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Drive Axles - instillation help?

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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #1  
Eric Moll's Avatar
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Exclamation Drive Axles - instillation help?


So long story short, I've been a long time lurker on this amazing forum and have read all about my 03 OZ Rally. Now, a few weeks ago, my clutch had begun slipping and had eventually stop catching. With the help of some amazing write ups and the help of some friends, I was able to replace the clutch, got the tranny back in, and started the re-instillation process. Unfortunately, without thinking, I just wasted about 30 dollars worth of gear oil because I didn't put the axles back in yet. As soon as I saw the oil seeping out of the tranny, I stopped filling it and figured the axles need to go back in. To my dismay, they didn't just pop in as I was hoping; they were a pain to get out so why would I think putting them back in would be easy?

Basically, I tried for about a half hour trying to put the axles back in and, in the midst of immense frustration, have not been successful. So, does anybody have some techniques on how to put these axles back in? I've read my manual transmission manual but it didn't really help at all.

As always, any input is highly appreciated and thank you to whomever can provide me with some encouraging information.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 10:10 AM
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From: chatsworth
Ahhh... ive had the same dilemma popping axles back into the transmission. Is your manual or auto? Im thinking the way the axles are setup is the same for both transmissions but I may be wrong. Any who you want to find the spring clip on the axle that's resting in the groove and slide that puppy off, get your pliers and bend the retaining clip. Bend it ever so slightly so that your able to push the axle into place and have it secure to the inside. I had the enjoyment of doing this job in the rain. LOL I was forcing and forcing the axle into place luckily someone came and helped me and took the axle all the way back out, to bend that clip a little bit, and BAM it went in like butter. Just make sure you tighten the axle nut down to the proper torque spec so nothing comes loose.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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You shouldn't have to bend any clips to get the axles back in. It is pretty standard the way all axles go into a transaxle. I have done hundreds of them and probably 20 times with a lancer lol. easiest way for me is to just slide them in as far as you can then push in on the axle (so the "slack" in the axle is gone). then take a rubber mallet and tap it in the rest of the way. You shouldnt need much force on the mallet for it to pop in.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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Thanks for the input, got the axles in this morning.

However, a new problem has come up. I have the car back together now, waiting for a friend to come over and help bleed the clutch and a brake (replaced a caliper), and I decided to start my car up just to see if the MIL might light up or if any other issue shows its face... well one did. The starter is grinding on the flywheel and I am unsure of what to do. Previous to dis-assembly, everything worked fine, but now after I start it up, it sounds like the starter is grinding on the flywheel. If anyone has any advice on how to fix this or as to why this is happening (probable misalignment?), I would be very grateful. Thanks again
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Start with the most obvious first. Loosen the starter and make sure it is in there correct and not tweaked slightly. I would just unbolt it and reposition it to be sure. If you didnt remove the flywheel during this then only two things it could be is starter is not aligned or transmssion is not aligned. Its easy to pinch something between the starter and tranny and/or the tranny and engine during assembly, I have done it before so look around for that.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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hope you didnt ruin your tob. How did you start the car with the clutch not bleed? disconnect the switch?
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ryancb
hope you didnt ruin your tob. How did you start the car with the clutch not bleed? disconnect the switch?
As long as the car is not in gear the car will start just fine with the clutch in and run like normal but yeah if the tranny is in slightly crooked then could be bad news.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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I really doubt it is misaligned for the fact that all the engine mounts lined up, as did the dowel pins and the mating bolts. I really think the issue is that the starter wasn't lined up correctly. Now, I have the starter removed, is there any special way to line it up with the flywheel or should the bolts primarily spline the two parts?

Another issue, I tried bleeding the clutch, but the screw was on ridiculously tight and may have rounded the bleeder screw. I also tried removing the bleeder screw from the old slave (potentially reusing that one or getting a new one), but that screw wasn't moving either and began rounding a little bit so I stopped before I could have potentially ruined that one. I'm using an 8mm which I assume is universal on most screws, but could it possibly be in a standard size thats a bit smaller than an 8?
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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I always use 8mm to bleed the clutch on our cars. As far as the starter goes yeah if you lined up the dowels fine an it slide in easy then tranny alignment is fine likely. The starter itself there really isnt anything special about lining it up. I line up every starter the same. I slide it all the way until I know it is flush with the transmission then hold it there until the bolts are in hand tight, I dont allow the starter to drop while I am hand tightening the bolts its too easy for it get slightly crooked without notice.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 01:57 PM
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a little update, nothing great....

unbolted the starter and re-bolted it several times, making sure it felt lined up. replaced the bleeder screw on the slave cause the one that came on the new slave completely rounded out. thing was torqued on pretty tight; replaced it with the screw from my old slave. now, I wanted to test the starter, but my car isn't starting. sounds like it needs to be jumped (no crank, but hear a little electrical buzz like when my battery was dead). i'm a little confused about this though, because it is reading 12.44 volts but it has been sitting for a while however its pretty much a brand new battery.

so as I'm writing this, I'm waiting for someone to come over to help bleed the clutch (again) and probably the brake. after those are taken care of, I'm going to out the wheels back on, roll it somewhere so it can get jumped, and basically go from there. if there's anything any of you would suggest I do, post away; I really need to get this thing running.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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I would imagine just a loose connection to the battery (this does not necessarily mean physically loose, rather just a bad connection) You could try just pulling off the battery leads and cleaning the terminals with one of those nifty $2 circular wire brushes made for it.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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I tried that tho already and still sounds like it needs to be jumped.

I tried bleeding the clutch but there is not any fluid coming out. Tried over and over again, but nothing. Opened the bleeder, pressed the pedal to the floor, closed the bleeder, released the pedal, and repeat. But nothing...is there something I'm missing or is it just a long process when bleeding a new slave cylinder with prolonged exposure to the outside air (the line from the master cylinder to the slave I mean)?
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