Track Day Aero Package
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I plan on lots of track time this up coming season though. I've kinda given up on trying to produce the parts though - I'll just be testing for my own pleasure.
could I ask a stupid question... what thickness aluminum did you use?
I'm building my own splitter as my APR one ripped off on part of an oval on a track we have down here in socal.
I've heard people mention alumalite which sounds promising except I can't find anyplace that sells it...
I'm building my own splitter as my APR one ripped off on part of an oval on a track we have down here in socal.
I've heard people mention alumalite which sounds promising except I can't find anyplace that sells it...
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
could I ask a stupid question... what thickness aluminum did you use?
I'm building my own splitter as my APR one ripped off on part of an oval on a track we have down here in socal.
I've heard people mention alumalite which sounds promising except I can't find anyplace that sells it...
I'm building my own splitter as my APR one ripped off on part of an oval on a track we have down here in socal.
I've heard people mention alumalite which sounds promising except I can't find anyplace that sells it...
The thread below (linky) talks about the modifications to my APR splitter. I bonded .063" 5052 aluminum to the stock APR splitter and then mounted it to the chassis with brackets on the radiator support and cables.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...er-action.html

I've been following ur various threads pretty closely. Impressive and inspiring...
I have considered your method. .063 is roughly 14 gauge. how did you come to 5052? How does it compare to 6061 or 6063? Given I've already got an apr splitter it seems a logical way to go. My concern would be flex. If you were to get your car up to max speed, do you think flex is an issue? Given the way your support cables work I'd think not...
I've never seen alumalite but I've read about it. Seems like pretty thin sheets of alum but a friend of mine was raving about it when he saw it.
I've thought about laying my own fiberglass but working with fiberglass is about as much fun as taking a bath in sandblaster...
I have considered your method. .063 is roughly 14 gauge. how did you come to 5052? How does it compare to 6061 or 6063? Given I've already got an apr splitter it seems a logical way to go. My concern would be flex. If you were to get your car up to max speed, do you think flex is an issue? Given the way your support cables work I'd think not...
I've never seen alumalite but I've read about it. Seems like pretty thin sheets of alum but a friend of mine was raving about it when he saw it.
I've thought about laying my own fiberglass but working with fiberglass is about as much fun as taking a bath in sandblaster...
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
5052 is common grade aluminum. 6061 is stronger and stiffer, by nearly two times, it also costs about twice as much. My decision came from the fact that I had a piece of .063" 5052 sitting in my garage.
Overall I'm happy with that grade and thickness. I used rivets along with the adhesive to make the bonding robust. I've done unplanned bulldozing with it and it hasn't even had a problem holding together. It has already seen 3 track days and 135 mph speeds without issue. The overall bonded structure doesn't flex much at all- it's stiff.
Getting it mounted to the chassis is really the key.
Overall I'm happy with that grade and thickness. I used rivets along with the adhesive to make the bonding robust. I've done unplanned bulldozing with it and it hasn't even had a problem holding together. It has already seen 3 track days and 135 mph speeds without issue. The overall bonded structure doesn't flex much at all- it's stiff.
Getting it mounted to the chassis is really the key.
5052 is common grade aluminum. 6061 is stronger and stiffer, by nearly two times, it also costs about twice as much. My decision came from the fact that I had a piece of .063" 5052 sitting in my garage.
Overall I'm happy with that grade and thickness. I used rivets along with the adhesive to make the bonding robust. I've done unplanned bulldozing with it and it hasn't even had a problem holding together. It has already seen 3 track days and 135 mph speeds without issue. The overall bonded structure doesn't flex much at all- it's stiff.
Getting it mounted to the chassis is really the key.
Overall I'm happy with that grade and thickness. I used rivets along with the adhesive to make the bonding robust. I've done unplanned bulldozing with it and it hasn't even had a problem holding together. It has already seen 3 track days and 135 mph speeds without issue. The overall bonded structure doesn't flex much at all- it's stiff.
Getting it mounted to the chassis is really the key.
guess I should fire off an epoxy order...
thanks again
All the sweet bro's in the show and shine section are hating on the exposed contrasting color rivets. These parts are really for the track-guys as anybody can go get a set of static carbon fiber canards if they just want to look tough.
The adjustability is what sets these apart.
Do the you track guys want black rivets also so they blend in...
The adjustability is what sets these apart.
Do the you track guys want black rivets also so they blend in...
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I haven't been able to get time to test them. Really they are there more as a tuning mechanism for when the setup is kinda finished up and just the little details remain. I still need to finish the GT wing and rear diffuser. Once that is done I'll install the downforce measuring sensors and fiddle with stuff. Probably won't have that all done until next year, as I'm running out of track days this season. All the clubs I run with kinda stop after August, at least at PR, which is lame. I'll probably head down to Portland or ORP in September/October.
There are factory threaded holes on the vertical areas of the radiator core support on the frame (think above the ends of the IC). I don't use them, but you could create a bracket that mounts there and then hangs down to pick-up the splitter. Voltex does it I believe.
Sounds good. Chassis mounting I'm not to worried about. I can tig as well, even thin alum and I think I've come up with a scheme somewhat similar to yours except with less reliance on the radiator support as a mount point.
guess I should fire off an epoxy order...
thanks again
guess I should fire off an epoxy order...
thanks again
Last edited by jid2; Aug 20, 2009 at 02:53 PM.
I haven't been able to get time to test them. Really they are there more as a tuning mechanism for when the setup is kinda finished up and just the little details remain. I still need to finish the GT wing and rear diffuser. Once that is done I'll install the downforce measuring sensors and fiddle with stuff. Probably won't have that all done until next year, as I'm running out of track days this season. All the clubs I run with kinda stop after August, at least at PR, which is lame. I'll probably head down to Portland or ORP in September/October.
There are factory threaded holes on the vertical areas of the radiator core support on the frame (think above the ends of the IC). I don't use them, but you could create a bracket that mounts there and then hangs down to pick-up the splitter. Voltex does it I believe.
There are factory threaded holes on the vertical areas of the radiator core support on the frame (think above the ends of the IC). I don't use them, but you could create a bracket that mounts there and then hangs down to pick-up the splitter. Voltex does it I believe.
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