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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 09:39 PM
  #1  
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Question Help with RRM Header

Hi all,
I got my header today, and as with all of my parts, I wanted to try the install myself. I've run into a couple of stumbling blocks.

First, I don't have access to a lift, so I drove the car up a couple of ramps. Unfortunately, I don't have enough leverage to undo the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the piping because I'm 8 inches away from the bolts. I have an impact wrench, but I don't have the 19mm impact socket to undo them. I'll pick one up tomorrow and try that, but if it doesn't work, I may need a backup plan.

As well, it looks like I may have difficulty getting the manifold out of the car without removing my strut tower brace. Can I take that bar our without messing up the alignment of the front wheels?

I'm also concerned about how tight the bolts need to be torqued down to the engine block - there isn't enough room to fit my torque wrench in there. Do they have to all be torqued down accurately, or can I just get in there with my regular sockets to tighten them?

I know that a lot of people are going to tell me to go to a shop, but I'd like to leave that as a last resort. I'm kind of a hands-on type of guy.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:27 AM
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36 ft/lbs +/- 4 for the manifold and same for the connection to the pipe.

For the access, its either use the right tools, or improvise and be prepared to open a can of worms.

In other words, you could strip the head of a bolt if you dont have the socket on right. if you have wrenches, try double wrenching it. (google it) Any questions PM me and I will try to help. They shouldn't be that tight.

EDIT:

Just to check i googled double wrenching, and yeah....it may lead you in the wrong direction.

Basically you take the closed end of the wrench and put it on the bolt you are trying to loosen. Then put the closed end of another wrench (must be the same size or a few sizes bigger) over the open end of the first wrench and use it as a leverage tool. Hard to explain easier than it looks. if you dont have that, then put the wrnech on the bolt, hold it tight against the fastener, and strike it with a hammer until it moves (LAST RESORT)

REMEMBER LEFTY LOOSY

Last edited by CamShaft; Feb 26, 2008 at 12:34 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 06:33 AM
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Thanks man, unfortunately, you're telling me things I already know

I've always been leary of double wrenching or using a snipe - the tools just aren't designed for that kind of leverage. As well, there isn't enough room under the car to do it.

I hear what you're saying about using the right tools for the job - and for this job, the right tools include a proper lift, I think. I'm going to give it another try tonight, but I may have to bite the bullet and pay a shop

Oh and many thanks for the torque info!
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:05 AM
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As for the strut bar question, it has no impact on alignment. You're clear to remove it.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:12 AM
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i installed mine without a lift or ramps, it was a pain but you have to really put your weight on the bolts, i used a small cheater bar as well and it made the job easier. the hardest part for me was getting the damn heat shield out. Leverage is the key. Good luck.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 06BlackES
i installed mine without a lift or ramps, it was a pain but you have to really put your weight on the bolts, i used a small cheater bar as well and it made the job easier. the hardest part for me was getting the damn heat shield out. Leverage is the key. Good luck.
I know what you mean about the heatsheild There was much cursing and swearing.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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I ended up bending it just to get it out, there was no other way.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:03 PM
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jaws of life
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CamShaft
36 ft/lbs +/- 4 for the manifold and same for the connection to the pipe.

For the access, its either use the right tools, or improvise and be prepared to open a can of worms.

In other words, you could strip the head of a bolt if you dont have the socket on right. if you have wrenches, try double wrenching it. (google it) Any questions PM me and I will try to help. They shouldn't be that tight.

EDIT:

Just to check i googled double wrenching, and yeah....it may lead you in the wrong direction.

Basically you take the closed end of the wrench and put it on the bolt you are trying to loosen. Then put the closed end of another wrench (must be the same size or a few sizes bigger) over the open end of the first wrench and use it as a leverage tool. Hard to explain easier than it looks. if you dont have that, then put the wrnech on the bolt, hold it tight against the fastener, and strike it with a hammer until it moves (LAST RESORT)

REMEMBER LEFTY LOOSY
ROFL i was saw ur edit and i was like uh oh LOL its gonna be interesting to see the installation process...
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Hey, you guys with the header installed, is it worth the money? did you notice a gain? how does it sound? Any one got some video?
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by elpoole
Hey, you guys with the header installed, is it worth the money? did you notice a gain? how does it sound? Any one got some video?
IMO, it's the best mod i've done, definately feels like the car pulls harder, not loud at all, the intake and exhaust are louder. I would reccomend.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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From: freezer
would this be a mod i would have to take off if i turbo the car?
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by krnkimchi702
would this be a mod i would have to take off if i turbo the car?
Yes. A turbo will need a custom manifold, which should be included in a turbo kit.

Last edited by Blacksheepdj; Feb 28, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 05:31 PM
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From: freezer
all righty then... thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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From: Ft Worth
Originally Posted by elpoole
Hey, you guys with the header installed, is it worth the money? did you notice a gain? how does it sound? Any one got some video?
Yes its worth it. I love it.
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