds.com 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon 3022-CWHP4: Cool White
There are 3022 festoon bulbs out there that are double width or even larger but this area doesn't have a lot of room for a big bulb. This fixture also clamps onto the round ends of the bulb rather than having a ring it sits in (like the front dome lights). This means that you may have trouble mounting LEDs that look like a flat chip rather than the fully round metal ends. This particular bulb just exactly fits, any bigger may have been a problem.
This is 70 lumens, and it definitely makes seeing in the cargo area at night MUCH better.
FOG lights - H11 socket
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h...11-1-pair.html ($60 pair)
I like these bulbs much better than the stock. The color more closely matches the xenon headlights and the LED daytime running lights. To change the bulb take out the screw that holds the plastic cover, then take out the three screws holding the fog fixture to the car. Disconnect the electrical cable and then twist the bulb to take it out. I don't like that Mitsubishi made it so I can only use the fogs when the headlights are on. With the HID headlights the fogs only add a little more light to the road (more of a wide spread light). I'd much rather use them when the headlights are off, so I may rewire them. I found this fix that makes them day time running lights: http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47024 That's not really what I want, but it's getting there.
These are 850 lumens each.
Headlight - HID D2S socket
This is being left stock for now. I've seen some comments online that the stock HIDs are 4300K and people have liked to switch the bulbs with 6000K to get a whiter look, but I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The stock bulbs are very very bright lights and look a hell of a lot better than non-HID bulbs that come in most cars. For $50 a piece these aren't getting replaced until they burn out. If you have the 9005 or 9006 style high and low beams you may want to upgrade them, but I don't think LEDs would be bright enough (at least noticably). For comparison, from what I could research, a halogen 9006 bulb is going to have an output around the 1100 lumen range, while the 4300K HID bulbs are going to put out up to 3200 lumen. HID certainly can't compete with LEDs here, halogen though is closer. The highest output LED I've come across was this: http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/drl-f...11-1-pair.html (also available in 9005 or 9006 socket). Even though the lumen comparison looks good (1100 halogen vs 1200 LED) this may not direct all the light forward because it's only hitting the top of the reflector. If you wanted to take your stock halogen bulbs and swap them with these you'd probably get less overall light output, but it would be more white.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Notes/Tips:
1) The sockets listed below may be called other things. For example a 194 socket can also be known as a 168, W5W, 2825, 2827, and maybe more. I found this confusing when shopping for bulbs because some sites wouldn't list any products for a 2825 socket but had the 194. I'm using what seems to be the most popular designation for the socket, not necessarily what the user manual says the bulb is or what Sylvania's light lookup page says. Here's a chart of how some things could be cross listed: https://www.vleds.com/faq#10
2) As a matter of preference, my white lights are 5000k or 5000 kelvin temperature (may be listed as "cool white"). This is in the "daylight" white range along with 6k ("super white"), compared to 8k lights which are more blue or compared to lower temperature which are more yellow. This may be important to you just so all the white lights you have match. Unless of course you want yellow fog lights and blue day time running and purple HIDs, that's entirely up to you. Generally as the color temperature increases you also lose brightness. Stock HID headlights are 4300k as that is accepted as the highest light output.
3) Some bulbs must be installed with the proper polarity, in other words you may need to take them out and turn them around if they don't light up. Test each light after plugging it into the socket but before fully installing it into the housing to save yourself work. Especially true with hard to reach bulbs. Nothing worse than getting everything put back together to find that you have to start all over. You may also want to test in different scenarios to be sure the car is handling the load properly with different lights on. For instance I was testing my turn signal lights by turning the hazards on with the car not running. I did this to be lazy because I didn't have to have the key on. Everything looked good and then later I started the car and tried the signals and got hyperflash. I guess the way the hazards are wired and the turn signals are wired is different.
4) This could be used as a shopping guide for changing your lights, but I have no control over the sites I'm linking to. They could change the products in the future and cause issues. Where sizes are important I'll try to note that and you can check the specs of whatever you choose to purchase.
5) Lumen is a measure of light output. It may not be something that you can quantify easily because incandescent bulbs are measured in watts (the power they draw, not their light output). Using lumens as the measure makes sense because a low wattage LED can put out the same or more light than a higher wattage incandescent bulb, so watts don't allow for an even comparison. A 100 watt incandescent household bulb is about 1400 lumens. But that's not good for comparison either because we use that household bulb to light a large space, while the lights we have in vehicles are usually being reflected so all the output is in one direction. That lowers the number of lumens we need to do the job compared with lighting a room. You can at least use the lumen ratings to compare different LED products you may be looking at buying. Some sites won't list the lumen output, which is unfortunate. Be cautious with sites that instead have a "brightness rating", which they can arbitrarily assign and will only allow you to compare a bulb with another bulb on the same website.
Here is what I installed, in no particular order, and my notes about installation:
Rear License Plate lights - 194 socket
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/minia...21-1-pair.html
Warning, these lights are 29mm long and just barely fit in the housing (the website says they are 27mm but I measured them myself). If getting something different be very careful with the length. The car user manual explains how to change these. The light housing slides a little to the left and then pulls out. Be gentle sliding it left though, I probably slid it too far and cracked one of the clips. Had to rig it to stay on right.
Lumen rating unknown, bright enough to illuminate the whole plate, the entire area around it, and top of the bumper.
Brake Lights - 7443 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10264715.html Plazma Red
These are by far the easiest bulbs to change. On my Sportback you just have to take out the cloth access panels on either side of the cargo area and reach in to twist the socket and replace the bulb. Some cheapo bulbs from Pepboys I tried barely fit because they were a little larger around than they should have been, certainly any decent brand LED bulb will have a small enough diameter.
These are 320 lumens each.
Rear Turn Signals - 7440 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10264716.html Plazma Amber
Superbrightleds.com load resistor* RL-2525: Marker Lamp Load Resistor RL-2525: Marker Lamp Load Resistor
I did not figured out an easy way to get to the wiring to connect to the load resistor (required to prevent hyperflashing for turn signals), or an easy way to mount the resistor. What I ended up doing was using the small access panel in the cargo area to access the wiring, tap the resistor into the circuit and then drill a hole in the sheet metal above the might fixture to mount it to. Be sure you're finding a good spot to mount to, wouldn't want to drill into the exterior. This was a pain in the ***, you may want to explore removing the fixture entirely to do the wiring; I didn't want to because it looked like it was going to be tricky to get to the bolts.
These are 320 lumens each.
Reverse lights - 194 socket (I believe this is 7440 on non-Sportback models)
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...-10256746.html Standard white.
This is not the brightest light I could get, so you may want to look into other option. These were originally purchased as the license plate lights and I didn't need a lot of brightness there, however the bulbs were too long for that location and the 7440 lights I ordered for this spot wasn't the correct socket on the Sportback. If your car uses the 7440 socket you'll have a lot more options for finding something nice and bright for this application. With the blind spots in the Sportback I can't see well backing up, so I figure having bright light output wouldn't help me much. I get plenty of light from the brake lights backing up anyway.
These are 50 lumens each, fine for me but maybe not sufficient for most people.
Rear marker lights - 194 socket
http://www.vleds.com/red-4-led-2-wat...58-1-pair.html
This particular bulb only has LEDs on one side. The reflector does well with directing the light so mine look ok even with the LEDs shining toward the front of the car. You may want to pay attention when putting them in the socket to make the left and right bulbs both point the same way. Maybe I'm just picky. These were hard to change because the light socket was very tight. After taking the electrical connector off, I was able to use a socket wrench (I think I used a 3/4" socket) and some extensions to twist the socket with some force and remove it. Only needs 1/8th of a twist counterclockwise, but it was in there good. I actually had to use the socket wrench to get the light socket back in too.
These are 40 lumens each.
Front marker lights - 194 socket
http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...ng-406463.html Stick B-type Amber
Note to change the marker lights you have to loosen the bolts and clips on the inner fender and reach up into the front fender from there. It's not convenient. These were polarized bulbs, so check that they work before you put them back up into their spot and bolt everything back together. If they don't work turn them around and test again. On the other hand, if you're going to be replacing multiple bulbs in the headlight unit you may want to take the bumper off and remove the fixtures. It's a lot easier to get to the back of the housing and change the bulbs. See the front turn signals section for more information.
Lumen rating unknown, I think they are at least the same brightness as the stock bulbs.
Front turn signals - 7440 socket
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/7440-Single...440_sku325.htm
If you haven't heard of switchback bulbs check them out. The iJDMtoy site has pictures of the product on a lancer and I think it looks great. These are "type 2" switchbacks, so they are white when given power (there is a small wire you have to tap into another source, like the front marker lights, for power) and blink amber when the turn signals or hazards are activated. The complex part of installing these, other than needing load resistors, is that it's hard to get to the wires for the parking lights to tap into. I used the parking lights because I don't want the switchbacks on unless the other lights are on. This gives me a few scenarios; A) only day time running lights on. B) day time running plus parking lights and switchbacks; gives me a little more forward brightness but not full headlights. C) HID headlights on, this automatically turns off the day time running lights but the switchbacks stay on. If you fail miserably to hook up the third wire these will still work properly as turn signals by just sticking them in the socket and adding the load resistors. But they are expensive if you're not going to use the switchback feature. I don't have good advice on how to change these without removing the bumper and the fixtures. It is possible to get to the socket and switch them, unless you have big hands. Removing the plastic cover between the headlights helps to get to the passenger side one, but not the driver. If you're thinking of taking the lights out of the housing to work on them, be aware that you have to take the entire front bumper off. Even though that sounds like a pain, it may be easier than trying to change the bulbs with the fixtures in the car. I did it and was able to do the load resistor wiring on my workbench instead of trying to get them installed in place. See this video for help:
I ordered a set of 50 watt 3ohm ones and they worked. http://www.vleds.com/resistors/led-l...ix-1-pair.html Another note about installing, I purchased a set of mounting plates for the load resistors and it was worth the money. With a small assortment of nuts and bolts from the local Harbor Freight I bolted the resistors to the plate and the plate was able to fit perfectly into a vertical frame member and utilize an existing hole to bolt to. This hole is above the inside edge (grill side) of each light and is identical on both sides. I also used crimp on connectors between the resistors and the wires to the bulb circuit so I can easily disconnect. When I need to take the headlight fixture out I can disconnect the resistor without unbolting it from the car.Lumen rating unknown, but both the white and amber modes appear plenty bright to me. They are slightly bluer than my DRL bulbs, so they might be 6000k as opposed to 5000k. It doesn't bother me though, it still looks really nice.
Front day time running lights - 1156 socket
http://www.vleds.com/5k-white-21-led...56-1-pair.html
Note my car is equipped with the factory HID lights, so I have a Xenon bulb for high/low and a day time running bulb. This will be different if you have the stock lights with separate low beam bulb and high beam bulb. Due to the way the reflector is built there is a length limit on this. I didn't measure but got lucky that this bulb just barely fit, anything longer wouldn't (this is 60mm). If you're going to be replacing multiple bulbs in the headlight unit you may want to take the bumper off and remove the fixtures. It's a lot easier to get to the back of the housing and change the bulbs. See the front turn signals section for more information.
These are 510 lumens each. Brighter than the stock bulbs in both day and night use, and whiter light. At close range it looks almost as bright as headlights, but when driving in the dark they don't throw light down the road very far. I have great night vision and between these and the switchbacks I can drive around without the headlights on most of the time (not that anyone would recommend that).
Dome/Map lights - 3175 Festoon base bulb
Superbrightleds.com 3022-x9: DE3175 LED Bulb - 9 LED Festoon 3022-R9: Red
I got red LEDs for this because I don't like the super bright white dome lights (like when you're driving and your passenger turns on the dome light to read something). The red lights still let you see inside the car but don't affect your night vision so you can still see ahead of you.
The 3022 needed for the trunk and 3175 are only slightly different, so you can probably get either one to fit in either location.
These are 20 lumens each, which is dimmer than the stock bulb. If you wanted to stay with white you could get some that are brighter than what I choose.
Cargo area light - 3022 Festoon base bulb
Superbrightleds.com 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon 3022-CWHP4: Cool White
There are 3022 festoon bulbs out there that are double width or even larger but this area doesn't have a lot of room for a big bulb. This fixture also clamps onto the round ends of the bulb rather than having a ring it sits in (like the front dome lights). This means that you may have trouble mounting LEDs that look like a flat chip rather than the fully round metal ends. This particular bulb just exactly fits, any bigger may have been a problem.
This is 70 lumens, and it definitely makes seeing in the cargo area at night MUCH better.
FOG lights - H11 socket
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h...11-1-pair.html ($60 pair)
I like these bulbs much better than the stock. The color more closely matches the xenon headlights and the LED daytime running lights. To change the bulb take out the screw that holds the plastic cover, then take out the three screws holding the fog fixture to the car. Disconnect the electrical cable and then twist the bulb to take it out. I don't like that Mitsubishi made it so I can only use the fogs when the headlights are on. With the HID headlights the fogs only add a little more light to the road (more of a wide spread light). I'd much rather use them when the headlights are off, so I may rewire them. I found this fix that makes them day time running lights: http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47024 That's not really what I want, but it's getting there.
These are 850 lumens each.
Headlight - HID D2S socket
This is being left stock for now. I've seen some comments online that the stock HIDs are 4300K and people have liked to switch the bulbs with 6000K to get a whiter look, but I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The stock bulbs are very very bright lights and look a hell of a lot better than non-HID bulbs that come in most cars. For $50 a piece these aren't getting replaced until they burn out. If you have the 9005 or 9006 style high and low beams you may want to upgrade them, but I don't think LEDs would be bright enough (at least noticably). For comparison, from what I could research, a halogen 9006 bulb is going to have an output around the 1100 lumen range, while the 4300K HID bulbs are going to put out up to 3200 lumen. HID certainly can't compete with LEDs here, halogen though is closer. The highest output LED I've come across was this: http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/drl-f...11-1-pair.html (also available in 9005 or 9006 socket). Even though the lumen comparison looks good (1100 halogen vs 1200 LED) this may not direct all the light forward because it's only hitting the top of the reflector. If you wanted to take your stock halogen bulbs and swap them with these you'd probably get less overall light output, but it would be more white.
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Utica NY
LED Conversion Notes and Tips - Part 2
Side Turn Signals - proprietary
In case you're looking into replacing the side turn signals with LED (those in the front fenders) you probably are out of luck. The entire side light is a sealed unit. If you want to look at it, just slide it forward a little and you can pop it out (don't let the cable fall into the fender if you disconnect it). I saw something where a guy added a white LED to the side turn signal just so it was white when he had the parking lights on, but he didn't replace the actual amber turn signal bulb. According to the user manual it's not a user-replacable part at all, but they can be found if yours burns out: http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...s-1435584.html Other people have baked the housing so they could separate the front and back and then replaced the bulb with an LED, I think it's a 194 socket, but you'd have to check on that. As of now these are the only two exterior bulbs on my car that are not LED. Someone make an aftermarket LED replacement unit! I assume that switching these would also require resistors, but it's such a low wattage bulb that maybe the current change isn't too much to mess up the circuit and make it think there is a bulb out. You'd have to do some more research and see what others have done.
Bumper Reflector lights - custom
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Mitsubishi-...tor-sku410.htm
I haven't installed these yet, they were kind of an impulse buy and I didn't realize how much of a pain in the *** it was going to be to install them. Basically these replace the rear bumper reflectors with a set of LEDs. They have dual brightness so they can be hooked into the brake light power and act as extra tail lights and brake lights. Warning: These come with zero instructions and the instructions on the website are generic; if you're not the type to figure out how to do it, I wouldn't even attempt this. I also found that the set I got didn't have the same wire labelling (which wire is power, which wire is brake, which wire is ground) the website showed. So if you're going to wire these in, I'd recommend testing which wire is which before you tap into the vehicle electrical (for testing I found using two 9 volt batteries in series gave me plenty of power to test the LED lights without having to go get a car battery to connect things to for testing). On the set I got the wire with X's on it is negative, the red dashed wire is for brake, and the while plain wire is for normal tail light. I like the idea of these, but I haven't yet gotten the ambition to take the rear bumper off and try to figure out how to route the cable to the brake lights and tap in. In just wiring them up on a table with a 12v power supply they don't seem super bright, and not a huge difference between the on mode and the brake(bright) mode, but the pictures on the site show it accurately I think. I don't know much about it, but I also found this version of the bumper lights: http://www.twlamp.com.tw/products/pr...=3233&cid=380# which appears to have a 4th wire available to tie into turn signals.
Rear Fog light - proprietary
This may be obscure, but I found it and I'll share with everyone. Apparently the European shipped lancers (maybe just the Sportbacks) have an option for a rear fog light. I always wondered why there was a random blank panel in the middle of my bumper. Here is where you can buy one and what it looks like: http://www.japanparts.com/db/parts_d...=38&submit.y=2 The page states that it doesn't include the wiring harness and switches, so I would guess a U.S. Lancer would not have the option for this built in (I am going to look next time I'm behind the rear bumper though).
Gauge and console lights
For those wondering, no I didn't do anything with the gauge illumination or the center console. Those are stock and I'm not planning on changing anything. I prefer the inside of the car to be as dim as possible at night anyway, so no flashy interior stuff for me. There are people out there that have taken apart their dash and consoles and switched all the standard instrument LEDs to other colors, or changed the lenses to other colors, but it's a ton of work and I don't have a need for all my buttons and gauges to be blue or green or whatever. If you do it, good for you.
* Turn signals need load resistors to prevent hyperflash. Don't bother looking for a replacement flasher unit, I did my research and they don't make a "plug-n-play" replacement flasher that fixes the LED hyper flash. There are people who have modified the flasher in some vehicles, but it's behind the dash and a pain just to get to. This mod would also include doing some electrical math and soldering the correct resistors in the right place. The stock bulbs are 21 watt, so I don't know why most of the sites selling load resistors only have 50watt 6 ohm resistors. They should work, but are more resistance than necessary. I got 25 watt resistors because they're smaller and will create less waste heat. You could shop around for plug-in adapters, but the one I found (http://store.ijdmtoy.com/7440-LED-Hy...s-p/aa1049.htm) accepted the lights and they stopped the hyperflashing, but the socket didn't fit properly for either front or rear turn signals. So much for it being easy. Replacing all other bulbs with LEDs will not give you a problem, they don't require any resistors, just the turn signals.
In case you're looking into replacing the side turn signals with LED (those in the front fenders) you probably are out of luck. The entire side light is a sealed unit. If you want to look at it, just slide it forward a little and you can pop it out (don't let the cable fall into the fender if you disconnect it). I saw something where a guy added a white LED to the side turn signal just so it was white when he had the parking lights on, but he didn't replace the actual amber turn signal bulb. According to the user manual it's not a user-replacable part at all, but they can be found if yours burns out: http://www.carid.com/2010-mitsubishi...s-1435584.html Other people have baked the housing so they could separate the front and back and then replaced the bulb with an LED, I think it's a 194 socket, but you'd have to check on that. As of now these are the only two exterior bulbs on my car that are not LED. Someone make an aftermarket LED replacement unit! I assume that switching these would also require resistors, but it's such a low wattage bulb that maybe the current change isn't too much to mess up the circuit and make it think there is a bulb out. You'd have to do some more research and see what others have done.
Bumper Reflector lights - custom
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Mitsubishi-...tor-sku410.htm
I haven't installed these yet, they were kind of an impulse buy and I didn't realize how much of a pain in the *** it was going to be to install them. Basically these replace the rear bumper reflectors with a set of LEDs. They have dual brightness so they can be hooked into the brake light power and act as extra tail lights and brake lights. Warning: These come with zero instructions and the instructions on the website are generic; if you're not the type to figure out how to do it, I wouldn't even attempt this. I also found that the set I got didn't have the same wire labelling (which wire is power, which wire is brake, which wire is ground) the website showed. So if you're going to wire these in, I'd recommend testing which wire is which before you tap into the vehicle electrical (for testing I found using two 9 volt batteries in series gave me plenty of power to test the LED lights without having to go get a car battery to connect things to for testing). On the set I got the wire with X's on it is negative, the red dashed wire is for brake, and the while plain wire is for normal tail light. I like the idea of these, but I haven't yet gotten the ambition to take the rear bumper off and try to figure out how to route the cable to the brake lights and tap in. In just wiring them up on a table with a 12v power supply they don't seem super bright, and not a huge difference between the on mode and the brake(bright) mode, but the pictures on the site show it accurately I think. I don't know much about it, but I also found this version of the bumper lights: http://www.twlamp.com.tw/products/pr...=3233&cid=380# which appears to have a 4th wire available to tie into turn signals.
Rear Fog light - proprietary
This may be obscure, but I found it and I'll share with everyone. Apparently the European shipped lancers (maybe just the Sportbacks) have an option for a rear fog light. I always wondered why there was a random blank panel in the middle of my bumper. Here is where you can buy one and what it looks like: http://www.japanparts.com/db/parts_d...=38&submit.y=2 The page states that it doesn't include the wiring harness and switches, so I would guess a U.S. Lancer would not have the option for this built in (I am going to look next time I'm behind the rear bumper though).
Gauge and console lights
For those wondering, no I didn't do anything with the gauge illumination or the center console. Those are stock and I'm not planning on changing anything. I prefer the inside of the car to be as dim as possible at night anyway, so no flashy interior stuff for me. There are people out there that have taken apart their dash and consoles and switched all the standard instrument LEDs to other colors, or changed the lenses to other colors, but it's a ton of work and I don't have a need for all my buttons and gauges to be blue or green or whatever. If you do it, good for you.
* Turn signals need load resistors to prevent hyperflash. Don't bother looking for a replacement flasher unit, I did my research and they don't make a "plug-n-play" replacement flasher that fixes the LED hyper flash. There are people who have modified the flasher in some vehicles, but it's behind the dash and a pain just to get to. This mod would also include doing some electrical math and soldering the correct resistors in the right place. The stock bulbs are 21 watt, so I don't know why most of the sites selling load resistors only have 50watt 6 ohm resistors. They should work, but are more resistance than necessary. I got 25 watt resistors because they're smaller and will create less waste heat. You could shop around for plug-in adapters, but the one I found (http://store.ijdmtoy.com/7440-LED-Hy...s-p/aa1049.htm) accepted the lights and they stopped the hyperflashing, but the socket didn't fit properly for either front or rear turn signals. So much for it being easy. Replacing all other bulbs with LEDs will not give you a problem, they don't require any resistors, just the turn signals.