https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=299958&page=2

3rd post down...works like a charm!

 

BTW, in your case, if your HIDs don't have a relay, and are a direct connection to the stock head lights sockets, this method is not recommended as the DRL voltage still kicks in when you turn it to parking lights on the stalk. If they don't have a relay, I would recommend buying an HID wiring harness that includes the relay and tap the relay into your parking lights. ($20 eBay) That's what I plan on doin when I get HIDs in the future. For now, I'm just happy with no DRL's

 

I just installed two 8 guage grounding wires from the battery, one going to a bolt near the ecu and one going to the ground wire for the alternator. I will let you guys know if this helps with my dimming headlights because I know it did with my sub in my eclipse. I did have an optima battery too though so who knows.

 

Meh...this is nothing new to me. I thought every car experiences some electrical power loss, especially 4cyl. cars. Well, at least it happened in my '99 Elantra and that was a 4cyl. It doesn't happen as bad in my parents v6 SUV, however...

 

I cant stress it enough a dimming of lights in normal and even with a top of the line battery some degree of dim will be present because of how your battery operates and how your battery hoperates.

This is an AC / DC operation here.

Second I wouldnt even think about attempt to upgrade your alternator cause in some cars it can cause more problems then its worth. Ask any electrical expert and they will tell you alot of thought goes into the power layout of a car. The alternator in the 2008 Lancer is normal for a car in its class, but the reason why you dont have dimming of lights when you pump the sun and sound package at Max volume is because there are a series of capacitors in the stereo amp and along the electral route that eases load flow back to the battery and altimately alternator.

The draw seen by the alternator will be constant load draw on the battery, and the Alternator will allocate the right amount of recharge juice to balance it out.

Now compare that to a car that doesnt have those capacitors in place. Tipical of alot of noob audio users and buyers, having no cap in place can lead to a premature death to your battery and a premature death to your alternator.

Un even draws of power can lead to constant power corrections in recharge and disipation. Your alternator isnt stupid but it also isnt smart enough to know what is going on. There are very few manufacturers that are designing thresholds for the alternator to follow for deciding when to send recharging current to the battery, such as 90%.

So in this second example if you just started your car and turned the music all the way up, you are very likely to see the RPM idle to start jumping around by 100 to 300 RPM points. this is because your alternator is constantly feeling the impact of these draws on your battery reserve and is constantly switching modes.

Hey I am not Electronics expert but I learned a thing or two from dead batteries over the years.

Smarter batteries help, but in this sense you should double the reserve.

My two cents