i have no idea on the offset but i am guessing that it is standard for the nt03 the guy mentioned that he would include spacers so i am guessing that the offset is what you guys are saying, how much neg camber and what spring rates will i need to run this set up? as of right now i have -2.5% and 8k front and -1.8% 9k rear

 

Camber is not a percentage, but I think you'll want closer to -3.0. However, that's only for race use - it should be around -1.5 when daily driving. Do you drive 24/7 on your race alignment?

 

Bingo! You can fit a wheel that has a +12 offset, +20, +32, +35, +40, all depending on the size and design of the wheel. It has alot to do with how the "spokes" of the wheel curve out from the center hat to the outer rim. That's why one wheel in XXX size and offset will fit and another wheel with the same specs needs a spacer in the front.

5Zigen FNO1R-C in 17x9+35 fit perfect with no spacers needed. The only reason you need a spacer with that wheel in the 18x9.5 size is because of the extra width the tire will hit the shocks.

So, there's 2 different things that can cause you to need a spacer - wheel design and tire width (rubbing on the inside).

As for the gearing issue, the 285/30/18 is proven to be a better autocross tire. The 275/40/17 may be a better road race size, and IS a better choice for drag racing. I ran a faster trap speed on the 275/40/17 than on the 285/30/18, even though I had alot more power and less weight.

EVOlutionary

 

Here is an instruction manual I wrote up:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=fit+275

The search engine knows all

 

Matt, I've seen your thread, but even seeing it, I didn't believe you'd get away with no rubbing when at full lock and in extreme conditions, such as when you're road racing.

 

damm dude, you should have asked... I would have said that it works just fine...

My clearance issues were strictly due to the spoke design on my rims (buddy club p1qf rims)

When ever my budget allows it, I plan on picking up a new set of 18x10 rims and switch to the 285/30/18, not for clearance, but for the gearing advantage.

my tire budget is not going to like it.

 

yes, I don't change my alignment when at the races. I also don't run -3 degrees camber either because it negatively affects your braking and acceleration.

 

You sure about that?

I'm starting to find that -3.0 is a good starting point not a ceiling. I get some front inside wheelspin, but it's more a function of droop travel/lack of helper spring than anything else. Braking is just fine too.

I used to think a few people were nuts with their camber settings (Kevin and Mark) but after trying it I'm not going back. Front end grip is just fantastic and the "negative" aspects just aren't there. Not enough to be a real detraction anyway.

John

 

chrisw wrote: " I also don't run -3 degrees camber either because it negatively affects your braking and acceleration."
This is a good point, as I see that the trend is toward having temperature spread across the tire and fitment dictate what camber we run. Although they are important factors they should not be the only factors as an even temp spread might make you slower due to braking and acccelaration losses. Grassroot motorsport just did an article on the subject and optimal temp spread was slower than a less optimal set up due to wheel spin and reduce braking. My point is that on 275/17 the front did not like -3 camber at all (might also be tire size dependant) and going with less camber improve the car's behavior tremendously. I'm curious to know what camber/tire size you guys run and what influenced it?

 

I disagree, because I think the benefits of the camber far outweight the braking and acceleration negatives. In fact, I haven't noticed any braking negatives. My braking improved tremendously with the suspension upgrade itself (stock was at -2.0), but it is possible that it's not QUITE as good as if I had it at -2.5 or so. However, the tremendous improvement in braking from when I had stock suspension is good enough for me. I also didn't notice any acceleration difference when going from stock suspension + BBS rims (17lbs) + 245 V710s + -2.0f/-.5r to Ohlins + Enkeis (19.5lbs) + 285 V710s + -3.0f/-1.0r. I gained 6 seconds on the same track. Obviously, I should have gained a lot, but again, any acceleration/braking loss from -3.0 camber is more than made up for through the extreme grip and turn-in.

Chris, what have you been doing this year? I noticed you stopped participating after event #2 in SFR.

 

The longer braking distances, at -3 deg, for me aren't noticable on the road course. They ARE noticed autox'ing though.

 

yah i daily drive it at -2.0 and i always get % and degree's mixed up lol sorry. so i will need -3 for them to fit?

 

Yep, can't you see the green dot?

I waited abt 5-6 weeks for it--got it direct from FP...

 

I ran 275 40 17s Victoracers (narrower than V710s) on 17x9 FN01RCs +35s with a 5mm spacer up front. I wore through my front fender liners in a hurry. With my current 285 30 18 V710s on 18x9.5 FN01RC +35s w/10mm spacer, there is no rubbing at full lock that I can tell. Also, I kept my ride height on the high side with the 275s for clearance and I don't need to with the 285s. Finally, the car just looks better with 18s

 

exactly.

To answer your question warrlton, I newly house poor so to speak... I had all the budget put together for a serious effort into another SM championship, and maybe a shot at a podium finish in the tour, but the stoopid monkey saw the shinny object (the house) and well... you know how it goes