Tranny Fluid
I ordered my Dia-queen LSD oil from: http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/
Very fast shipping and good prices...thumbs up!
I beat the snot out of my car and use penzoil sychromesh in the tranny. I change it every 10k miles. I've been a tad worried that its a little thin for 95* track days but I haven't had any problems.
Very fast shipping and good prices...thumbs up!
I beat the snot out of my car and use penzoil sychromesh in the tranny. I change it every 10k miles. I've been a tad worried that its a little thin for 95* track days but I haven't had any problems.
from what I hear, in the 6sp 1st 2nd and 3rd gears are just as strong as in the 5 speed. it's only 4th, 5th and 6th which have a reduction in size/strength. to fit into a space/weight specification, obviously.
which is why you are seeing many 4th gear 6sp failures on how power output track and drag cars.
this is pretty normal, 6 sp close ratio boxes are not quarter mile kings theyre for tight circuits and if youre going open track racing surely youd build the box to suit anyway. geat a gearset that is designed to live on redline and be shifted into hard with twin and triple plate clutches with no slave cylinder restrictors!!
have the 6 speeds that failed, had their slave cylinder restrictors still fitted or not?
bear the above in mind when ripping **** on the 6sp. I think youll find 1st 2nd and 3rd gear runs i.e. most street driving, and so long as you Dont JAM it into 4th and shift hard with a heavy clutch (be aware higher gears arent as strong) then do that until you can afford a heavy gearset for the higher gears...hell try and buy a 4th 5th and 6th only replacement set maybe.. bet no one sells them tho
Trav
which is why you are seeing many 4th gear 6sp failures on how power output track and drag cars.
this is pretty normal, 6 sp close ratio boxes are not quarter mile kings theyre for tight circuits and if youre going open track racing surely youd build the box to suit anyway. geat a gearset that is designed to live on redline and be shifted into hard with twin and triple plate clutches with no slave cylinder restrictors!!
have the 6 speeds that failed, had their slave cylinder restrictors still fitted or not?
bear the above in mind when ripping **** on the 6sp. I think youll find 1st 2nd and 3rd gear runs i.e. most street driving, and so long as you Dont JAM it into 4th and shift hard with a heavy clutch (be aware higher gears arent as strong) then do that until you can afford a heavy gearset for the higher gears...hell try and buy a 4th 5th and 6th only replacement set maybe.. bet no one sells them tho
Trav
Originally Posted by razorlab
That's funny you say that because two MR owners here in the bay area have burned and warped forks and sleeves in their 6spd and they both where using stock fluid.
Void also had this problem and he was running the stock fluid at the time as well.
Honestly from what I have seen, experienced and heard, the 6spd is a big pile of ****.
Void also had this problem and he was running the stock fluid at the time as well.
Honestly from what I have seen, experienced and heard, the 6spd is a big pile of ****.
5 is stronger than 6 but i give
more time to strengen them
On a side note about fluid, I bought some of the Motul Gear 300. I know people are
nervous cause of the exact equivalent GL-4 rating. Now being motul is GL4/GL5 I
thought I would perform a test to see if it attacked yellow metal (really the only negative I
could see in using this fluid). I got my hands on a evo syncro which is yellow metal.
I was going to put the syncro in a container submerged in motul to see what it does over
the next few months while the evo is sleeping for the winter. Good idea or not? Any
suggestions?
nervous cause of the exact equivalent GL-4 rating. Now being motul is GL4/GL5 I
thought I would perform a test to see if it attacked yellow metal (really the only negative I
could see in using this fluid). I got my hands on a evo syncro which is yellow metal.
I was going to put the syncro in a container submerged in motul to see what it does over
the next few months while the evo is sleeping for the winter. Good idea or not? Any
suggestions?
Originally Posted by Mike01gsr
On a side note about fluid, I bought some of the Motul Gear 300. I know people are
nervous cause of the exact equivalent GL-4 rating. Now being motul is GL4/GL5 I
thought I would perform a test to see if it attacked yellow metal (really the only negative I
could see in using this fluid). I got my hands on a evo syncro which is yellow metal.
I was going to put the syncro in a container submerged in motul to see what it does over
the next few months while the evo is sleeping for the winter. Good idea or not? Any
suggestions?
nervous cause of the exact equivalent GL-4 rating. Now being motul is GL4/GL5 I
thought I would perform a test to see if it attacked yellow metal (really the only negative I
could see in using this fluid). I got my hands on a evo syncro which is yellow metal.
I was going to put the syncro in a container submerged in motul to see what it does over
the next few months while the evo is sleeping for the winter. Good idea or not? Any
suggestions?
Originally Posted by marksae
That sounds like an interesting test. I'm curious about that as well. Although I wonder if the chemical attack occurs at ambient or at operating temperatures.
Originally Posted by Mike01gsr
I've also thought about that, but not sure how I could add that into the test.
Check with Motul and let us know ....
Can some tell me if this is the best idea for tranny fluid. Regardless of price. And if so i need to know what the best fluid for the rear end and TC would be. Yes i read the entire thread and from what i gather this is one of the best. I just want some more opinions.
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
Originally Posted by V.8MR
.
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
Gear 300 for the tranny ONLY.
The Gear comp( formally FF) for the t-case and rear diff. The gear comp is for lsd the gear 300 is not
Last edited by kreionic; Nov 20, 2006 at 02:16 PM.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
Can some tell me if this is the best idea for tranny fluid. Regardless of price. And if so i need to know what the best fluid for the rear end and TC would be. Yes i read the entire thread and from what i gather this is one of the best. I just want some more opinions.
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Transmission)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (Rear End)
-GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Oil (TCase)
purchased it, it came up it's not a true GL4 but a GL4/GL5 fluid. GL5 fluid although
Superior to GL4 does contain additives that can attack yellow metal. I could never
find a exact answer on whether or not it does I just wanted to make sure you
were aware. I'm gonna use it but i'm not sure if I'm going to use it straight or
a mix with stock fluid. Good luck!
This is what i found from the Motul Websites forum.
Original Post:
Gear300 and GL4 vs GL5 specification
Greetings. Nissan specifies for N14 Pulsar/Sentra/Sunny 2.0GTi gearboxes gear lubricants with GL4 specification. It has been reported that due to some "brass synchro components" in the gearbox, GL5 speced lubricants may contain brass-unfriendly additives and result in long-term damage to the synchros. Does this apply to Gear 300? Thanks.
Responce:
Gear 300 and GL-4 vs GL-5
Our Gear 300 75W-90 is at the level GL-5, so the amount of sulfur based EP additives is quite important. Most of our customers are using GL-5 formulations on gearbox requesting GL-4, and we did not have any negative feed back or complaints. So I do not see any problem using the 100% synthetic Gear 300 75W-90 on this Nissan gearbox.
Original Post:
Gear300 and GL4 vs GL5 specification
Greetings. Nissan specifies for N14 Pulsar/Sentra/Sunny 2.0GTi gearboxes gear lubricants with GL4 specification. It has been reported that due to some "brass synchro components" in the gearbox, GL5 speced lubricants may contain brass-unfriendly additives and result in long-term damage to the synchros. Does this apply to Gear 300? Thanks.
Responce:
Gear 300 and GL-4 vs GL-5
Our Gear 300 75W-90 is at the level GL-5, so the amount of sulfur based EP additives is quite important. Most of our customers are using GL-5 formulations on gearbox requesting GL-4, and we did not have any negative feed back or complaints. So I do not see any problem using the 100% synthetic Gear 300 75W-90 on this Nissan gearbox.






