What do you guys think of:
- WORKS SPIN flywheel
- WORKS CK2?
*LMK. When my clutch starts to go, this is what I'm probably going with. Any of you guys have these parts installed or heard about it? Pro's// Con's…

 

works has some good items, i'd still put my money on a competition clutch and flywheel as it is pretty much the same thing. that way you save some extra $ and use that money to buy more parts.

I will say works mechanics and tuners are by far some of the best at what they do who else can tune a 2.3 350hp stroker while keeping it from being a smog machine? did i mention i also average 30mpg highway?

 

Only problem I have bro, is that I'm N/A. Wouldn't getting the comp clutch/ flywheel be worthless if I do not have a significant amount of power to actually put that clutch/ flywheel to work?

 

If you are sticking with N/A without much mods, then the clutch will be plenty enough stock. I would get your old flywheel resurfaced and get a new clutch from autozone or whatever you use in the USA.

 

I have both on my Evo 8. Unless you plan to track your car like crazy, the CK2 will be overkill. There are a couple inherent traits the Kevlar disc has that will either make u love this clutch or despise it. Before I list the negatives, I will say what is awesome about this clutch: it can hold up to 450 ft/lbs of torque, yet the manners this clutch has in stop/go traffic is awesome! You can feather the clutch right at the contact point to make the car creep forward, & it will not chatter or jerk like a cera-metallic disc would. It is mind you, more grabby than the stock disc was, but you can easily control it at the contact point & still show it that you're the boss! Kevlar also lasts much longer than any other type of clutch material. Mine was installed by WORKS at 60K. 20K miles later, I installed a WORKS Stage 2 transmission in my car, & the disc upon inspection looked the same the day it was first installed! I could not see any visible wear on it! I've only street driven my car since the initial install, so in a daily driver that clutch will probably outlast the car itself.

Another great feature only WORKS can claim is virtually no increase in pedal pressure, yet the clamping load is greatly increased! After picking my car up from them, I couldn't believe that the pedal felt virtually like stock! Your left leg will thank you if you hit rush hour alot!

Now, some negatives. EVERY downshift REQUIRES you to rev-match!! If you do not, the clutch grabs INSTANTLY, & creates a violent shudder through the drivetrain as the rpm's jump forcefully to match the wheel speed. Rev-matching may or may not be a negative for you if DD for you is being in half-race mode at the minimum. Anybody that ever drove my car without practice & rev-match skills walked away with their butt kicked by the CK2. It was not a pleasant driving experience for them. After driving with this clutch for 4 1/2 years, I'm very accustomed to it, & can downshift seamlessly. When I drive in other manual cars on stock clutches it even feels awkward not having to rev-match & almost feels unnatural...

Another point worth noting, which I believe can be attributed more to the SPIN flywheel - increased drivetrain noise. Particularly, on in-gear off-throttle deceleration. Random metallic rattling & such that was subtely present in stock trim, but now is more amplified. With less mass in the aluminum flywheel, it can absorb that much less noise & vibrations, & now transmits more through audible noises. Yes, on an AWD car it may be more of an issue than a FWD car, but it is worth noting.

All things considered though (cost, product quality, competitor options, etc.) it is a fantastic clutch if you're willing to give up some comfort for the numerous benefits gained.

If I was doing it over again though, I would've gone with the CK1.. It's kinda like picking the right size turbo - choose the one that is appropriately sized for the given volumetric efficiency of your motor. Likewise, choose a clutch that is sized to address your power goals & intended use.