Track Day Aero Package
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
On a separate note, I don't understand the concept of the adjustable canards. IIRC canards do not produce downforce like a front splitter. They are used to control the airflow along the side of the car. I guess the adjustable set would be ok to dial in the aero initially, but once you have settled on an aero kit, the canards should become fixed - i.e. no need for an adjustable set.
l8r)
l8r)
If you're going ***** to the wall, which it sound like you are, go for a front underwing with venting of sorts after the wing (can be routed out through the fenders). A crude version can be pretty readily made out of aluminum and should produce some good results coupled with the flat bottom.
Sounds like this car is going to look like the tin man when you are done with it :P
Devin
Sounds like this car is going to look like the tin man when you are done with it :P
Devin
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I may actually build a lot of it out of plastic.
The side skirts will basically be side splitters (flat sheet) running the full length, sticking out maybe 2 inches. Those will be plastic, polypropylene or ABS. I'm leaning towards PP because it's impact resistant and flexible. I could actually roll up the parts and ship them in a normal sized box. These are really a pain in the butt for daily use as they are always in the way as you get in and out of the car. My wife hates the small ones I have on my car near the wheels at the moment, they get hit by shins from time to time. So for that I want to stick with plastic. If you accidentally step on them they just bend and pop back into place. That what's great about PP. Ramming your shin into an aluminum plate would hurt like hell.
The rear diffuser may also be plastic, I haven't made up my mind yet. But a thermoformed plastic part would be strong, light, and less $$$ than carbon fiber. The diffuser is going to require cutting out the rear bumper so people would need to be ok with that. There's no reason to build a diffuser if you don't remove some bumper and transition the air out from the bottom.
The flat bottom could also be plastic. The only concern is heat around the exhaust. But I could use a little aluminum just down the exhaust area.
Still trying to make up my mind.
I've got a wild idea for doing some rudimentary air flow testing of some parts today. If it works I'll post pictures.
The side skirts will basically be side splitters (flat sheet) running the full length, sticking out maybe 2 inches. Those will be plastic, polypropylene or ABS. I'm leaning towards PP because it's impact resistant and flexible. I could actually roll up the parts and ship them in a normal sized box. These are really a pain in the butt for daily use as they are always in the way as you get in and out of the car. My wife hates the small ones I have on my car near the wheels at the moment, they get hit by shins from time to time. So for that I want to stick with plastic. If you accidentally step on them they just bend and pop back into place. That what's great about PP. Ramming your shin into an aluminum plate would hurt like hell.
The rear diffuser may also be plastic, I haven't made up my mind yet. But a thermoformed plastic part would be strong, light, and less $$$ than carbon fiber. The diffuser is going to require cutting out the rear bumper so people would need to be ok with that. There's no reason to build a diffuser if you don't remove some bumper and transition the air out from the bottom.
The flat bottom could also be plastic. The only concern is heat around the exhaust. But I could use a little aluminum just down the exhaust area.
Still trying to make up my mind.
I've got a wild idea for doing some rudimentary air flow testing of some parts today. If it works I'll post pictures.
I only said aluminum because of the ease of creating a prototype airfoil shape out of it or just working with it in general. Granted, ABS can be just as easy pending the type.
As per the full-length undertray, just use heat resistant ABS with some insulation in key places and you should be just fine. If you want to step it up from there for some peace of mind, you can use glass-filled/flame retardant ABS, but I'm sure it is going to be a good deal more expensive. A few heat transfer calculations and you should be able to figure out if you are going to be in danger of a plastic mess or not.
Keep it up
Devin
As per the full-length undertray, just use heat resistant ABS with some insulation in key places and you should be just fine. If you want to step it up from there for some peace of mind, you can use glass-filled/flame retardant ABS, but I'm sure it is going to be a good deal more expensive. A few heat transfer calculations and you should be able to figure out if you are going to be in danger of a plastic mess or not.
Keep it up
Devin
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Rear Wing Gurney Flap.


It has two heights, simply flip it over. I had to pull the sensors off my car and put the good suspension back on for a track day mid week, so I don't have data on it yet.
I've also finished the rear bumper venting, I'll get pics when I wash my car...
And I have one side of the full length side skirts installed, I'll finish tonight. They come all the way into the main chassis boxed section so with both sides installed it makes almost half the underside perfectly flat!! I'll get pics of that when I finished.


It has two heights, simply flip it over. I had to pull the sensors off my car and put the good suspension back on for a track day mid week, so I don't have data on it yet.
I've also finished the rear bumper venting, I'll get pics when I wash my car...
And I have one side of the full length side skirts installed, I'll finish tonight. They come all the way into the main chassis boxed section so with both sides installed it makes almost half the underside perfectly flat!! I'll get pics of that when I finished.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Like I said in the post above I have no data yet, I took the stock suspension which included the sensors off my car. I have a track day on Wednesday and need the KW's back on the car. I'm going to try and gather some lap time data at the track.
I finished the side skirts tonight and they are sweet. In combination with the rearward extension I'm putting on my front splitter (pulling it back to the rear most chassis brace near the downpipe) I'll only have a section down the middle directly under the exhaust to fill to finish the flatness to the rear axle. I'm going to try and finish this weekend so the car is totally flat on the bottom up to the rear axle. Then I can work a rear diffuser and finish off the underside.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
3 AM post FTMFW-Biatch! FLAT BOTTOM EVO TIME
Just finished up and it is pretty sweet. Here's the run down:
- Extended the APR splitter back to the chassis braces. Used aluminum sheet. I welded supports and captive nuts unto the chassis braces so it just bolts up.
- Full length plastic side skirts that stick out roughly 2 inches and come in under the car to the boxed frame.
- Center section, aluminum sheet slightly bent to create clearance for exhaust.
The car is now TOTALLY smooth to the rear axle/gas tank area. I just need to build a rear diffuser now.
Here are some pics.




Just finished up and it is pretty sweet. Here's the run down:
- Extended the APR splitter back to the chassis braces. Used aluminum sheet. I welded supports and captive nuts unto the chassis braces so it just bolts up.
- Full length plastic side skirts that stick out roughly 2 inches and come in under the car to the boxed frame.
- Center section, aluminum sheet slightly bent to create clearance for exhaust.
The car is now TOTALLY smooth to the rear axle/gas tank area. I just need to build a rear diffuser now.
Here are some pics.




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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Maybe. It's the main thing I'll be looking into in terms of negatives. I've got temperature probes ready. I made a post in the show and shin and everyone is wigging over "heat"...



