That is the way I would interpret it. However, if you attached something to make it also funtion as a splitter, then you would go by the splitter sizing rules. Makes sense eh, no undertray alone, but you can run a huge custom splitter/undertray combo??

Once again, JMHO . . .

EVOlutionary

 

Hi guys,

I don't want to hijack this phenomenal thread (I've read all 31 pages -- full of great stuff), but I have a wheel/tire fitment question that I think is appropriate as I believe others would appreciate knowing the answer in the context of this thread. I've seen you guys recommend (and run on your own cars) the 5Zigen FN01R-C wheels with large width tires and I'd like to order some for my own car.

I'm currently prepping my car for possible competition in the 2007 Evo Tuner Shootout in Vegas, and further time attack competition after that, but it is also my daily driver. My question is this:

With this current setup:
2003 Evo VIII
Centric rotors and stock calipers
Megan Racing Coilovers (Apexi N1 Clone)
No rolled fenders (yet), no widebody kit

Could I run these with no rubbing or fitment issues:
5Zigen FN01R-C 18x9.5+35 or 18x8.5+30 Wheels
Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 285/30/18 Tires or 265/35/18 Tires
Kics 10mm (or other size?) Spacers -- only if needed

And should I? I'd say my priorities are 70% maximum track effectiveness and 30% street driveability.

I'm hoping Clay, Rich, Mark and others can chime in.

Best,
Adam

 

I ran the FN01R-C 18x9.5 with 285/30/18 Advan Neovas for street tires all last year. You will prob. need a 5mm-10mm spacer in the front and you will most definitely have to roll the rear fenders. You may even have to relocate the 1 bolt that hold the bumper to the quarter panel (inside the wheelwell). This is an awesome street setup as well as track worthy. Highly recommended (although the 5Zigens are on the heavy side).

EVOlutionary

 

Thanks a ton for your advice, EVOlutionary. Would you think spacers would be required in the rear, or simply fender rolling? Last thing I want to do is shred some nice new wheels or tires for lack of adequate clearance work. The bolt idea makes sense. Any other tips?

Without getting ridiculously more pricey, is there a lighter wheel you'd recommend with this setup?

Thanks a bunch,
Adam

 

I'd do the 18X9.5s with spacers (front only), but it will require fender rolling (front and rear probably), which shouldn't deter you if you want to build up your car to be fast.

Doesn't the EvoM Shootout have a limit of 275s for tires? I haven't looked at the rules recently, but I thought that was the restriction as well as 100 treadwear. Because of that, I'd go with 275 NT01s if they are available unless you only plan to use street tires, in which case the 265/35/18 AD07s sound like a great idea.

 

No spacers in the rear.

I will let others comment on the lighter, inexpensive rims as I have only tried the FN01R-C in 18x9.5.

 

Yeah, I use the Enkei NT03+M +40 like many others, and they weighed in at 19.5lbs each when I put them on my scale. These require a 25mm spacer up front, no spacer in the rear, major rolling up front, minor rolling in the rear. I mount them with 285/30-18 V710s and see slight contact on the rear control arm occasionally.

 

Rollling in the front?? Never heard of that before? How do you roll the front? Do you roll the lip out or in?

I guess a +40 with a 25mm spacer would effectively be a +15! Sounds like you need some Garage HRS front fenders!!

So on your setup the face of the rim sticks out ~106mm from the hub face. On my setup (10" rims) it sticks out about 105mm and I've never had a problem . . . . maybe it's just differences in the design of the wheel or something.

EVOlutionary

 

I thought rolling the fronts was normal? Isn't that what most people do? You just do the same thing as in the rear - roll the lip upwards. I needed a lot of it up front, but only a little in the rear. The setup I have is the normal for many people without needing to upgrade the fenders.

 

Interesting. In the rear you have a lip that is about 1/2" wide. I've always had to roll it ALL the way up, 180* bend, plus push the fender out another 1/2" or so by where the fender and bumper seam is.

In the front, I don't even remember there being a lip. If there is, it's like less than 1/4" wide isn't it? Do you take out the plastic fender liner, or just rub through it??

 

Yeah, there's a lip up front, and mine points straight up now, but I did not push out the fender or anything. It is very difficult to do them right, because they are aluminum, so they bow out with the slightest amount of pressure. It took 4+ hours to do them without cracking paint or causing ripples in the metal.

I still have the plastic liner, and it only rubs in one place at full lock, so I don't worry about it.

 

My rear is rolled and pulled just like Evolutionarys. I also did a slight roll in the front. For me all I did was make the lip angle upward a little. I also still have the plastic liner. There was also a spot in the front liner that got wore through and exposed some body seam metal that I hammered back a little. I'm also running the Hoosiers though which have a 1/2" wider section width.

 

We'll be running Hoosiers this weekend for the first time on this car. We'll see if we have have enough clearance (I HOPE SO!)

 

Thank you guys for the great points -- and I hope your Hoosiers have the clearance they need this weekend EVOlutionary.

I have never rolled fenders and don't have a rolling tool but I'm guessing my friends here in DC at Auto Body Craftsmen / Revisions (Mark Figliozzi) can help me with that, as I've actually got some body work needed anyway and will be sending my car in to them.

What do you guys think about going with the Yoko Neova 265/35/18's on 18x9.5+35 FN01R-C's as opposed to the 285/30/18's? Will this require more or less rolling and fender "adjusting?"

You're right Clay that 275 is the max for the EvoM shootout, I just noticed, thanks for the tip. :-)

I haven't found a fantastic price yet on the 5Zigens or the 285/30 Neovas, but it looks like I can get the 5Zigens and a set of 265/35 Neovas for $2432 shipped from DiscountTireDirect-dot-com. If anyone has a better source, please do let me know :-).

Best,
Adam

 

I'm running 18x9.5s (FN01RCs) with an effective +25 offset and no front rolling, but the clearance is very tight with 285 V710s and -3 camber. I did roll the rears and they just barely clear with -1.5 camber.

At kekek's suggestion, I pulled the spring out of one front and one rear coilover and tested the clearances through the full range of motion at my autocross alignment setting. That's really the best way to make sure things fit. Hoping for the best at the first event is not the optimal approach!!!

Ad-Rok, rolling fenders is something that takes a lot of finesse and patience to do without damaging the paint. And sometimes the paint gets damaged even when you are patient. Most (all?) of the cars I've looked at up close with rolled fenders have cracked paint (to varying degrees) from the rolling. Revision/Mark's car is no exception. Check it out up close where the rear fenders curve under and you'll see what I mean. Also, it's very easy to crease the fenders. I did that by accident on one fender and at the Pro last week I saw that Daddio's and Winchester's cars had the exact same crease on one rear fender (and we even all had it on the driver's side). If you don't need to do it, and you may not need to with 265s and sufficient rear camber, then I would avoid it.