Clutch won't disengage
Well it has been a month and I have tried to replace the master cylinder to get it to work and it just seems nothing seems to help.
My problem is this, we got a new clutch master cylinder in last night (bench bled removed all air) and then went ahead and started to bleed the system. Now we were using the "open bleeder screw, push pedal slowly to floor and hold, close bleeder screw, release pedal slowly" just as 03lances said, but we after a while of doing it this way and getting air for a while (about 45 minutes) the pedal went soft (WTF?!)... so we tried doing it by the book which is "push pedal slowly to floor and hold, open bleeder screw, close bleeder screw, release pedal slowly". With this method we got a nice firm pedal (more firm than the previous method)and got even less air so we bled it that way for about 30 minutes and then we felt like we were making progress. Took a 5-10 minute break, and when we went back to the car the clutch pedal had no pressure again... I just don't understand how I could keep losing pressure and keep getting air into the system.
Brand new clutch master and slave cylinder have been installed (along with new clutch/pressure plate). Clutch master cylinder was bench bled but the slave cylinder was NOT.
My problem is this, we got a new clutch master cylinder in last night (bench bled removed all air) and then went ahead and started to bleed the system. Now we were using the "open bleeder screw, push pedal slowly to floor and hold, close bleeder screw, release pedal slowly" just as 03lances said, but we after a while of doing it this way and getting air for a while (about 45 minutes) the pedal went soft (WTF?!)... so we tried doing it by the book which is "push pedal slowly to floor and hold, open bleeder screw, close bleeder screw, release pedal slowly". With this method we got a nice firm pedal (more firm than the previous method)and got even less air so we bled it that way for about 30 minutes and then we felt like we were making progress. Took a 5-10 minute break, and when we went back to the car the clutch pedal had no pressure again... I just don't understand how I could keep losing pressure and keep getting air into the system.
Brand new clutch master and slave cylinder have been installed (along with new clutch/pressure plate). Clutch master cylinder was bench bled but the slave cylinder was NOT.
Update: Have brought the car to a shop so we can work on a lift and have the help of a real mechanic
...turns out the (new) slave cylinder I received in my exedy clutch kit is defective. Removed it today and when we bench bled it it started leaking from the back side of the piston on the slave, mechanic of 25+ years said he had never seen anything like it. Tried it with the old slave we pulled out before installing the exedy kit (oem mitsubishi one) and it did not leak.
...turns out the (new) slave cylinder I received in my exedy clutch kit is defective. Removed it today and when we bench bled it it started leaking from the back side of the piston on the slave, mechanic of 25+ years said he had never seen anything like it. Tried it with the old slave we pulled out before installing the exedy kit (oem mitsubishi one) and it did not leak.
lol so that didn't work either....
GUES WHAT IT WORKS NOW!!! MUAHAHA
After 3 months of hell and head scratching I finally replaced the "brand new" exedy clutch and pressure plate and the car finally goes into gear. Defective pressure plate!!! OMG I am so excited I am gonna drop so much $$ on my lancer
Now I get the laugh at everyone who doubted my mechanical abilities.... btw I dropped and installed the transmission 6, I REPEAT SIX, times... on the floor of my garage, hell on earth I tell you.
GUES WHAT IT WORKS NOW!!! MUAHAHA
After 3 months of hell and head scratching I finally replaced the "brand new" exedy clutch and pressure plate and the car finally goes into gear. Defective pressure plate!!! OMG I am so excited I am gonna drop so much $$ on my lancer

Now I get the laugh at everyone who doubted my mechanical abilities.... btw I dropped and installed the transmission 6, I REPEAT SIX, times... on the floor of my garage, hell on earth I tell you.
I know this is a few months old and u already figured out ur problem but I had a similar problem when I put in my act stage 3 and used the 01 kia slave cylinder when I went turbo. I adjusted the pushrod length just a lil bit on the back of the clutch pedal and everything was fine for 6 months or so but recently I smoked the clutch in that short time. Now all I want to do is go back with the stock slave and adjust that rod length properly. Has anyone else had any problems like this over time after using this kia slave cylinder?
I know this is a few months old and u already figured out ur problem but I had a similar problem when I put in my act stage 3 and used the 01 kia slave cylinder when I went turbo. I adjusted the pushrod length just a lil bit on the back of the clutch pedal and everything was fine for 6 months or so but recently I smoked the clutch in that short time. Now all I want to do is go back with the stock slave and adjust that rod length properly. Has anyone else had any problems like this over time after using this kia slave cylinder?
Its the pushrod on the back of the clutch pedal that goes thru the firewall to the master cylinder. I tried the oem rod that comes out of the slave but that one was really short and didn't even contact the shift fork. I used the kia one and it was a lot better but I still needed a lil bit more because it wouldn't go into gear so I took the slack out of the clutch pedal by adjusting that nut on the linkage behind the pedal and it did the trick. Believe it or not I actually looked at the ACT clutch instructions and it even said that it would engage at a lower point than stock on most vehicles and in some cases u will need to remove your pedal stopper. Having to buy 2 $450 clutches in a year def suck...
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