At 323 WHP, I have enough horsepower in my 3500 pound pig to pass 90% of cars in most advanced run groups with the exception of a handful of Z06s, well driven GT3s, and a number of other near-supercars that I have no business even keeping up with. While I can understand wanting more power, I certainly don't think any more is really necessary unless you're building a car for a class of competition. Plus, I don't have to deal with the heat and reliability issues that arise with larger turbochargers.

Just my 2 cents.

 

All of the above posters are correct....

- It depends on the skill of the driver, the type of track, etc.
- the more power, then the more you need safety equipment
- and, suspension upgrades, motor mounts, etc.

It's a slippery slope. I started off with a lightly modded Evo 8 with 325 whp.
I thought that was enough for the first year.
Now I have full suspension, racing seats, harnesses, full cage, FP Red, cams, etc, etc.
Mine does 460whp on 93 pump gas, and that's more than enough power for the track and still a decent DD.

At these power levels, now I'm considering more tire grip, aero, and suspension upgrades... not power upgrades.

 

Hey DeMoNz,
being a fellow racer from Toronto, what are you planing on doing with the car? I'll be racing in a 2008 Evo X in the Canadian GT Sprints in GT2 class sponsored by Four Star Motorsports. With 425 whp i should sit nicely in the 28's at Mosport, or at least thats what i was getting with my STi.

 

I find the 2.3L and GT3076R to be very nasty, it has instant spool coming out of corners, it builds the full 28 psi of boost by 3900 rpm in 3rd gear. The GT3076R can make up to 550 whp no problem. But a CBRD TAK33RB is an even better turbo - which is what I will move to in the future, it makes more power at the same boost levels.

I've seen a lot of FP stock frame turbo failures on road race cars. They are very nice turbos in terms of spool and power but reliability is sketchy. But some people seems to have good luck with them - I think it's the real big power red/black that have more issues.

Basic bolt-ons will get you where you want to be in terms of power to start off with, and keep it reliable. My car always has problems, and always needs to be worked on, it has too many aftermarket parts.

You need to put in good brake fluid (ATE or Motul), and get some real pads, the stock pads are not so good. Your tires, wrenching desire, and driving style will factor into how aggressive to go on pads - track pads like Raybestos ST43's or Hawk DTC-60's are very nice. You also need some cooling ducts because the EVO is a heavy pig and gets the brakes hot!

 

Right. Once you get to the point where the pads and brake cooling ducts aren't
cooling your brakes... or you split a rotor on the track like I did (see pic below)... then you are outdriving your brakes.

Then do what I did...

355mm 6 piston StopTech big brake kit, and you'll never look back !!

 

Holy bejeezuz!

 

i plan to do maybe 300whp for the first year and go on the track a couple of times in the summer. i plan to stop modding my evo power wise by the time i hit 450whp...supporting power,suspension, braking mods are a given...i have only went tracking once and it was in my front heavy 4g eclipse v6 GT


so what are FP stock frame turbos usually used for, if not for road race? i thought FP turbos were one of the many reliable ones...what would you recommend for me? i want a turbo that has potential at 500whp, and i will only make at most 450whp, so i dont blow my turbo as fast

thats ****ed up............................

 

What I know is that the Red has had bucket loads of failures on road race cars. The Green seems to be OK, as well as Mitsu stock turbos and CBRD turbos. I think the Red's are pushed too hard and the oiling system on them is very picky about having constant pressure. I know smackevo, KevinD, and O-town-fla have destroyed Red's in road race use. Smack, and KevinD's shop have been through more than a few - all those guys no longer use FP stock framers on road race cars....

T3 turbos seems to be less sensitive to oil pressure drops. CBRD makes the TAK33R which spools like a 30R and makes 35R power - they use it on all their Time Attack cars. It's a T3 turbo, and can be used with a variety of kits like ETS, Shearer, Full-Race etc...

 

.

I blew up my Gen-1 FP Red Turbo last August at the track on Day-2 at Summit Point, WV.

The problems with the Gen-1 Turbo was it couldn't withstand the constant load of
track duty. The other problem is the supplier and installer had no clue I also
needed a high-flow oil kit for the turbo for track use. Your installer must know
what he is doing and have experience with these turbos. And by all means,
install the high-flow oil kit.

I replaced my toasted Gen-1 with the Gen-2 FP Red with the high flow oil kit and
have had no issues since. Actually, the car rocks !!
My understanding is that all the kinks have been worked out of the Gen-2 model.

The spool-up on the Red is hard to beat. And, by all means, have a pro shop do the
work and have a conservative tune done on a Dyno...
and not by the butt-a$$ method !
You need to have the correct mapping and air-fuel ratio for your car.

.

 

Hopefully your Red continues to work well and dominate - they make great power with unbeatable spool-up. o-town-fla's Red was Gen 2 with the oilfeed kit I believe.

 

I think the reason why so many people (including myself) were suggesting smaller stock frame turbos (like the Green and the BBK) is the fast spool up. The Red is a great turbo, and I think they ironed out all the kinks in the Gen-2 version, especially with the High flow oil feed. I use the high flow feed on my green also, just in case, and to keep the warranty current. I just think the red is a little laggy on a regular 2.0 when you drop it in. You can change that a little with some port work, but I still feel like the Green or the BBK Full are the better bet here. That is unless, OP, you plan on upgrading and changing your displacement in the near future. I can make up to 390 on 93 octane, so with a solid tune, on 94 you might be able to hit 400. 400 on pump, 500 on E-85 or race gas (maybe a little more) is a blast to drive on the streets, and you keep the reliability of the car, but can drive it to an auto-x course and beat on people, handily.

EDIT: Also, a little food for thought; my tune and a lot of my parts are conservative. The HKS cams can be upgraded to some Kelfords and see some gains, the TB and Intake mani are still stock, and it goes on.... You can get more out of the turbo, but as everyone here said, I want to have my car around for a long time. So I am keeping it dialed back, to 475ish awhp. You have to watch with the HTA-Green though, down low it is a torque monster. It hits you HARD when the spool starts, and with the stock rods especially, with an aggressive tune and high boost, you have a possibility of throwing one.

Cheers

 

Now do you trailer it to the track?

 

If you're new to track and new to the car, stock is enough power for a track Evo, especially if it's also your daily driver. I really don't understand modding a car for more power, more grip, whatever if you're not a good enough driver to exploit it. The last thing a person new to track needs is more power.

 

You already stated you want to stay on the stock block , 450whp is fairly unreasonable to be road racing with on the stock block , yes its perfectly fine for a 11 second run down the strip but 20 minute lapping sessions at your local HPDE and you can say bye bye to your reliability YOU WILL BREAK STUFF , its harder on your cooling, (oil and coolant) , which is also harder on your turbo , at that power level your brakes are being pushed past their maximum stopping ability, you will overheat these at well , your tranny is going to hate you especially the 6speed MR version....

I have the ability to make mid 400 horsepower on my car using the MAP SST turbo ,, when i attend these events I usually run no higher then 22 psi with race gas in the tank and that would put power levels in the 360-380whp range.

If your a good driver and have good rubber you will own 99% of the cars that arent trailered to the track even on your stock suspension , There are little to no reasons to have more power then that at lapping days ,, if your doing time attacks different story , but then you wouldnt've bought an MR anyways then .

 

let me know if you need any info or if we can help!

cheers

cb