DMS VS Moton VS JRZ VS Penske VS Koni
#61
Evolving Member
I still wonder what I can do with these rusted out $1600 DMS 40 paperweights sitting in my basement (used 1 year on an '02 WRX). I got screwed, royally. Not to **** on your thread or anything, I'm just still wikkid pissed that I sepnt that much and got 0 support way back when.
(And I know it's not your fault.. but still a legitimate gripe against the company that their past should come back to haunt them every now and then to use as a measuring stick to see how far they have come in recent times).
At the time when I bought them, there was no maintenance procedure. It wasn't until after I had been told there was no warranty on them, when months after the warranty WOULD have expired find out there would have been due to a mis understanding.. but it was now past warranty) it would cost a few hundred to 'fix' them. (aka: Should have been covered under warranty in the 1st place.)
Any suggestions what I can do with these 'Street' struts Mark?
--kC
(And I know it's not your fault.. but still a legitimate gripe against the company that their past should come back to haunt them every now and then to use as a measuring stick to see how far they have come in recent times).
At the time when I bought them, there was no maintenance procedure. It wasn't until after I had been told there was no warranty on them, when months after the warranty WOULD have expired find out there would have been due to a mis understanding.. but it was now past warranty) it would cost a few hundred to 'fix' them. (aka: Should have been covered under warranty in the 1st place.)
Any suggestions what I can do with these 'Street' struts Mark?
--kC
Last edited by KC; Apr 5, 2005 at 08:28 AM.
#62
FWIW I used the DMS50s for the better part of a year probably 2 years ago now and ran into the same kind of issues Chris did on them. I emailed Lachute a few times about it so I wouldn't say you've never heard of the problem. After regreasing ( I always used the DMS grease) they were fantastic but after say 3000 miles or so of use in all kinds of weather, I'd start getting stiction issues, it was very easy to tell when it was occurring. I did have one blow completely which Mark replaced. I don't know how that happened, I thought the bouncing of the car was due to the stiction but it turned out to be a blown strut. It was within the warranty period of a year, so it was replaced at no cost. I needed something that I could use on the street with more longevity so I ended up selling the DMS50s to another WRX guy who seems to be happy with them.
#63
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KC, I would send those DMS 40s to Mark and let him refurbish them to the latest spec. then sell them... I believe Mark can help you there too.
It's better than keeping the paper weights right?
It's better than keeping the paper weights right?
#65
KC, I offered to repair them for free of charge just over 13 months ago (I have the e-mails still if you would like me to post them) but said you had to SHIP THEM UP TO ME and pay for RETURN SHIPPING. Which was not acceptably to you. I still do not pay for shipping on any case. I can not fix what I do not have in my hands. Offer is still on the table. I will contact one of my dealers in the region and see if we can work something out with them since shipping them to me does not seem to accomodate you ....
mark
mark
#70
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we run the Club Sports on our Evo 900/1050 rears for the track as of now. awesome shock for both street and track. If they made a set for the supra I'd run them on the street all the time. most of the Porsche guys that have them run them on the track and the street. they are expensive but well worth the money imo
#73
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I currently work on cars with penske's,KW Competition,JRZ Pro series, Motons,(all7K+ systems) and like the JRZ RS series as good value $ vs preformance in the 4K+ range of course the V3 "robispec series" Street, Clubsport, and Race fit in the 2-3.5K space and the "basic" for anything under that currently(still evaluating some sub 2K systems)
If I can express an opinion...you get what you pay for in these systems..and ALL sub 1.5K systems fall into the ??????bracket still
If I can express an opinion...you get what you pay for in these systems..and ALL sub 1.5K systems fall into the ??????bracket still
#74
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I currently work on cars with penske's,KW Competition,JRZ Pro series, Motons,(all7K+ systems) and like the JRZ RS series as good value $ vs preformance in the 4K+ range of course the V3 "robispec series" Street, Clubsport, and Race fit in the 2-3.5K space and the "basic" for anything under that currently(still evaluating some sub 2K systems)
If I can express an opinion...you get what you pay for in these systems..and ALL sub 1.5K systems fall into the ??????bracket still
If I can express an opinion...you get what you pay for in these systems..and ALL sub 1.5K systems fall into the ??????bracket still
I've run the Tein RA's and was pretty happy for the $$ spent. They are DEF better than the Buddy Clubs, JIC FLTA2's and D2's. I stepped to the Tein Super Racing and the flexibility is better with comp/rebound separately adjustable, although the front stroke (especially droop) absolutely sucks. I wanted the Vishnu ohlins at that point, but everyone knows they aren't available, thats why I tried the Super Racing.
I'm still on the fence about spending 4K ish for some dampers, but they are the last real piece of the puzzle for an all out BSP build. ZZyzx, Motons and now the JRZ's are all on my list if I go shopping again.
robi, if you're looking to "sponsor" any autoxer's let me know.
John
#75
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John-
I talked with Brian at JRZ today and the RS's sell for $3,800. They are the first ones pictured with no external canisters. They are a twin tube, high pressure gas damper that is good for street and a/x. The second set that Brian recommended for a/x is the 2 way race version with the external canister. They sell for $5,300 and have more lifting force. Lifting force is felt as or described as that "planted" feeling a car has in transitions.
I've been studying a lot of info on dampers trying to figure out if I should revalve my KW-V3's or go to a true race damper. The truith is most of the stuff out there under 2k is made in China, regardless of what the manufacturer or label says.
The other damper they have that we could use is the triple-adjustable but that's over $7k. The RS Pro and some of the other dampers are really only designed for a very smooth circut track and don't have the travel that many of us need to a/x and drive on the street.
The only other choice that JRZ mentions besides their own equipment is Ohlins and Moton.
That said, I want to win so I'll be on one of three brands (most likely Ohlins) next year and nothing else. Take a look at what the GT, Grand Am and LeMans cars are running.
I talked with Brian at JRZ today and the RS's sell for $3,800. They are the first ones pictured with no external canisters. They are a twin tube, high pressure gas damper that is good for street and a/x. The second set that Brian recommended for a/x is the 2 way race version with the external canister. They sell for $5,300 and have more lifting force. Lifting force is felt as or described as that "planted" feeling a car has in transitions.
I've been studying a lot of info on dampers trying to figure out if I should revalve my KW-V3's or go to a true race damper. The truith is most of the stuff out there under 2k is made in China, regardless of what the manufacturer or label says.
The other damper they have that we could use is the triple-adjustable but that's over $7k. The RS Pro and some of the other dampers are really only designed for a very smooth circut track and don't have the travel that many of us need to a/x and drive on the street.
The only other choice that JRZ mentions besides their own equipment is Ohlins and Moton.
That said, I want to win so I'll be on one of three brands (most likely Ohlins) next year and nothing else. Take a look at what the GT, Grand Am and LeMans cars are running.
Last edited by Dave Mac; Sep 26, 2007 at 04:52 PM.