The Redline Time Attack "street" class cars are within the 400-450 range, with the rare street champion Reese Beast in the 550-600+ range...

 

i was just trying to get a feel for how much power people advising the op not to mod his car were running at. i am well over 600 on my time attack car. if you have the extra money to burn for the mods, i don't see it being much of a problem as long as you try to drive smoothly.

 

I would say go to the track with stock power, stock suspension, and stret tires. This way you will get a perfect base line on the car and from the combination of nowt much power, factory suspension geometry, and street power you will more easily sorce out what you feel needs to be addressed when it comes to acurately modding the car into what feel is the best / fastest the car can be.

I have raced my car for three years on the same amount of power my car made a month after owning it. The car still to this day makes 350 to the wheels on a stock turbo, but through thoughtfully modding the car I have managed to drop 10 to 12 seconds a lap at every track since my first year.

 

Done that twice now. Just ordered more rotors. lol too broke for some big brakes.

My .02 is that 400whp is more than enough when matched with skill unless you're building to some race class, where you had better max out your power/weight ratio for competitiveness.

 

If you have to ask how much power you should run for your first track days....then you should buy some good brake pads and get to the track on stock power with an instructor. Simple as that.

Learning how to drive is the goal, not going fast.

Going fast comes naturally when you have some experience. Can't stress that enough....

 

All depends on the driver.

Done 4 HPDE at 305whp/310wtq on Mustang Dyno and plan on bumping up just a tad to 320whp/ and the most TQ I can make in TTB Spec for NASA Licensing.

Just depends on how comfortable you feel with your car, how light you have gotten it and your experience. I don't think I would feel comfortable in an evo over 400whp. Under that would be awesome!!!

 

^^^ What rotors did you order this time around? Maybe some 2-piece rotors and brake ducting could help out????

 

Unfortunatley the AMS team has not been able to run the car at full power sometimes this season due to mechanical issues. The driver said that less power was a blessing at times like Englishtown where they ran in the rain. Martin drove the car at one or so events last year and passed the wheel on to the pros--the car scared him!

IMHO even though they are a pain when not tracking a rollcage is a good first mod...

 

That's why I hardly use brakes

 

thanks again everyone for all your comments...i changed that list a little bit since i first made that post...

right now i have the following installed: HKS intake, hks hi power, megan o2, megan downpipe, megan resonated testpipe. ACT 2900 clutch w/ rre flywheel. im about to flash it with a Cobb AP stage 2 map in a couple of days

i have Nitto summer tires and i am saving money for some nice coilovers. i was thinking of Tein Super Street coils. i already have a set of StopTech track pads that i bought from RRE. i plan to get some SS lines soon, and i was wondering if slotted rotors are worth it? will it help cool the brakes at the expense of more brake pad wear?

in the summer i plan to get a custom tune w/ a Cobb tuner in Toronto. i have a walboro 255 fuel pump, injen uicp, ams licp that are coming. i plan to finish things off with a FMIC when i find a cheaper name brand used one lol

hey i was wondering if the Shearer and/or full race tubular manifold for the stock turbo is worth it?anybody have any experience?

what about the AMS intake manifold and/or Magnus manifold? is it worth it as well? w/ the ported TB?

i dont know if its overkill or not...i plan to get all bolt ons for the stock turbo, and upgrade to a cbrd bbk or a fp red, but the upgraded turbo will be the last thing i get...i think alot of people are doing this



since u guys gave great suggestions before!

 

SS lines are a nice add. Even more important would be fluid. I'd recommend Motul or AMSOIL Dot4 or SRF if you're going all out! The Motul I used for awhile but I couldget it hot and a squishy pedal whereas the AMSOIL left me with a more solid and repeatable pedal travel.

Slotted and drilled rotors are somewhat of a marketing thing. That's not to say there aren't slotted brands out there that don't work, but don't think just because they are slotted they are better.
I'd either go with a nice 2-piece set from like Girodisc (lots of people track these) or PF or Stoptech. Or hit up knsbrakes and get their stock replacement rotors for about 1/4 or 1/5 of the cost. You'll burn through them faster but not 4x as fast! I use them and they work great.
Your overall wear of the pads and rotors will really depend on your technique.

Wow, lots of power modification options. None of which will reduce your laptimes like a good set of coilovers. I'd worry about all that research first as it's a ton more subjective for most!

 

+100 to everyone who has told you to not worry about your car when you're just starting HPDEs.

I'm an instructor with various organizations, and I see it over and over where the "fastest" cars are being lapped by Miatas (when they even give a point-by), because the owners of those "fast" cars only know how to put their foot down on the straights.

Just run your Evo out of the box stock. You have plenty of power, grip, and even brakes for your first couple of times. Upgrade the brake fluid and maybe pads, and you're set.

Plus, it seems that the modified Evos and STIs end up sitting in the paddock broken anyway...

 

This is great advice!!!

I bought my car new on '06 and have been doing track days with it ever since. These cars factory will outhandle most modified vehicles just out of the box. My car was bone stock minus some MR bilstiens the first track day I attended. I learned it pushed hard, I melted the Hawk HP+ pads that were on it, boiled my brake fluid and went home. The next time down to the track, I had race pads, a rear sway bar and some Motul fluid. Hmm, now there's too much body roll, time to add coil overs...

Take it slow, don't change every part and expect to be the fastest guy. As previously mentioned, you're going to have to learn this car a little and determine what characteristics you don't like about the way it drives/handles and go from there.

My $.02

 

I went similar route. My first time, I just changed the pads from stock to DS2500’s. Next, I changed to SS lines and ATE blue. After that I went with Pagid yellow’s and RSB.
Around my 10th HPDE event, I went with coilovers and bushings. Early last year, I got me a set of Rcomps (Nt01’s); all of that and the motor was all stock except for an ECU flash.
Late last year, I did some of the power stuff; exhaust, filter, etc… Dynoed 344whp vs. high 2’s with just the flash. For my skill level, 344whp is a handful. I find myself lifting of the gas in turns where I used to go flatout. I also had to relearn everything all over again; braking points, lines etc…

 

Did I ever mention that my first ever autocross I got 3rd place and you know what?

my EVO was 100% FACTORY stock 22Xwhp, i beat m3 guys with race tires, and so many v8 guys/gals