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My brake dillema -- Suggestions

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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JTB
Don't remove the dust shields -- you will melt the wheel speed/ABS sensor
I've had the heat shields off my front brakes from mile # 1000. I have 30,000 miles on the car now. 10+ events, with about half being 90F+ and averaging about 180-200 on-track miles per event. Of course, YMMV.

No problems whatsoever. I am even using zipties to hold the ABS wires to the hubs and they haven't even melted. Don't worry, safety wire is going on soon just in case.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 04:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I've had the heat shields off my front brakes from mile # 1000. I have 30,000 miles on the car now. 10+ events, with about half being 90F+ and averaging about 180-200 on-track miles per event. Of course, YMMV.

No problems whatsoever. I am even using zipties to hold the ABS wires to the hubs and they haven't even melted. Don't worry, safety wire is going on soon just in case.

I haven't experienced this either -- just a recommendation I received from Chronohunter. I guess it really depends on how hard you use your brakes
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #33  
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
Originally Posted by JTB
just a recommendation I received from Chronohunter. I guess it really depends on how hard you use your brakes
Of course. I do use my brakes hard. My current pads are the first ones that actually work for me. I have a bad habit of staying on the brakes too much that I am trying to overcome. They get just a bit toasty.

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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 07:24 AM
  #34  
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hmm... guess I'mma try the forge coolers first.. if that doesn't work I'll be quite mad.. and broke lol. Can anyone tell me of a better deal than this:
4 cryo'd slotted powerslot rotors
4 ss brake lines
2 (front) Hawk HP+
and 2 bottles of motul 600
all for $655 shipped

should/can I upgrade to 2 piece for slightly more? If so, which brand? how much more to still get pads/rotors(/calipers if they come with) and fluid?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #35  
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
Originally Posted by honki24
hmm... guess I'mma try the forge coolers first.. if that doesn't work I'll be quite mad.. and broke lol. Can anyone tell me of a better deal than this:
4 cryo'd slotted powerslot rotors
4 ss brake lines
2 (front) Hawk HP+
and 2 bottles of motul 600
all for $655 shipped

should/can I upgrade to 2 piece for slightly more? If so, which brand? how much more to still get pads/rotors(/calipers if they come with) and fluid?
I would stay away from the powerslot rotors. They don't hold up very well to track abuse. A track buddy killed a set in 1 day at the track.

Check these out. They supply Centric rotors (just bought stoptech), they are a GREAT deal and hold up to track abuse. A couple norcal trackers are using them and I will be using them.

*******************/
Front and Rear Blank rotors for $230 shipped
Front and Rear Slotted $280
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:28 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I would stay away from the powerslot rotors. They don't hold up very well to track abuse. A track buddy killed a set in 1 day at the track.

Check these out. They supply Centric rotors (just bought stoptech), they are a GREAT deal and hold up to track abuse. A couple norcal trackers are using them and I will be using them.

*******************/
Front and Rear Blank rotors for $230 shipped
Front and Rear Slotted $280
Wow bump for a hot deal! All 4 corners for less than a single OEM rear rotor from
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I would stay away from the powerslot rotors. They don't hold up very well to track abuse. A track buddy killed a set in 1 day at the track.

Check these out. They supply Centric rotors (just bought stoptech), they are a GREAT deal and hold up to track abuse. A couple norcal trackers are using them and I will be using them.

*******************/
Front and Rear Blank rotors for $230 shipped
Front and Rear Slotted $280
wow, you got robbed or something...

I ordered the ones from rotorpro's...blanks for 250 shipped (all 4).

I'm still running the rears, because they weren't that bad, but the fronts man, whew, worse than your spider cracks... I simply tore them up, seriously.

I'm now running pf 2 piece fronts, and they're far superior, imho.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #38  
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WarmPepsi, what pads were you using to tear up the front rotors?

I was planning to buy the rotorpro rotors to use for my rears.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by marksae
WarmPepsi, what pads were you using to tear up the front rotors?

I was planning to buy the rotorpro rotors to use for my rears.
endless CCR's.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:29 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
wow, you got robbed or something...

I ordered the ones from rotorpro's...blanks for 250 shipped (all 4).

I'm still running the rears, because they weren't that bad, but the fronts man, whew, worse than your spider cracks... I simply tore them up, seriously.

I'm now running pf 2 piece fronts, and they're far superior, imho.
How did I get robbed when I bought them for $20 cheaper then you for all 4?

I have been through 2 sets of PF 2piece rotors already.

Last edited by razorlab; Jun 12, 2006 at 03:32 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
How did I get robbed when I bought them for $20 cheaper then you for all 4?

I have been through 2 sets of PF 2piece rotors already.
hahaha!

i mis-read what you said, i thought the first line said fronts, and the second said rear

it very well might have been 225-230, i honestly don't remember. Thanks for catching the error.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 05:04 AM
  #42  
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well... given that warmpepsi has gone through a set of those rotors too... I think I'll try the cryo'd version of the powerslots. My non cryo'd powerslots stood up to alot... just that hot day at CMP warped em... as a matter of a fact I think I can still turn em and use em as backups. But no doubt that's a good deal for those rotorpros. All the serious racers I talked to who saw my nuked brake system suggested cryoing my rotors... but since I cant find a reasonable place to source liq. nitrogen I'll just buy the cryo'd ones, and I'll try to find some nitrogen for the current ones after I turn em. (Razorlab: you get over 301 whp w/ that ecu+ yet? ... I know you can do 315 safely. I did.)
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #43  
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
Originally Posted by honki24
(Razorlab: you get over 301 whp w/ that ecu+ yet? ... I know you can do 315 safely. I did.)
On 91 octane? I have actually done 308whp on a mustang dyno that reads much like Buschurs but I brought it down a bit just for safety. I do 320whp on 100 octane safe open track tune.

I am actually using Ecuflash now with ECU+ used as knock protection, logging and for 100 octane.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:52 AM
  #44  
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oh, awesome. Yeah I use 93 oct. I'll continue this PM..
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 12:50 PM
  #45  
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Back from the dead..... I'm about to take my EVO9 back to the same track that I killed my previous EVO8 brakes on.

I'm sticking with stock brownbos, Carbotech XP12s, and Motul 600.

But......

I'm seriously considering picking up a set of dedicated 2 piece track rotors to go with my dedicated track pads. I figure instead of dropping $100 on titanium shims and $100 on mitsu brake ducts I could just stick that money into a better rotor.

Its been nearly two years since I've researched rotors. I'm hoping some of you have done my homework for me. Basically I'm all about bang-4-buck. I don't need the absolute best but I want something better than stock.

Can any of you provide a solid recommendation for a 2 piece that won't break the bank?
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