i have to agree. ive been looking around for decent pad to use. my hps are good for the first couple runs but its hard for me to trust them later on. im going to lok into these r4s pretty soon.

 

To you and everybody else, if you're looking for autoX pads, make sure you look for the R4-S, not the R4. The R4 is a race pad and probably not suitable for autoX.


After using the R4-S on the Evo, I put a set on my Volvo. They're really overkill for what the car is used for (commuting), but they do give eye-popping stopping power, and they give less visible dust than the stock pads.

 

Are the R4-S made by Porterfield?

 

yep

 

how much camber is to much?

or does it not matter? only reason i ask is becuase i'm currently running -2.5 degrees and was thinking about taking it up to the -3 area to help clear the fenders w/ my setup, i'm running 17x9 RPF1 w/ a 20mm spacer and 275's and it doesnt want to clear the fenders very well, and i really dont want to have to have them pulled either, is -3 degrees too much for autox?


thanks in advance

 

I run -3. I use mine for autox and road course. I have noticed that braking distances have increased when going up to -3 due to less tire contact patch when in a straight line.

 

I also have -3, but I reduce it between autocrosses to save my street tires.

 

It depends on the tires really. I would think -2.5 is not enough...-3.0 certainly isn't too much unless you have tires that don't like camber.

I also use -3.0 for both road racing and autox.

 

awesome

tires are V700's btw

so should i stay somewhere between a -3 to -3.3 or something?

 

At -3 front camber, autocrossing I was getting way more heat on the outside edges of the tires regardless of tire pressure. More camber definitely evened out temp spread across the tire and made the car faster and way more consistent. How much more over -3% will depend on what spring/bar you're running or how much control you have on body roll.

 

thanks for all the info/help guys


what do you think i should set the toe to? its currently at 0

should i toe in/out any?

 

which is why -3 is probably too much negative camber. I run aproximately -2.8 degrees which is a decent comprimise.

When I ran -3 I noticed the same behavior.

 

Agree. When I ran -2.6 or so it seemed to be about perfect for autox. Since I do just as much road course racing as autox I now keep it at -3. For those that switch your camber when you aren't racing...be careful, you are not just changing your camber, it significantly affects your toe. My alignment shop strongly discourages doing it with the Evo. With some cars such as BMW's it can be done though.

 

Has anyone actually measured this?

Lets say you move your front camber in from -3* to -1.5* (by using upper camber plates) -- how much toe will you gain or lose???

BTW, just looking at the suspension, it appears you will affect toe LESS by adjusting camber at the upper camber plates vs. the lower camber bolts. . .

EVOlutionary

 

i really haven't been a contributor to this thread at all and dont want to go and read through all 30 pages but i am going to get into it now. you can see my setup and i am going to national's this year in fact just booked my hotel room and i need to get registered. is it true that i need a front and rear bumper support bar to compete in sm?
who all is going to national's?

so the tire that i am going to be running is a 275/40/17 kuhmo v710 on a enkei nto3+m b/c i cant afford any bigger.
what advice do some of you national's guys have for me as you can see my mod list, on the way are some gsc s1 cams and i will be running 108 octane gas. would a cf trunk be allowed in sm?