SS RX7 r2 I sent you a PM about these spacers, thinking about competing in A-stock this year with my car and I think it would help the balance of the car to have a slightly wider track in the front.

A-stock related question: For those running a similar setup since only cat-back exhausts are allowed is there a risk in putting one on or even just a muffler-delete pipe on without getting tuned?

Anyone running in the NY region? Hope to see some other Evos competing at the Coliseum.

Thanks,

 

Hey Scott,

i think I have a set of .25" spacers left.

No problem running a cat back or delete, even with a drop in air filter, as the evo runs rich. Also good idea to run a little higher octane to stay out of knock.

Rick

 

If you've got any left, how much for a pair of the spacers shipped to 11757? Would longer studs be necessary with the extra 1/4"? I'm sure its preferred but has anyone had any problems without them? Right now I'll just be using them with an old set of stock Advans on BBS's.

Is there a place to get the odd shaped 3-bolt flange for the stock muffler? It would seem simple enough to make my own delete pipe for cheap if that flange were available. Since I'll probably only be using it when I compete I don't need it to be top quality/fitment.

I can get 93 pump around here but should I look for more than that or maybe some octane booster additive? I know I've seen the additives discussed here before but have there been any that really work well?

 

Longer studs are always a good idea, but AFAIK if you're using steel nuts and get approx. 7 turns you should be good - at least of AX speeds.

Might try Buschur to see if they'll sell you the flange or buy their muffler delete, maybe find a used one?
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...products_id=69

93 should be ok in cooler temps, put a couple of gal. of race gas on warm days. I'm leary of oct boosters but I read a test where NOs brand worked the best.

I'll pm the spacer info.

Rick

 

I've run with the exhaust terminating at the axle before -- which is stock legal as long as you don't run into noise issues. I wouldn't plan to let the car sit idling for 10-20 minutes like that, but it didn't seem to cause any visible heat damage to anything when I did it.

The exhaust gas is basically about 30% carbon dioxide and about 10% water (steam), with most of the remaining 60% being unburnt nitrogen drawn through the engine. There are trace amounts of other things of course, like carbon monoxide and particulates -- it's the particulates like pure carbon (graphite) that cause the black "stain" around exhaust ports.

All of the exhaust gases are very hot and obviously will tend to rise when they exit and will come in contact with the underside of the car, but fortunately, the CO2 and the N2 are fairly inert with respect to anything they touch, even at high temperatures. The H2O might serve to steam clean some of the exposed surfaces it comes in contact with. Any condensation will likely drip away and evaporate rather than pooling, so rust shouldn't be an issue.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I'd like to get the Buschur pipe but I can't justify $160 for such a small piece, I know its stainless and probably really nice but it still seems like a bit much for something I could piece together with little effort. I guess for now I'll try what jbrennen said and just pull off the muffler when I get to the event and try not to asphyxiate myself in my own car

SS RX7 r2 I'll let you know about those spacers. I found a cheap set on eBay but I'm not sure I would trust them and I can't tell what the material is. They don't look to be anywhere near the quality of yours which look very nice BTW.

 

The Buschur is one of the lightest catbacks adn muffler deleate. Less weight= better power to weight.

 

Yea I've seen that before and when I do decide to buy an exhaust thats one of the reasons I'll be goin with Buschur I just dont think its worth it to buy the muffler delete instead of just saving up a little longer and going with the full catback.

 

I really wish Koni made an off the shelf damper for the Evo.

From what I've read in this thread an others, your only route for true performance struts/shocks only are either custom double adjustable Konis or the Ohlins Sport Suspension, both of which run around $2000.

I currently codrive a 350Z for autox and we were able to buy single adjustable (rebound only) Koni Yellows for only $600 and they work great.

 

$600 for a set of adjustable shocks from a reputable brand sounds too good to be true.

Does anyone know if there are there any other options for stock style shocks/struts adjustable or not for less $$$ than the Konis or Ohlins as mentioned above?

I had KYB AGX on my DSM which were super cheap but still got the job done and the single adjustment on them made very noticeable changes. I'd be willing to try something along these lines in the Evo.

 

I checked the price and they are actually $900. These are Koni Sport "Yellows" for the 350Z. These are very popular for autox, with fixed compression settings and adjustable rebound that has been shock dyno proven to be effective. What sucks is that there is no application for the Evo.


I have searched high and low, and right now those seem to be literally the only two options. I don't like the Ohlins because they adjust compression/rebound together. The Konis are nice but have to be custom made, meaning, you send your stock struts to a company like True Choice. I think a few Evo owners spend the extra money and get them double external adjustable, meaning separate for compression and rebound.


KYB does not make the AGX shock for the Evo unfortunately.

 

So how do we go about getting one of these manufacturers (Koni, KYB, or others) to start developing a shock for the Evo. Maybe if a bunch of people with evos showed interest and started writing in to these companies they might listen and start making a product. I dunno just a thought. I'm nowhere near prepared to spend even $1000+ on a set of shocks and don't plan on it anytime in the near future especially when there seems to be decent options out there for other cars.

 

Bilsteins and Ohlins make great aftermarket shocks for the EVO and are probably the only preformance gig in town. KYB makes the stock struts. SoloEvo (Devin) once had a set of Konis custom made but since the EVO isn't very competetive in A-Stock, he made the move to STU.

Ohlins shocks are usually very good and its not really bad thing to controlling both compression and rebound with the single adjuster as long as it is affecting certain areas of the dampening curve. There is ALWAYs some amoung of crosstalk on most shocks when either doing an adjustment for rebound or compression. But Ohlins aren't exactly cheap ... I'm not very fond of the KYB AGX series, unnecessarily harsh ...

Since most people just decide to go with coilovers, you guys may have a hard time convincing a manufacturer to develop a shock for the EVO, especially with the Bilstein HD and Ohlins shock being out in the market.

 

We ran our EVO X in stock form at an autocross once.... and once was enough!



The handling was surprisingly BAD with the stock dampers and springs. We had it aligned to -2.1° camber in front, but it still plowed like there was no tomorrow. I'm sure a good set of shocks made for Stock category could help a lot, as well as a massive front swaybar.



We've built custom AStock legal AST 4200RR shocks for Subaru STIs ('07 & '08 models) and WRX ('06), among other models, and could do the same for Mitsus if anyone wanted. We've done straight up 4100 & 4200 sets for Stock class cars, as well. Whenever we make coilover struts to utilize stock springs we have to make custom lower spring perches that work with threaded body coilovers (once locked in place, at the stock height, they are Stock legal), and its a pain.



In my opinion running in Stock class at the limit of the rules / at the top levels is more expensive than running a car fully prepped to STU rules, when you consider the tire budget. And driving a prepped STU car is a lot more fun, and feels more textbook neutral, than any Stock EVO. The problem is: Stock class cars can never get enough static negative camber, legally, and coupled with excessive body roll from uber soft factory springs they tend to shred front tires faster than any other category (exception: Super Stock, and some BStock cars like the RX8). Some of the GS Minis are barely getting a dozen runs from a set of Hoosiers, for example. That's... nuts.

No, you don't have to run $5000+ custom double adjustable monotubes with remote reservoirs and extra Nitrogen pressure (affects spring rate) shocks in Stock class.... but you can... and it works.

 

I have checked those out previous to this and believe me, I would be ALL OVER IT if I had the dough. Iam the guy that is out to prove that the EVO (I have an '06) can be a contender in AS and not just an also ran.

I have been currently running a set of revalved Bilsteins (from the MR) and doing fairly well. I consistently run in the top of PAX in my region, and even won the Wendover Prosolo this year besting multiple time national champ Scott McHugh (on a set of 60 run Kumho 710's) and other accomplishments........so if you need someone to help develop a winning setup for the evo, just let me know.
Btw, I dont have any problem with excessive front tire wear and I run only 2deg negative (all I can seem to get) in the front.