Comprehensive Evo STU prep thread?
The relative ride heights are probably more important due to the effect of the roll-centers for each end of the car. The Subarus employed the same effect of a lower rear roll-center to aid turn in...and that's all I know...
Last year I went a half inch lower in the front over the stock rake difference and my consensus was that the car didn't like it at all. The weight seemed to instantly want to transfer up front and would cause the car to plow. This year I went back to the stock rake differential and the car is better as it wants to transfer weight to the back, especially during corner exit.
Bridgestone RE-01R users:
Without giving away the farm, what pressures have you found worked the best? Have you found you have to run lower during the first run to generate heat?
Please post the tire size, rim size, surface, and weather conditions.
For example: on asphalt with the 615s, I found that I had to run around ~40 psi for 245/45/17 on a 8.5" rim to get the required sidewall stiffness and stave off roll. When I moved to a 9" rim, I could run 3-4 psi less with the same tire. Same stiffness, datalogger showed grip went up.
thanks
d
Without giving away the farm, what pressures have you found worked the best? Have you found you have to run lower during the first run to generate heat?
Please post the tire size, rim size, surface, and weather conditions.
For example: on asphalt with the 615s, I found that I had to run around ~40 psi for 245/45/17 on a 8.5" rim to get the required sidewall stiffness and stave off roll. When I moved to a 9" rim, I could run 3-4 psi less with the same tire. Same stiffness, datalogger showed grip went up.
thanks
d
I just ran an event last weekend with air temps in the 70s, I forget track temp. Using my pyrometer I started low, 36/38 but, ended up running 41/43. I think the fronts actually could use a little more psi, say 41.5 or 42.
Tires are obviously 245/45/17s on 9.5 rims.
Tires are obviously 245/45/17s on 9.5 rims.
d
Is there any legal STU aftermarket clutch out there thats stronger then the OEM one?
My clutch took a dump on me this weekend and I really dont feel like putting another OEM one in there.
My clutch took a dump on me this weekend and I really dont feel like putting another OEM one in there.
Yeah, I use the higher pressures in the for that extra bit of rotation and I'm running Robispec'd KW Variant 3s, which I am still trying to setup.
Don't even tell me that
I was torn between the KWs and the Zzyzxs last year but, the Zzyzxs weren't available yet. I am running 9kg up front and 8kg in the rear. What rates on your Zzyzxs?
I was torn between the KWs and the Zzyzxs last year but, the Zzyzxs weren't available yet. I am running 9kg up front and 8kg in the rear. What rates on your Zzyzxs?
Unfortunately NO ... this is one of my issues with this class, its supposed to allow all common street mods but doesn't allow clutch upgrades. I'm sure its to avoid having people upgrade to 4 puck or 6 puck racing clutches or even twin disk clutches but some simple wording in the rules could amend that ... oh well.
How come your clutch is busted but Kevin has no problems and launches his stocker with 285's like it's going out of style?



That's cool I understand. Hopefully he'll chime in or at least PM me.