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Pikes Peak or bust!

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Old May 21, 2008 | 12:55 AM
  #166  
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Just send me those Ohlins :]
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Old May 29, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by DaveK
Here are pics of the kevlar underbody protection getting bonded to the underside of the chassis. For those of you wondering, why is there kevlar on the underside of the car there are two reasons:
can I ask where to get the kevlar sheet material from please? This would be preferable to the pre-formed arch liners that are available. Thanks - and great car. Good luck with the racing.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by vikingboy
can I ask where to get the kevlar sheet material from please? This would be preferable to the pre-formed arch liners that are available. Thanks - and great car. Good luck with the racing.
I bought it from a shop that sells rolls of raw fiberglass, kevlar, & carbon fiber. I just did a google search to find the shop, though I can't remember where I got it from. I could only find one shop that had any in stock in the US at the time, so I bought all they had, ~60yds. It really only takes about 20yds to do a car, so I've got some left-over. I'm sure the international shipping wouldn't make it worth buying what I've got left...but if anyone stateside needs some, let me know.

Dave
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Old May 29, 2008 | 10:12 PM
  #169  
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Tapp plastics carries it in stock pretty much constantly. Look em up

RallyDSM
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 11:47 AM
  #170  
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Another busy week comes to an end. Lots to report on this time around.

First up, we would like to announce another 2008 sponsor, Checkpoint Racing. We have been racing for years alongside the shop owner, Mitch. A number of the parts used in our build have come from Checkpoint. They have a huge inventory of seats, harnesses, helmets, fire suits, fire systems, intercoms, pedals, etc...basically anything needed in terms of safety equipment to get a race car up and going. They've also got a pretty good inventory of racing related DVDs. Please check them out and tell them you heard about their shop from his involvement in our Evo!

We got the car back on Friday afternoon from one of our other sponsors, ACE Transmissions (located in Colorado Springs 719-205-2662). Brant, the owner, installed the new Exedy Twin disc, Cusco RS diffs, AMS moustache bar eliminator, and lightweight front cross member (all sourced from AMS).

On Saturday afternoon, I put Redline Heavy Shockproof oil in both the transfer case and rear end, hoping for a pretty aggressive lockup. MT-90 found its way into the transmission, and seemed to work pretty well. Sunday morning found me back under the car again installing the new suspension. Unfortunately the Cusco camber plates weren't compatible with the Ohlins, so I ended up modifying the factory top mounts slightly so that everything fit properly. We also got a few of the AMS and Ace Transmission logos on the car, so its finally starting to look like a proper race car (pics to come later).

Sunday afternoon we headed out to CORE to get in a little bit of dirt testing. I wanted to get a baseline on the Ohlins TTX/TPX suspension, as they come with the recommended settings from Ohlins. I put ~40 miles on the car in a few hours, slowly working up to the limits of the car, getting used to the suspension, brakes, and diffs. The big lesson of the day is that I've still got some holes that need to be filled, as big dusty powerslides seemed to fill the interior of the car quite quickly.

Dave

Last edited by DaveK; Jun 2, 2008 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:24 PM
  #171  
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A good trick is to get the car up on jack stands in the garage, put someone inside, with duct tape to mark the holes, someone under the car with a drop light, turn out the lights and shine it all around and look for the pinholes of light. The guy inside marks the spots and when you've got them all marked/covered and can't see any more, turn all the lights back on and get busy.

Easy, eh?



RallyDSM
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:58 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by RallyDSM
A good trick is to get the car up on jack stands in the garage, put someone inside, with duct tape to mark the holes, someone under the car with a drop light, turn out the lights and shine it all around and look for the pinholes of light. The guy inside marks the spots and when you've got them all marked/covered and can't see any more, turn all the lights back on and get busy.
I'll have to try that. I already went thru with some grey silicone and filled all the bolt holes and other spots that jumped out at me. The amount of dust coming in wasn't a bit here and there, it was more of a 'holy crap, where'd that cloud come from' type of dust. The area that concerned me was when I'd open the back doors, there was literally 1/8" of dust sitting on the door sills. When I put the car back together, I left the seals on the doors (outer seals), and pulled the inner seals and sill panels, figuring that the outer seal would do the trick.

How do you have your car setup in this regard? Did you leave the 'ventilation flaps' on the car (those trapezoid shaped one way flaps that keep your ears from popping when you slam the doors)?

Dave
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #173  
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I still have mine in the car but my intention is to buy and use the rear window filters instead. They allow for the proper balance and ventilation but allow you to seal up the factory vent flaps. They are also filtered so the dust isn't bad. Plus, where they are, the slip stream of the car pushes the dust away from entering.

Of Course, you could just take the poor man's way around that... Keep the your window cracked until AFTER you shut the doors like I do now

If you do the light shining process I mentioned and find no more holes, then it is likely the factory vents that is causing the issues.

One other thing... I had my floor pretty well sealed and once I had the car fill up with dust regardless. Turns out that one of the rubber grommets in the Fire Wall near the steering column had popped out. I digested most of that event before I found the problem.

Good Luck!

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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #174  
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I just realized another potential cause for the dust. I currently don't have side skirts on the car. I'm wondering if they do some work in helping to seal the door against the frame? If nothing else, it'll make the dust travel one extra bend before entering the area under the door.

Dave
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 04:39 PM
  #175  
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Could be.... I drove a Talon TSi without skirts that didn't seem to fill up with dust. My TSi had skirts but a similar amount of dust.

EVOs may be different though... twice as many DOORS.

Put both seals in and see if it makes any difference.

RallyDSM
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 05:31 PM
  #176  
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I just looked at the car rather closely, and while I think the side skirts could help, I think my problem is that the doors don't appear to be sealing properly. At the back edge of the rear doors down at the bottom, the sheet metal doesn't match up smoothly with the leading edge of the rear quarter panel. Its the same on both sides. Everything looks good along the top edge and front edge of the doors, just looks a bit off down near the back and bottom. Any suggestions...I'm guessing this isn't 'normal?'

Dave
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #177  
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Suspension pics!
Attached Thumbnails Pikes Peak or bust!-66-ohlins-front.jpg   Pikes Peak or bust!-67-ohlins-rear.jpg  
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by DaveK
The Tilton balance bar master cyl. assembly arrived on Friday and looks great. It will allow for me to make in-cockpit adjustments to brake bias, and we're getting rid of the pesky brake booster.
Dave, is there any chance we could get some more details on this from you please - part numbers and how you made it fit in between the existing pedals and calipers

thanks in adv
Ian
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #179  
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I must say, I think I'd rather hang that suspension up on my wall than to have it trashed in the car.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by DaveK
I just looked at the car rather closely, and while I think the side skirts could help, I think my problem is that the doors don't appear to be sealing properly. At the back edge of the rear doors down at the bottom, the sheet metal doesn't match up smoothly with the leading edge of the rear quarter panel. Its the same on both sides. Everything looks good along the top edge and front edge of the doors, just looks a bit off down near the back and bottom. Any suggestions...I'm guessing this isn't 'normal?'

Dave
I'll take a look at mine when I get back to the shop... I can't say I remember mine looking like that back there but then again... I haven't looked.

Does light bleed through during the "dark" test?

BTW... I just LOVE your new suspension.

Envy, envy, covet, covet.

I'll be living with DMS myself... so we've started off on uneven terms. You got the suspension... but I got the... er... um... well, whatever it is, I got it!

RallyDSM<
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