Comprehensive Evo STU prep thread?
I'll add some fuel to the fire then if this is subjective. 
The black evo with identical set-up was running g-force readings of 1.05 sustained and 1.08 peak. That car was run in the afternoon like ours. The only difference is it's on Yokohamas. Our car, run in the same heat was 1.10 sustained and 1.18 peak. I was the driver on both of the compared runs.
The black evo with identical set-up was running g-force readings of 1.05 sustained and 1.08 peak. That car was run in the afternoon like ours. The only difference is it's on Yokohamas. Our car, run in the same heat was 1.10 sustained and 1.18 peak. I was the driver on both of the compared runs.d
What's iffy about it? It's a pure polyurethane bushing like all the others but the metal sleeve's hole is offset. I can provide evidence the metal content is less then OEM. And 14.8 part B of the rules says "offset bushings may be used".
I actually don't think mine is doing any good. I suspect the bushing is currently offset in the wrong direction for my application because I seem to have a harder time getting my toe right then another Evo with a similar setup. I wouldn't recommended it unless you have issues setting your toe.
I actually don't think mine is doing any good. I suspect the bushing is currently offset in the wrong direction for my application because I seem to have a harder time getting my toe right then another Evo with a similar setup. I wouldn't recommended it unless you have issues setting your toe.
One other thing, what is the decision on rear strut bars for cars not equipped with them from the factory. I thought they are allowed so long as they only have 2 connecting points but, have heard that this is still up in the air.
As for the rear. What's the point? As chronohunter would say "There's no struts back there."
d
I would agree with that, but the only difference in adjustment is the bushing is offset which the rules state is legal; so until someone comes up with a valid reason (maybe there is one, I'm not an expert) I don't think it's fair to call them iffy.
I'm not understanding why the WL bumpsteer correction kit on the rear of the Evo would ADD understeer when the point of the kit is to eliminate it. What gives? Did some of you install them the wrong way?
The design of the WL bumpsteer kit or any bumpsteer kit for that matter is to minimize the natural suspension toe-in under compression, or should I say, gain back what is lost when the car is lowered. I know of no bushing bumpsteer kits that completely eliminate it. Ideally, a perfect-world bumpsteer kit would cause a little bit of toe-out during compression, at least in autocross, to help rotate the car. It might make it loose, but that can be tuned out.
The WL kit raises the front control arm at the body point, again, only to gain back what is lost. IMHO, it does not raise it enough, but that is the limit of the OEM suspension parts.
One thing though, when installed, you loose some of the movement to bring back toe-out to a respectable position. On mine, driver side was fine installed per directions, passenger side needed a slight bushing rotation/adjustment for a proper setting.
Properly installed, it should not cause the car to "understeer".
Dave
The WL kit raises the front control arm at the body point, again, only to gain back what is lost. IMHO, it does not raise it enough, but that is the limit of the OEM suspension parts.
One thing though, when installed, you loose some of the movement to bring back toe-out to a respectable position. On mine, driver side was fine installed per directions, passenger side needed a slight bushing rotation/adjustment for a proper setting.
Properly installed, it should not cause the car to "understeer".
Dave
I love them. Considering the really high spring rates we are running the car rides incredibly well. They have lasted too with no problems what-so-ever. I have logged 51+ thousand miles on them in my car. They are easy to dial in and in my opinion very competitive nationally for an autocross coil-over. Next season we will be doing some time attacks in the car so we will see how they hold up to the riggors of a track but I have no worries.
The design of the WL bumpsteer kit or any bumpsteer kit for that matter is to minimize the natural suspension toe-in under compression, or should I say, gain back what is lost when the car is lowered. I know of no bushing bumpsteer kits that completely eliminate it. Ideally, a perfect-world bumpsteer kit would cause a little bit of toe-out during compression, at least in autocross, to help rotate the car. It might make it loose, but that can be tuned out.
Dave
Dave
Dave are you sure about that? From what I read the bumpsteer kit just keeps the toe in check when the suspension is compressing. A lot of suspension tuners say you want the toe to be in check as the suspension moves through its range of motion. The EVO has a natural tendency to toe out under sever compression (per Chronohunter) in the rear, the bumpsteer kit just helps dial out some of that toe under rear compression so that the car is not as "darty". So it a way it should promote a little more understeer while keeping the toe in check.
I love them. Considering the really high spring rates we are running the car rides incredibly well. They have lasted too with no problems what-so-ever. I have logged 51+ thousand miles on them in my car. They are easy to dial in and in my opinion very competitive nationally for an autocross coil-over. Next season we will be doing some time attacks in the car so we will see how they hold up to the riggors of a track but I have no worries.
I drive my car 6 hours one way for Milwaukee events which I've done about 4 times this year, plus a trip to Indy. Even with no engine mods my co-driver and I have been PAXing quite well at fairly competitive Milwaukee events. The coilovers are a HUGE part of that.