So was that Saturday night then? I thought I remembered them saying that they were going to run the 3rd session then since the outlook for Sunday was so bad.

I got to run the car - totally stock except for 245-40-17 RE11s on the stock wheels and an alignment - at a test and tune on Sunday w/ Philly region. It was surprisingly fun, especially in the slaloms, but I definitely can't wait to get the coilovers on...

 

He broke the car on Friday during practice. All class competition runs were done on Saturday. Challenges were run on Sunday.

 

Hey guys,

Been hovering around this forum for awhile. Met most of you on Nasioc or National events - Geoff, Rick, John, Chris - hope everyone's season is going well. Had the 03 WRX for awhile then 06 STI now driving an STR S2000 and getting kicked around in that class.

Bought an 06 MR when I sold the W and been working on the STU build. I've only run it a few times at local stuff and pax'd at the top but I know it can be faster. I'm thinking I may run at least one of the CO events in STU and maybe the Packwood Pro. For CO Irish (won both the tour and pro in Lincoln) may co-drive with me.

Still picking up a rear wheel - using stock front bar, Perrin rear on soft. Any thoughts on limiting this?

Castor - I hear it's a big help. My Ohlins do not adjust castor. I think I have around 3.5 deg. Is it worth adding and if so what plate works well?

Downpipe - does the divorced O2 really make more power? running COBB stuff now but looking at the MAPerformance part.

Thanks for your thoughts - hope to see you at some events soon.
Kevin

 

Quick thoughts:

Wheel pick up - Stiffer front bar, $30 worth of cobalt bits and there is an easy 'how-to' on here and it made an incredible difference in mine...

Caster - CiroDesign (Rick Jung) has the right plates to fix, and YES it is worth fixing.

Downpipe - I have read a few places that there are some good ways to introduce boost creep... good and legal I mean.. seems as though the o2 housing is key.

Welcome back to STU.

 

I think a rear diff refresh/rebuild is still worth it for the STU guys - particularly TRE's STU rear diff upgrade. Any shop that's opened up the stock rear diff for a CT9A will tell you it wasn't properly assembled from the factory. Doing TRE's refresh will allow you to get some rotation on throttle, though it won't be as dramatic as the 12 plate maxx lock obviously.

Extremely worthwhile, though you should talk to Jon@TRE about it if you're interested

 

How so? What, specifically, is incorrect?
Incorrect when compared against the factory service manual? Or incorrect when compared against common practice?

Thanks!

-'chono'

 

chono - my understanding is that the factory assembly procedure is different than how the service manual states to order/place the plates. The TRE, or SHEP, etc STU legal builds are within factory tolerances, and rebuilt according to the service manual.

 

Cool! So I bring my manual and my diff to someone and say "do it like the manual says" and I get a better diff.

If it were 'common practice' then we'd have an issue..

-'chono'

 

I asked this in one of the other threads but if anyone can point me at the part of the FSM that discusses this I'd appreciate it

 

Thanks for your thoughts Brian. I intend to do the front bar for sure and I know Rick so I'll talk to him.

I'm suspicious of the rear diff rebuild - not that it couldn't be rebuilt to actually work - but that it can be done legally. Anyone call TRE and discuss?

Kevin

 

make that "someone" jon@tre and you will get a complete explanation and a much better diff

 

Feel free to laugh any protester who claims that doing something per the service manual is illegal.

 

TRE has 2 different rear diff re-builds, one for BSP, SM and road racers that changes the clutch plates to promote on power oversteer. The other is a STU specific rebuild which doesn't really change the clutch plates on the rear diff or do anything major. It just refreshes the rear diff/clutch plates and makes sure the tolerances for the clutch plates are a little tighter (making it STU legal). It's a minor difference if your rear diff is properly working and a major difference if your clutch plates are worn and your rear diff stopped working.

This is from my past conversations with him ....

 

Thanks for the information, I'll call Jon at TRE. My car only has 50K on it but when a rear wheel is lifted it spins up like an open diff.

Never replaced a diff. I assume you can do this via a core exchange? Is the mechanical stuff pretty straight forward?

KFS

 

Congrats Bassicfun on your win in Toledo this weekend! The balance of power in STU seems to be shifting back towards the Evo after the recent States Championships.