Comprehensive Evo STU prep thread?
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm still on the fence if I'm going to jump on the Bridgestone bandwagon. One thing I like about the neovas is that wheel width doesn't seem to be that big of a deal and I may have to go to a 17X9 with the Bridgestones. I'd hate to give up on my Kosei's, I like the 15.5 lb. weight that's for sure!
I've found from the first 3 events that the REO1Rs like much higher pressures all around then the 615s, upwards of 43 psi per pyrometer readings. I am running aggressive front camber as well along with toe settings.
For track days/time trials I have been starting out way lower, 30 to 33, as they heat up fairly quickly but, they seem to plateau at a certain point and hold psi's that I want, which is awesome.
I didn't have mine shaved as I drive on them everyday plus I do track days/time trials along with the Solo stuff so I wanted them to last as long as I can. I have no complaints of running them at full tread although I suspect the tread squirm would be a little bit better if they were down to 3 or 4/32s but, the tread squirm is barely noticeable
Overall I love the REO1Rs and they are way better than the 615s, which I really like last year.
For track days/time trials I have been starting out way lower, 30 to 33, as they heat up fairly quickly but, they seem to plateau at a certain point and hold psi's that I want, which is awesome.
I didn't have mine shaved as I drive on them everyday plus I do track days/time trials along with the Solo stuff so I wanted them to last as long as I can. I have no complaints of running them at full tread although I suspect the tread squirm would be a little bit better if they were down to 3 or 4/32s but, the tread squirm is barely noticeable
Overall I love the REO1Rs and they are way better than the 615s, which I really like last year.
I've found from the first 3 events that the REO1Rs like much higher pressures all around then the 615s, upwards of 43 psi per pyrometer readings. I am running aggressive front camber as well along with toe settings.
For track days/time trials I have been starting out way lower, 30 to 33, as they heat up fairly quickly but, they seem to plateau at a certain point and hold psi's that I want, which is awesome.
I didn't have mine shaved as I drive on them everyday plus I do track days/time trials along with the Solo stuff so I wanted them to last as long as I can. I have no complaints of running them at full tread although I suspect the tread squirm would be a little bit better if they were down to 3 or 4/32s but, the tread squirm is barely noticeable
Overall I love the REO1Rs and they are way better than the 615s, which I really like last year.
For track days/time trials I have been starting out way lower, 30 to 33, as they heat up fairly quickly but, they seem to plateau at a certain point and hold psi's that I want, which is awesome.
I didn't have mine shaved as I drive on them everyday plus I do track days/time trials along with the Solo stuff so I wanted them to last as long as I can. I have no complaints of running them at full tread although I suspect the tread squirm would be a little bit better if they were down to 3 or 4/32s but, the tread squirm is barely noticeable
Overall I love the REO1Rs and they are way better than the 615s, which I really like last year.
Davemac, Adam:
I also have RE01R's running on 17x9.5 RPF1 shaved, Cold air pressure front is 37 and rear is 32 with 1/8 inch toe out and -2.75 front camber and -1.5 rear. I had all kinds of trouble at Fedex Saturday. The turn-in was fast with a lot of oversteer, and during the slalom the transitions were harder to control; it feels like the steering is too slow. My car felt a lot better when running 0 toe and 17x9 +27mm Team Dynamics + RE01R with the same air pressure unshaved. Is the toe setting the culprit or I just don't know how to drive?
I will post some Evo pictures from TEAMWTF tomorrow in another thread. I envy all you guys running CE28N's and really fast times!
I also have RE01R's running on 17x9.5 RPF1 shaved, Cold air pressure front is 37 and rear is 32 with 1/8 inch toe out and -2.75 front camber and -1.5 rear. I had all kinds of trouble at Fedex Saturday. The turn-in was fast with a lot of oversteer, and during the slalom the transitions were harder to control; it feels like the steering is too slow. My car felt a lot better when running 0 toe and 17x9 +27mm Team Dynamics + RE01R with the same air pressure unshaved. Is the toe setting the culprit or I just don't know how to drive?
I will post some Evo pictures from TEAMWTF tomorrow in another thread. I envy all you guys running CE28N's and really fast times!
Danny-
I think the rear toe out was your "main" contributor to oversteer. I'm only running .1 degrees rear and 0 in the front. Your rear air pressures were quite low and also added to your oversteer moments. I may try going down to 34psi at the next event to get some more rotation too. I had great turn-in with fairly consistent corner exit understeer. I think once I add my rear bumpsteer correction kit it should help.
I don't know that I'd recommend to tune out too much of the oversteer you had. I would recommend only making a very small change to your toe setting, maybe dial out 1/16 inch and raise your rear tire pressure to 33 or 34 psi. It should keep your car in a more neutral mode.
Part of your difficulty on Saturday was staying in front of the car. If you had lots of oversteer it means you were over-correcting a lot which led to you wagging the tail of the car. Stay WAAAAAYYYY ahead of the car, these things gather speed to fast to get "behind".
I think the rear toe out was your "main" contributor to oversteer. I'm only running .1 degrees rear and 0 in the front. Your rear air pressures were quite low and also added to your oversteer moments. I may try going down to 34psi at the next event to get some more rotation too. I had great turn-in with fairly consistent corner exit understeer. I think once I add my rear bumpsteer correction kit it should help.
I don't know that I'd recommend to tune out too much of the oversteer you had. I would recommend only making a very small change to your toe setting, maybe dial out 1/16 inch and raise your rear tire pressure to 33 or 34 psi. It should keep your car in a more neutral mode.
Part of your difficulty on Saturday was staying in front of the car. If you had lots of oversteer it means you were over-correcting a lot which led to you wagging the tail of the car. Stay WAAAAAYYYY ahead of the car, these things gather speed to fast to get "behind".
Dave, what camber/toe settings are you running? I am funning -3 F with 1/16th total toe out and -1.25 R with 0 toe. I am also running NTO3+Ms with a +44mm offset along with 10mm front spacers and 4mm rear.
I haven't messed to much with the damper settings either on my KW Variant 3s. Maybe or spring rates are different as pyrometer readings 43 psi front and 40 to 41 psi ave worked great at both Warminster and Boeing. Boeing I tend to run even higher as the course is basically a go-cart course.
I'd be curious to know what suspesion you are running along with your spring rates, unless that is top secret ;-)
I haven't messed to much with the damper settings either on my KW Variant 3s. Maybe or spring rates are different as pyrometer readings 43 psi front and 40 to 41 psi ave worked great at both Warminster and Boeing. Boeing I tend to run even higher as the course is basically a go-cart course.
I'd be curious to know what suspesion you are running along with your spring rates, unless that is top secret ;-)
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
Thanks Davemac, I will change the alignment settings and tire pressure for the autox school coming up in two weeks and report the findings.
I am running 17x9.5 RPF1 with 20mm spacers in front. I am wondering if that will contribute to slower steering reponse in the slalom. Does the wider front track help much?
Also, during the sweepers, I actually heard some metal "clanking" noise on the back end. I check the rear suspension after I got home and everything seems to be torqued correctly. Just wondering if anyone know what the noise might be: rear bumpstop? or rear swaybar?
Thanks!
I am running 17x9.5 RPF1 with 20mm spacers in front. I am wondering if that will contribute to slower steering reponse in the slalom. Does the wider front track help much?
Also, during the sweepers, I actually heard some metal "clanking" noise on the back end. I check the rear suspension after I got home and everything seems to be torqued correctly. Just wondering if anyone know what the noise might be: rear bumpstop? or rear swaybar?
Thanks!
The wider front track gives you more stability and grip up front, it should not really make your car slower to respond.
I don't think that your steering was any slower, I think you're not used to such a transtion intensive course. You just got behind the car.
I don't think that your steering was any slower, I think you're not used to such a transtion intensive course. You just got behind the car.
I had the exact same issue in my SM Evo on Saturday. Great turn-in, fairly neutral in sweepers, stable in slaloms, but it wanted to push under power on corner exit, which really hurt getting on the power early out of those 180s.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
I had the exact same issue in my SM Evo on Saturday. Great turn-in, fairly neutral in sweepers, stable in slaloms, but it wanted to push under power on corner exit, which really hurt getting on the power early out of those 180s.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
From what I understand, it effectively eliminates, or at least, reduces the amount of bumpsteer occurs, allowing (I believe) your toe and camber to stay closer to what your target is rather than allowing rear camber reduce negatively and possible into positive camber. Same goes for your toe settings.
I may be wrong as I am by far not a suspension genius but, I believe I am in the ball park.
I had the exact same issue in my SM Evo on Saturday. Great turn-in, fairly neutral in sweepers, stable in slaloms, but it wanted to push under power on corner exit, which really hurt getting on the power early out of those 180s.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
How would a bumpsteer correction kit help that? Does it effectively give you more toe out with suspension compression than you'd have without it?
Thanks.
.I'm on the fence about the rear bumpsteer correction. Chronohunter has said he tested it and found added understeer and I am beginning to think the same thing. My car was not as pushy last year in certain parts of the turn and this year I am testing rear toe out and higher rear rates and getting more push than in the past. Only big factor is dying tires.
I'll be removing mine and running again to see the results.






